Most of these retards have no business owning a high horsepower car. Furthermore, if you driving experience is limited, and you decide to buy this type of vehicles, a high performance driving course should be mandatory. JMO.
Best guess, 8.5 or 9 32nds. There were a couple of track days plus a couple thousand street miles on them at the time.
Although I didn't have any datalogging at the time, I did notice that camera shake was beginning somewhere in the one-teens (about 12:20) but the car still felt stuck down pretty good. Wasn't even a cause for seat-puckering at around 11:00, plenty of grip for braking and maneuvering.
Makes sense. Obviously with half that much tread depth or with more water depth from wear ruts or puddles on typical highways hydroplaning is always a risk even without significant throttle application.
Unhinged = soft and cruiser-ey. I think the level of damping alone is something that could've addressed much of it, but there's also quite a bit in the rear subframe wobbling around under power.
So was holding up the roof by a passenger during a hot lap (around 3:38). Same person, maybe . . . maybe related to the driver who couldn't just throw the run away after spinning to a full stop on course.
It didn't look like a real autox. No corner workers and the cones looked like the wrong type. Probably an amateur effort gone wrong.
I'm the OP and today I under similar but dry conditions the car did the same thing in "Normal" mode. While on the highway it downshifted and hit 3-4K RPM infractions of a second.
That's the way I read it. I can see where it could become easy for a driver to assume that they've got his six no matter what the conditions are or what silliness the driver is attempting. Plus, the driver normally isn't allowed to learn the difference in car feel as it gets up near the limits, some sport modes perhaps excepted, so he won't even know how close he might be getting to blowing clear through his own limits or even beyond what the nannies can correct for.
The solution I use with my 18 GT PP is very small throttle movement if I don't want the trans to downshift more than 1 gear if any. I don't know if this applies in your case but I found years ago it helps to avoid shoes with thick soles for even normal driving because it is hard to feel the pedals. However, I've been driving V8 Mustangs with manual and automatic transmissions in "slippery" (wet and/or snow and ice) conditions since 1969.
What you're suggesting is exactly correct . . . and both of those tips are alien to the way cars with automatic transmissions are generally driven. You're actually asking the AT driver to adopt (or retain) some of the mental aspects of MT driving.
I couldn't find where you might have mentioned your specific engineering discipline, but whatever it might be I think spending some time thinking about "friction circle" concepts might help. Friction ellipse may be more accurate technically, but the basic idea is that the vector sum of lateral and longitudinal accelerations cannot exceed some certain value (one or both ends of the car will lose grip and start to slide outward instead, maybe violently so).