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BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

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Wriggly

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The Polaris Slingshot had a similar problem. The rear axle nut would come loose causing weird clicking and creaking noises. The nuts on the Slingshot was spec'd at 250ft lbs. even at that amount of torque they would come loose. The threads about the problem on the Slingshot forums sounded just like this thread. For a moment in fact I thought I was on the wrong forum. The engineers over at Polaris in all their freaking brilliance came up with a double nut system to try and correct the issue. About the time the rear swing arms started cracking and breaking I sold the POS. Just like the 2013 and 2015 Mustangs I owned.

I must be a glutton for punishment. Now I have a GT350.

One thing needs to be mentioned. All the really good old time proven engineers are either dead or retired. Today's current crop of engineers are young pups that are led around by the rings in their collective noses by the number crunchers that limit their budgets so much they have to source a lot of their parts from China. Yep, China, the land of crap steel and other garbage they've been pawning off on us unsuspecting Amerikans for years now. Kinda like that Getjunk, I mean Getrag transmission.
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TexasRebel

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The Polaris Slingshot had a similar problem. The rear axle nut would come loose causing weird clicking and creaking noises. The nuts on the Slingshot was spec'd at 250ft lbs. even at that amount of torque they would come loose. The threads about the problem on the Slingshot forums sounded just like this thread. For a moment in fact I thought I was on the wrong forum. The engineers over at Polaris in all their freaking brilliance came up with a double nut system to try and correct the issue. About the time the rear swing arms started cracking and breaking I sold the POS. Just like the 2013 and 2015 Mustangs I owned.

I must be a glutton for punishment. Now I have a GT350.

One thing needs to be mentioned. All the really good old time proven engineers are either dead or retired. Today's current crop of engineers are young pups that are led around by the rings in their collective noses by the number crunchers that limit their budgets so much they have to source a lot of their parts from China. Yep, China, the land of crap steel and other garbage they've been pawning off on us unsuspecting Amerikans for years now. Kinda like that Getjunk, I mean Getrag transmission.
Let's not put any blame on the people that think quality costs too much.
 

15gtRob

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Just wanted to throw this out in public for people to see.

Seems as if several people are already providing some feedback on this very thing.

I figured it should be posted, since I seriously deal with this issue every week.
Kelly are you Daily Driving that car? What would you estimate the mileage is before having to re-torque?
 
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BMR Tech

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Kelly are you Daily Driving that car? What would you estimate the mileage is before having to re-torque?
I have never re-torqued mine.

I put 22K miles in exactly one year on my Gforce halfshafts in my 2016.
 

moffetts

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I am hearing that distinctive "clinking" sound again. I have lost track of how many times I have messed with this; at least two of the hubs have been repolaced entirely, possibly three.
 

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I've got a clicking sound when I get on the brakes for the first time after a change in direction. If I back out, drive away and then tap the brake, I can hear a click/pop. Same if I've been driving forwards and then go back into a spot. Click when applying the brake. Not sure if this is related.
 

TexasRebel

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I've got a clicking sound when I get on the brakes for the first time after a change in direction. If I back out, drive away and then tap the brake, I can hear a click/pop. Same if I've been driving forwards and then go back into a spot. Click when applying the brake. Not sure if this is related.
That might just be the pads shifting
 

BmacIL

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natepcbfl

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It's the axle nuts. Mine won't stay tight to save my life, locktite, my big ass tqing them using a 2' breaker, etc. Just going to be a routine thing for me...
Ford swapped one of my axles and hub under warranty. No noise since.
 

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ctandc72

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The Polaris Slingshot had a similar problem. The rear axle nut would come loose causing weird clicking and creaking noises. The nuts on the Slingshot was spec'd at 250ft lbs. even at that amount of torque they would come loose. The threads about the problem on the Slingshot forums sounded just like this thread. For a moment in fact I thought I was on the wrong forum. The engineers over at Polaris in all their freaking brilliance came up with a double nut system to try and correct the issue. About the time the rear swing arms started cracking and breaking I sold the POS. Just like the 2013 and 2015 Mustangs I owned.

