Opg install, Whats all required?

Mootang said:

So, after 2-3 discouraging and long OPG install weeks, I went ahead with an idea I had. Thanking [MENTION=20657]db252[/MENTION] for reenforcing my idea and I had a little more confidence going through with it. After hours of drilling, I decided that this was not going anywhere since there was still a lot of left over bolt still snapped in there. Here was the idea:

There is approximately 70mm non-threaded hole space before the bolt for the damper touches the crankshaft's threads. The original damper bolt is a M12 x 1.5 and the ~70mm hole has a 15mm diameter of space. I figured I can tap a M16 x 1.5 thread and get a 60mm length M16 x 1.5 grade 10.1 bolt and a few washers to install the damper. I ended up taping for an hour and then started my install again. It worked and the dampers looks correct. I know I am running a new bolt on top of the broken one, but screw it, I am closing up now lol. We try it to start it up tomorrow and hope that I am not off a tick on timing. Here are a few pics of the install:

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Balls of steel man. I hope it holds good for you and causes no more problems.

-Jeff

The best trick ever to install those oil pump bolts - it takes seconds literally. My wife's idea!

Wrap it around with a soft wire like copper, push with finger and pull the wire - works like a charm!

veeefour said:

The best trick ever to install those oil pump bolts - it takes seconds literally. My wife's idea!

Wrap it around with a soft wire like copper, push with finger and pull the wire - works like a charm!

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Dude never admit your wife's smarter than you mechanically:lol: Really though that ingenious

Plus she did it on her own,without any help!

Wow, now that's some women you got. Cheers to the wife's that support our hobby and passion

Here, good quality timing manual straight from Ford server.

Anyone in the Tucson PHX area do this themselves send me a pm!

Another good tip is use cell phone to take a picture of crank sprocket to validate passenger timing chain is on correctly. I got mine one tooth off because it looks different looking at it from the angle above.

I am using the pictorial thread on svtperformance ("MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install. **A FEW PICS**") and have a question regarding setting up the timing to remove the chains.

In that post it mentions 1. TURN OVER CRANKSHAFT UNTIL SLOTTED KEYWAY IS AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION then 2. VERIFY THAT ON TOP OF ALL 4 CAM SHAFTS THE DATA MATRIX'S ARE FACING UP. (IF NOT THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT 1 FULL ROTATION MORE).

I've tried rotating the crank several times and I cannot get more than 2 of the 4 data matrix's to face up. Is this a change on the S550's? I've read the Ford service manual for the timing chains and it makes no mention of the data matrixs, so I'm assuming as long as the keyway is at 12 o'clock I can proceed with the removal of the RH chain/tensioners etc?

Anyone notice this?

gtorpedo said:

I am using the pictorial thread on svtperformance ("MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install. **A FEW PICS**") and have a question regarding setting up the timing to remove the chains.

In that post it mentions 1. TURN OVER CRANKSHAFT UNTIL SLOTTED KEYWAY IS AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION then 2. VERIFY THAT ON TOP OF ALL 4 CAM SHAFTS THE DATA MATRIX'S ARE FACING UP. (IF NOT THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT 1 FULL ROTATION MORE).

I've tried rotating the crank several times and I cannot get more than 2 of the 4 data matrix's to face up. Is this a change on the S550's? I've read the Ford service manual for the timing chains and it makes no mention of the data matrixs, so I'm assuming as long as the keyway is at 12 o'clock I can proceed with the removal of the RH chain/tensioners etc?

Anyone notice this?

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I mean I haven't refired my car yet after completing my install, but here is what I found...

Data matrix's are not needed nor need to line up. You have a 1 in 2 chance of lining up the timing marks correctly when you put the key way at 12 oclock the first time. Looking at the front of the motor, the passenger side cam sprocket (RH side, technically) has 3 timing marks on it, only one of the marks has a "R" next to the mark. When you set the key way to 12 oclock, if that R| looking mark isn't in the top position, near the 10-11oclock position, then rotate the crank clockwise one more full rotation, and that R| symbol should now be in the 10-11 oclock position.

