I feel so bad for you lol. We were all there for this suspension work.Immediately after installing the Steeda Progressive Springs, I noticed I was getting a slight buh buh buh noise in the front end over any road imperfections or bumps. I started thinking- "well, crap... how did I mess this up?"
So I hit up [MENTION=10893]David@Steeda[/MENTION] to see what I did wrong. After a short phone chat- he knew exactly what I messed up. I had not torqued the top strut nut to specification after installing the spring. :frusty: I knew better than that... ugh.
HUGE Thank you [MENTION=10893]David@Steeda[/MENTION] . Not only did he get back to me fast, but was awesome to work with and was non-judgemental. His only concern was to assist me in fixing the issue. Kudos on the awesome customer service!!! I thank you so much
Now, at the top of the strut you need to hold the center shaft while tightening the strut nut with a torque wrench. Easier said than done LOL. I went searching online and could not find a 21mm strut socket. Yes, they make such a thing. I did not know this. I got a few search results, but they weren't available, or rarely available in that size. Oh there were some for other sizes, and I saw reference to BMW models for many of them. But finding the 21mm- no dice at that time. BUT- What I did see was a picture of the tool... Not complicated but also not available.
So rather than take it to a shop, I wanted to tackle this. So with the online images studied, I decided to make the tool. Beware the below pics aren't pretty... I clearly am not a metal worker, have no high end shop tools, no lathe, etc... LOL. But, here's what I did.
Went to Harbor Freight. (Figured if I am going to purposely tear up a good socket, might as well not spend a bunch of dough) I bought a deep well impact 21mm socket. Took my trusty dremmel tool with heavy duty cut off wheel and cut a window into the side of the socket.
I had to adjust a couple of times, because I needed to make sure:
a) I could get the 10mm wrench inside to hold the strut shaft top
b) I could actually turn both and get enough leverage to torque the outside.
This resulted in roughly a little more than half of the body side to side. This is a balance because you don't want to weaken the body so you can actually torque to specification (76ft/lbs I believe, thats the torque spec on the following thread see this post but I don't have a shop manual to confirm. So, proceed at your own risk) And positioned up/down with enough to again get the 10mm wrench on the shaft and hold the shaft.
Yes I found this thread and it discusses a couple of other Harbor Freight tools that may get it done, and an electric impact gun.
For better or worse, I did this and it worked perfectly. It only took a couple of minutes to torque the nuts and have a sound free front end again.
Did I take the harder, longer way?? I dunno?? But, this was the path I took. It worked. It ain't pretty. :tsk: I have no shame
Well maybe a little. :doh:
