2017 Blk/Blk Base Gt Procharger F1A Build...

Bull Run said:

Did you happen to weigh them before the install? Any noticeable acceleration hit due to increased mass?

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No unfortunately I didn’t weight them (or anything for some unknown reason lol) before install, but they were heavier than the stockers for sure. I think my buddy said they add 10lbs per side. No noticeable difference in acceleration after adding them, but I’m making around 1000whp.

I noticed a bit of oil on my driver side coil cover coming from my breather filter so I decided after 5k miles I should clean them. While I was at it, I figured I should try to remove the check valve in my passenger side breather to help with venting. Grabbed some pliers, a flathead, hammer and went to work...one strike blew out the entire check valve! Cleaned it with brake klean and popped it back on. Washed the filters with hot soapy water, air dried, blew some compressed air thru and tossed them back on. Looks good as new and should help vent crankcase pressure from both sides!

Also I couldn’t take the mess in my glove box anymore so I rearranged the meth electronics and put them in my upper owners manual compartment. Looks way better now

Decided to test my tank yesterday to see what % e they are giving me out of the pump for $2.49/gal and I was pleasantly surprised to see 85-86% ethanol!

Looking awesome! Got the meth kit installed.

You're running E85 and meth together? I wondered about that combo since it's not done often.

The IATs read with the VMP sensor are much different than the MAF. Mine is mounted in my intake pipe before the throttle body and it reads below ambient all the time, which is impossible lol. Understandable though that you're seeing higher IATs post-throttle body since when the blade is closed there's not much air circulation going on in there.

ahl395 said:

Looking awesome! Got the meth kit installed.

You're running E85 and meth together? I wondered about that combo since it's not done often.

The IATs read with the VMP sensor are much different than the MAF. Mine is mounted in my intake pipe before the throttle body and it reads below ambient all the time, which is impossible lol. Understandable though that you're seeing higher IATs post-throttle body since when the blade is closed there's not much air circulation going on in there.

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Thanks brotha! I took my time and installed the kit during the week hitting it a few hours at a time, which was nice for a change.

Yea I’m running e85 with meth so my car is drinking some seriously cold octane lol.

I figured the iats would read differently being in the mani, especially while cruising/idling, but it should give me the most accurate post meth iat reading when wot. My new tune is actually utilizing those iat readings to add/remove timing and that’s where Jon recommended me to run it. Now it’s time to go the track and see what it does!

So did you go to the track yet?

I kid I kid. Great build. Makes me feel like a slacker.

Haven’t done anything but drive the car for the last month or so and finally wanted to get some more air to the blower. I was looking at Green Filters since they always made more power over k&n on CtsV’s and then my buddy found the ultimate 4” setup! He found a flat and wide rubber coupler that’s 4” on both sides for about $25. We added a foot of 4” aluminum pipe to attach the filter and he had a 4x 12” filter at his house. It took some trimming on the new 4” blower inlet coupled, but it really fits perfect in the small space, even with the red race valve. Total cost was about $80 to build the complete 4” setup.

We actually found the Procharger filter that came with the kit was collapsing on one side from suction so we definitely had some restriction on the inlet. On the way home I noticed the car is more responsive to throttle input (even at slow speed) and you can hear the intake “sucking” way more at part throttle. Wot it hits faster and pulls harder!! This car is ridiculous!

I’m headed to a grudge racing event at the track tonitght so I’ll be able to get some new et/mph with the 50/50 meth, 4” intake and hopefully make some money lol.

After 7k miles since the build/blower, 5 trips to the track and beating up the streets of Mexico I decided to do a compression test to see how the motor is doing. Surprising enough all plugs look good, gap was still on point and all cylinders were between 215-220 after 4 compression strokes!

With good tuning and proper care/maintence these motors seem to stay healthy even at higher power levels.

Yes I know the cylinder numbers aren’t correct lol.

Well I finally took the training wheels off the blower and changed pullies today! Temps are climbing up so we are down on power a bit. Figured might as well add a pound or two of boost lol. Plenty of fuel already with the additional meth/water so the ecu will just trim less.

Also my new continential extreme sports showed up today to replace the factory pirellis on the performance pack wheels up front. Going to swap the rears this fall too so I can roll around in the rain trouble free next winter.

Awesome!

Sorry if I missed it, are you on stock motor still??

ahl395 said:

Awesome!

Sorry if I missed it, are you on stock motor still??

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Yea stock motor with Mmr billet oil pump and timing gears.

BlownOne said:

Yea stock motor with Mmr billet oil pump and timing gears.

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Damn, that's impressive.

Well last night at the track we finally figured out where all my power went. After going over everything on the car I thought we had it back on point, but after a full pass (and losing $200) the car only went as fast as it did last time out and I pullied down!! We popped the hood and started looking for possible belt slip or potiental isssues. My good buddy (and crew chief) started thinking where we could be losing boost from and somehow thought my blow off valve could have a vacuum leak. He poppped off the vacuum hose and the valve closed! He had me blow through the other end and sure as shit I blew right out the valve! At that point he knew it had a bad diaphragm so we decided to attempt to fix it trackside.

He had his sons small (15 piece) harbor freight “play” tool set in his truck and he was able to use a flathead screwdriver to remove the allen bolts that hold the top of the valve on. We removed the valves top, started looking over the diaphragm with flashlights (it was already dark outside) and it was torn in several places! At that point we tried to think of what we could use to put more pressure on the spring and he came up with a crazy idea to get some quarters to put between the inside of the valve top and the bov spring to lock it down to seal it as best as we could. Unbelievably one of only two wrenches that were in the tool kit was the correct size for the nut that adjusts tension on the spring! He locked it down, I attempted to blow through the vacuum line and it was much harder so we put everything back together and got one last pass in! Picked up 5mph and .5et from the previous pass and everything on the slip was back in line with what we should be seeing!!

After about a month of not knowing where 100+hp was missing from and multiple troubleshooting attempts at diagnosing the issue, my buddy found and fixed the issue with his sons play tool set, in the dark, on a time crunch, before the track closed! He is the real deal MacGyver and I’m glad he’s on my team! I’ll get your cash back next time out buddy!

So anyone with Procharger’s red race valve should just replace the diaphragm every year or two as a maintenance since it’s definitly a wear item. It’s $40 which is pricey for a $2.00 gasket lol, but you will have a massive boost leak once it no longer seals. Very easy to do as it only takes a few minutes to remove the top section of the valve and the nylock nut that holds the diaphragm.

BlownOne said:

Santa stopped by the house yesterday and brought me my gift early! Forgestar F14 Drag Edition 17” in matte black with 325/45/17 M&H Racemaster steamrollers. Can’t wait to get them mounted/balanced and hit the track!!

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Nice set up, what width are the wheels and what offset? Thanks!