Once that step is completed successfully, all you have essentially done is create your own starting point with easy references, in the end each cam shaft on the passenger and driver side are timed by the number of links in each chain between the timing marks on each gear (count of links between R| and the | mark on the crank sprocket). When you first set that passenger side up, you're going to see 99% sure that the two blue timing links on the chain ARE NOT sitting on the timing marks on the cam sprocket nor on the timing chain gear on the crank. Doesn't matter tho, if you count the number of links center to center between the R| mark on the passenger side cam sprocket and the | timing mark on the crank sprocket, it will match the same link count if you found the two links on the chain (wherever they are currently sitting in their rotation) and counted the number of links between. This is why the timing procedure works, to start out you are just getting things in a good position so you can finish by putting the chain back on in the same position you took them off.

Hopefully that helps explain a bit. The SVT site attempted to use the data matrixs as a reference point to start out. You are just going to use the location of the timing marks on the cam sprockets.

gtorpedo said:

I am using the pictorial thread on svtperformance ("MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install. **A FEW PICS**") and have a question regarding setting up the timing to remove the chains.

In that post it mentions 1. TURN OVER CRANKSHAFT UNTIL SLOTTED KEYWAY IS AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION then 2. VERIFY THAT ON TOP OF ALL 4 CAM SHAFTS THE DATA MATRIX'S ARE FACING UP. (IF NOT THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT 1 FULL ROTATION MORE).

I've tried rotating the crank several times and I cannot get more than 2 of the 4 data matrix's to face up. Is this a change on the S550's? I've read the Ford service manual for the timing chains and it makes no mention of the data matrixs, so I'm assuming as long as the keyway is at 12 o'clock I can proceed with the removal of the RH chain/tensioners etc?

Anyone notice this?

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Timing on the 2015+ is different than previous coyotes. That guide is written for a 2011-2014.

Correct timing procedure:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39249

I am also not 100% sure, but I believe the reason that R| mark needs to be in that position (versus just starting out with the crank key in the 12 oclock position and just moving ahead without the R| in the right spot) is where the cam is located and what valves are being acted on. If you were to remove the tension on the cam sprocket and there was a certain number of valves partially open, once tension was released the cam would want to move to release the pressure, which would result in the cam being out of time. The 12 oclock position of the key way plus having the R| mark at the 10-11 oclock position, the cam doesn't budge, so clearly this was thought out in the assembly of the motor. Same with the driver side, rotating to the 5 oclock position sets the cams in a position so that when tension is removed there isn't force from the valve springs wanting to rotate the cams.

Have any of you guys done this on a voodoo? Or familiar with anyone in the northeast arkansas area that does? Curious of the differences...so far it seems more tricky and idk if i want to learn on this particular engine:cheers:

jvandy50 said:

Have any of you guys done this on a voodoo? Or familiar with anyone in the northeast arkansas area that does? Curious of the differences...so far it seems more tricky and idk if i want to learn on this particular engine:cheers:

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I have a voodoo engine that I’ll be tearing down in a week or 2. I’ll let you know how it comes apart. It should be easier than a GT as you don’t have to mess with the oil pickup bolts. The GT350 pickup is sealed on an oring only.

tsloms said:

I have a voodoo engine that I’ll be tearing down in a week or 2. I’ll let you know how it comes apart. It should be easier than a GT as you don’t have to mess with the oil pickup bolts. The GT350 pickup is sealed on an oring only.

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Oh man, i’d love to hear what ya think. I’ve just read an argument on whether or not you hafta lower K member/raise engine...and i got scared. Tells me not too many have done it. And not to clog up the 5.0 section, but i had a 16 GTPP and the folks would be on standby to help during this process...ask in the 350 section and you get posts about why you should leave it alone lol.

The only difference i know of is the pickup tube has to be slipped out, as opposed to unbolted in the coyote, creating the need for more room...other than that, I haven’t found much else