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ScottM_FL

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I made the parts exactly .50" including the tape. I used your picture to estimate the correct angle and printed the prototypes at 19.5 degrees. Tape discs do not arrive for a week so I should have the windscreen by then.
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Indylatenight

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I think that his point is that the existing windscreen options are unreasonably expensive for what you get. It's not necessarily all LTD's fault as Ford didn't include an integrated option like BMW, Audi, and others include. But for $300 less you get a unit that folds in half and fits in the back section of the trunk so it doesn't take up as much space, includes a storage bag to protect the screen, and installs/removes in less than 5 seconds. The only downside is that you have to be willing to drill holes in your beloved mustang. I think that we are all celebrating the fact that there is another option and stressing the fact that no matter what option you choose, a windscreen is a must to really enjoy your convertible, regardless of how much you spend!

My next goals are to: disable the speed restriction for top movement and to get the a/c seats to actually feel like a/c seats.
I fully get what both you and he are saying. And I agree that a windscreen is a must. What I am saying is all the points being made are not taking into consideration that you do indeed have to drill holes to mount that option. I would never drill into my mustang. And if I was shopping for a used mustang, I would pass on any vehicle that had holes drilled into it. The cost of replacing the side panels (assuming that you did not want a windscreen) would definitely overshadow any savings you got when you choose the cheaper option. The LTD option can be unsnapped in a few seconds and stores well in the trunk. But to each his own and whatever you decided is best for you then I say go for it and enjoy your car. Just no holes for me! :cheers:
 

ScottM_FL

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Well let's see how these plastic fittings hold up in the Florida heat and at highway speeds, might be another option.

Aggie96, I hope you figure out how to defeat the top operation speed sensor. On my SN-95 I added a momentary switch next to the top switch that closed the ebrake circuit, worked like a charm. After my SN-95 I bought an SLK 350 and missed being able to put the top up if it started to sprinkle or as I was coasting into my parking space. I ended up adding a SmartTop module and I was extremely pleased with it. They make one for the Mustang and if I save $300 before you come up with a solution I will be putting one in my S550 too. http://www.mods4cars.com/sms/shop/i...JyPTI=&action=products&cat=6&mode=view&id=166
 
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MX5Racer

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Well let's see how these plastic fittings hold up in the Florida heat and at highway speeds, might be another option.

Aggie96, I hope you figure out how to defeat the top operation speed sensor. On my SN-95 I added a momentary switch next to the top switch that closed the ebrake circuit, worked like a charm. After my SN-95 I bought an SLK 350 and missed being able to put the top up if it started to sprinkle or as I was coasting into my parking space. I ended up adding a SmarTop module and I was extremely pleased with it. They make one for the Mustang and if I save $300 before you come up with a solution I will be putting one in my S550 too.
That SmarTop looks like the way to go! and with the added bonus of always starting in Sport+ mode is the clincher!
 

MaxHedrm

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I ended up adding a SmarTop module and I was extremely pleased with it. They make one for the Mustang and if I save $300 before you come up with a solution I will be putting one in my S550 too.
Definitely something to check out!
 

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sdiver68

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I did mine today. Instead of drilling 7/16ths I drilled 9/16ths and used a rubber grommet ID 7/16ths Groove 9/16ths OD 3/4". Ace hardware part # 55058-H.

The hole looks factory, IMHO. I'll get a better pic of the hole tomorrow outside. Tested it to 80mph worked great.

2orsO8Q1q4jGr29rGSfbxkGlqTfO7KWvrj3xXlZRxhH-sx_sKR4SlrTCpDLmP9BD-TKw0v75lennZ4x08hNr0VeJ0g=w2400.jpg

CV7BxcGXzF9jdj5jo_UiX0p4qig-fOSRpy6nWTMAo5B8gqfLxHzNs6RcqCfvzFnprZo7BMmHbV2FnqE-ExI9TyW3iQ=w2400.jpg
 
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ScottM_FL

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Sdiver68, Great job! That does look factory. I thought about using rubber grommets after reading Aggie96's original post. I found some on McMaster-Carr but I like your Ace part idea better, easier to get. I received my windscreen yesterday but it came from a home with smokers and stinky animals so now I am trying to get the smell to a point I will put it in my car. The temporary tape I used on my prototype clips was not strong enough to hold the windscreen up so I am going to try some different tape. I will go out today and grab a couple of those grommets if one of my local Ace stores have them. It looks like you put the seatbelt inside the clip rather than just resting the open clip on it, is that correct? Could you take a tape measure and provide the dimensions to the center of the holes from a couple of trim edges? Again, great job and thank you again to Aggie96 for letting us know about this alternative.
Scott
 
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Aggie96

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Wow! That looks better than I imagined. Thanks for the investigative work. I'm going to my local Ace to get those!

Mark

I did mine today. Instead of drilling 7/16ths I drilled 9/16ths and used a rubber grommet ID 7/16ths Groove 9/16ths OD 3/4". Ace hardware part # 55058-H.

The hole looks factory, IMHO. I'll get a better pic of the hole tomorrow outside. Tested it to 80mph worked great.

2orsO8Q1q4jGr29rGSfbxkGlqTfO7KWvrj3xXlZRxhH-sx_sKR4SlrTCpDLmP9BD-TKw0v75lennZ4x08hNr0VeJ0g=w2400.jpg

CV7BxcGXzF9jdj5jo_UiX0p4qig-fOSRpy6nWTMAo5B8gqfLxHzNs6RcqCfvzFnprZo7BMmHbV2FnqE-ExI9TyW3iQ=w2400.jpg
 

sdiver68

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Picture with screen out.

