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Idle drop at a stop - cool feature

MaxHedrm

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This is something I hadn't seen anyone mention. Have a 2018 GT PP Manual. When I'm stopped, in gear, clutch in, foot on the brake my idle is something around 620-640. Let off the brake it jumps about 100 to 740. Foot back on the brake it goes back down.

Looks like a tiny little fuel saving measure. Drop it down when they know you're not about to go, then bump it up a smidge to improve drive-ability. I can't imagine it saves much, but it must be enough to make it worth it.
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TruBlu16GT

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Any car with power brakes will do that. It's not a feature.
 
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MaxHedrm

MaxHedrm

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I don't recall any of my 4 other Manual trans cars doing that and they all had power brakes. But perhaps the brake booster on the Mustang is just an inefficient beast. It isn't still vacuum driven is it?
 

texasboy21

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Why do you have the clutch in while stopped?
 

soldier989

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Clutch pedal being depressed while idling is putting unnecessary wear on the clutch and throw out bearing. Weigh your options between saving that tiny bit of gas or possibly needing parts replaced prematurely.
 

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Mike's Mustang

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Pretty sure mine only starts upping the rpm when starting to release the clutch. Otherwise it hovers around 650. How far in are you holding the clutch?

I agree with others though. When fully stopped you should have it in neutral with foot off the clutch. Unless you know you'll be going again within a few seconds.
 

texasboy21

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What happens if you put the car in neutral while stopped and you get rear ended?
Youll get rear ended..

Hopefully your foot will be on the brake pedal so minimize the damage of the car in front of you.

What will having the car in gear, and the clutch in do (or not do) for you in an accident? I dont understand what youre asking or why.

Driving a stick 101: dont idle with the car in gear and the clutch in.
 

Ace21

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I believe that this was mentioned on and RS review that I read where Ford uses this method to improve drivability for their manual vehicles. It is supposed to help those that are not so great at 1st gear take-offs I believe.
 

wildcatgoal

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Should be in N, clutch up at stop lights. Not good for the throw out bearing to have the clutch mashed down the entire light. If there's an emergency, you'll be just as likely to get out of it unscathed as an auto if you're any good at driving a stick. When you press the clutch in on these cars (even the 15-17), RPM can jump a little. It is programming to smooth the roll launch of the vehicle from a near lugging idle RPM.
 

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texasboy21

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What happens if you need to take evasive action and quickly move the vehicle out of the way while stopped in neutral?
Clutch in and put it in gear. I get what you are saying - as I despise those who rip up to XXXmph they put the car in neutral. Doesnt make any sense. While driving, especially at that speed, the likelihood of needing to maneuver is dramatically higher than while driving "normally" or at a complete stop.
 

Double

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The little force it takes to keep it to the ground how is that going to do any damage ?

If I see how some of you folkes shift your manual cars I doubt a little idling at some stopsign/light is going to do any serious damage. Some of these driving vids it's almost a competition who can smash their gears the hardest, even gopro image stabilization cannot keep the vid steady :) There are ways to shift smoothly you know :)
 

Mike's Mustang

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What happens if you need to take evasive action and quickly move the vehicle out of the way while stopped in neutral?
I'd rather get rear ended and not be at fault than be at fault for rear ending the car in front of me, or be liable for potentially causing a t-bone accident. Which would increase the possibility of my own fatality.
 

Ace21

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The little force it takes to keep it to the ground how is that going to do any damage ?
It's more on the principals of centrifugal imbalance, disproportionate pressure distribution, and material fatigue when clutched in.

Centrifugal imbalance: nothing is totally round, especially on mass production items. Older cars had issue with rear bearing damage over time from this.

Disproportionate pressure distribution: while the throw out bearing are leaps above the old designs they still do not produce perfect pressure dispersion which can cause abnormal wear on both the throw out bearing and the clutch.

Material fatigue: if you look at a clutch there are little metal "fingers" on the pressure plate which can suffer from abnormal fatigue if not used within the scope that they were designed. Think of a rubber band that is stretched for long periods of time, it fatigues and it's physical dimensions and elasticity changes.
 

Zelek

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Anytime you're idling, you are losing gas. The difference between a few 100 rpm is not going to matter at 0% throttle. Killing your clutch early will cost you a lot more.

Also, evasive action while sitting in neutral? Uh... put it in gear and go? Most likely if you're stopped you'll have someone else behind you in most cases. We're talking a very unlikely scenario here, but if it's possible, a good manual driver will be just fine.
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