I must be a glutton for punishment. Now I have a GT350.

One thing needs to be mentioned. All the really good old time proven engineers are either dead or retired. Today's current crop of engineers are young pups that are led around by the rings in their collective noses by the number crunchers that limit their budgets so much they have to source a lot of their parts from China. Yep, China, the land of crap steel and other garbage they've been pawning off on us unsuspecting Amerikans for years now. Kinda like that Getjunk, I mean Getrag transmission.
Well any engineer that wants to work at any automotive company has to deal with bean counters. That's coming from acquaintances who have worked for BMW, Mercedes, Ford, GM and Toyota.

20 cents for a better quality widget seems like no big deal - until you multiply that 20 cents by a few millions vehicles.

Mass produced vehicles are named that for a reason. Want that much better quality? How does $50K for a base model Mustang sound?

I cut my teeth working on domestic stuff from the 50's, 60's and 70's. God Forbid you talk about the 80's. While styling is one thing.....Quality control on the cheapest econobox now is LIGHT YEARS ahead of anything from back then.

"They don't make 'em like they used to." - AMEN. I miss the looks - but I don't miss adjusting solid lifters every other day, setting points, adjusting carbs based on the weather / altitude, cork gaskets, drum non powered brakes, body bushings turning to dust in a few years, quarter panels rusting from the inside out....I could go on.
 

Darkhelmet22

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I guess I'm a bit late to the party but here it goes...

I had the standard clicking popping noise like most of you and found the LR axle nut was loose (about 1/4 turn). After driving the car a few days with the windows down I found I could hear a wa wa wa sound coming from the LR wheel when I would load that bearing on a sweeping right turn. I went ahead and replaced the hub assembly and nut and torqued it to 98lbs and then 45 degrees after that. Shame on me but I didn't use loctite, however I did mark the nut so i could see if it comes loose. The bearing had no play I could feel by hand but the noise was definaly resolved by replacing the bearing/hub assembly. I think maybe for some of you all replacing the bearing/hub would be a good idea. The part is only $60 and is relatively easy to get out. A word of warning, if you have limited access to tools or don't have a ton of experience removing the axle from the hub can be challenging. I found the best way in an air hammer with a pointed bit works the best. Car feels really tight after the repair and I plan on replacing the right side bearing and nut in the near future. I also find it funny they don't use a castle nut or a staked nut. I'm a Lexus tech and every single axle nut on our cars are staked or have a cotter pin. Same goes for Toyota... Mine is a 2015 PP car with 18k miles. No track time or anything, all street miles.
 

ronemca

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For what it's worth, I tightened my original axle/spindle nut and applied loctite. The noise went away briefly and then came back minutes later. Today I replaced the nut with the aforementioned one in this thread. Applied loctite, let it sit, retqorqued and made sure it was at 150ft lbs. The noise disappeared and then came back a few hours later. I'm at a loss here. I'll take any suggestions. The wheel bearing was tight and had no issues.
You let the threadlocker cure and then re-torqued? If you got ANY movement on the re-torque it's likely that you defeated the hold of the threadlocker.

$0.02
 

ronemca

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Several people have asked for the socket size and several people have replied with "32mm". However, in post #79, our friend Nate said...
<snip>Used a 1&1/4" to take the old one off and a 31mm to put the new one on.
Was this a typo, Nate? or is it possible there are different hex sizes out there(?)
 

Bartly

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Several people have asked for the socket size and several people have replied with "32mm". However, in post #79, our friend Nate said...Was this a typo, Nate? or is it possible there are different hex sizes out there(?)

Hope he answers, but here is my guess. Having never done this I can only guess the metric 31mm fits slightly tighter. 31mm is only 1/32" smaller than 1 1/4", so in SAE it would be a 1 7/32" socket which is pretty non standard unless your a master tool collector. Lots of time I switch back and forth between metric and standard as one usually fits tighter if I'm fighting a stubborn bolt. I haven't kept up with this posting has anyone mentioned what the thread size is, that would tell you if the factory wanted an SAE or metric socket on it.
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