All the credit to Aggie96, mine is just a minor contribution.
20180722_084746.jpg
 

sdiver68

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And my measurements...1.125-1.25" from the panel seam right above and 2.125-2.25" at an angle from the bottom edge of the seatbelt opening...roughly. As always, measure 3 times cut once.

Use painters tape to get your holes marked, test fit and then drill right through it when happy. I also wrapped my drill bit in tape to act as a stop about 1/2" down to prevent the bit from going any further than through the outer trim. Put a towel down on the seat to catch small plastic shavings.

20180722_100146.jpg
 
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ScottM_FL

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Sdiver68,
Thanks again. I went into my local Ace Hardware store and they did not have any grommets with numbers like the 55058-H. I ended up grabbing one with similar dimensions, Do you remember what the panel thickness measurement was on yours?
Going out to layout the hole locations now.
Scott
magnifier_20180722_111959.png
 

ScottM_FL

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Looks identical, just the part numbers are different. I located the hole locations at the 1.25 & 2.25 dimensions (Update: I actually set the holes at 1.13" and 2.13"). Seems to fit pretty well without too much squeeze on the rear seats and room for the front seat in the easy exit position with about 1.5" to spare.
Thanks again for laying it out for us, future S550 Vert owners will thank you too. I think I am going to try one more prototype of the stick on fittings, this time using some 3M 4929 tape I have just to see if it works. I need to get a .5625" drill bit anyway, thought I had one, then I will be ready to drill and put the grommets in.
Scott

Update: The 3M 4929 tape I had was no better than the temporary tape I used and did not have the sheer strength required to overcome the spring force and weight of the windscreen. Since I had not received the 3M 9080 tape yet I decided to abandon the stick on idea and drill some holes for the grommets.

sdiver68, your car must be different than mine. I did a fit check with the dimensions provided for the hole locations and at first blush I though they were going to be fine. The first thing I found after cutting the holes was that the panel thickness is more like .125-.130" and a grommet with a .0625" groove is not going to fit onto that thickness, how did you get the grommet to fit? The second thing I found after fit checking the windscreen was that there was way too much pressure on the rear seats. After a short drive there was a noticeable impression in the divider section between the seats. Two 9/16" holes and what to do next. First thing I did is order some 9/16" plugs (I have 50 of them in case anybody else needs a couple, PM me). I then started thinking about how to offset the hole about an inch forward. A co-worker gave me a couple of top hat bushings with an OD of .625". These fit the holes well and allowed me to use a 3/8-16 screw to attach another 3D printed fitting to achieve the offset. This put the wind screen in a much better location but gravity was still not my friend and was trying to rotate the fittings down. I tried some more of the 3M 4929 tape behind the plastic fitting but this stuff just does not stick to these side panels. I took the fittings off and plugged the holes. I took some of the 3M 9080 tape that had finally arrived and attached it to an earlier version of the fitting I made to be a stick on. I put the fittings roughly where I thought they should be and they seem to be holding for now.
Audi_WS_Offset_Fitting.jpg
Audi_WS_Stick-On_Fitting.jpg


Update 2: My wife just returned from the store with the windscreen on the back seat, 3M 9080 was not the answer for the stick on solution. Just ordered some 3M VHB 5915 we will see how it does next weekend.

Update 3: I went to Office Depot and purchased some heavy duty 3M adhesive pads. I attached them at the store after cleaning both the plastic fitting and door panel with alcohol. The plastic fittings came loose before we hit the first stop light. When we returned home I cleaned off the adhesive strip material and this time I primed both the fitting and the door panel with the 3M #94 adhesion promoter I received with the front air dam material I had ordered. I let the primer set up for 5 minutes before attaching them. After going to get gas the fittings and windscreen were still attached but by the following morning one of the fittings had come off and the other one came off with minimal force. So it looks like adhesive tape is not going to hold. A strong liquid adhesive might but it looks like the holes are the best solution. I like the last location I had the fittings so I may bump them up a hair and drill some 7/16" holes there.

Final Update: I could not get any adhesive to stick well enough to not move when the wind screen was installed. After my last failed attempt I went to Ace and bought some 8-32 hardware ($2.00) and secured my fittings that way. I bought some 1/2" pipe insulation from Lowes ($1.00) and placed two pieces on the seams of the back seats. With the foam I do not need to use the open seat belt clips on the wind screen, just the two foam locations seem to support the wind screen well. Sits flush, looks good, and works perfect. Thanks again for all the input and feedback, on to the next project. BTW: When I opened up the top cover I noticed Sdiver68's hole location is inline with one of the side panel clip stand off features so if you use his dimensions be careful not to go any deeper than the panel thickness.
AudiA4_Windscreen_Final.jpg
 
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Aggie96

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This is most likely the same item at Lowe's. It appears to have the same dimensions and it is also made by Hillman. Just in case you don't have an Ace nearby. I bought it but of course forgot to check if I had a 9/16" drill bit until I got home, so I will have to wait another day to drill out my 7/16 hole to 9/16 to install the grommets.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Pack-0-75-in-Rubber-Grommet/3013204
 
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Aggie96

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Lol, my laziness got the best of me (the very reason why i upgraded from an old BMW e36 to the S550). After seeing the SmarTop and all that it could do, I figured that would be even better than trying to hack the system myself. I like the idea of the top automatically retracting as soon as I unlatch it and not having to hold a button down. It will be here at the end of the week and I will post back on a new thread as soon as I get it installed.

Definitely something to check out!
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