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Installing BMR lockout cradle

sw686blue

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How long is it to install and what is the level of complexity?

Thanks.
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JungleG1337

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2 hours or so with the correct tools. Take your time with the 2 front 21mm bolts because they can cross thread very easily.
 

BMR Tech

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I would say that the 2 hours above is a bit on the generous side, but I can see that being the case if you take your time and are not used to turning wrenches on a common basis.

Most of my customers claim about an hour. Those who do them regularly (shops, guys who install for friends etc) and myself, typically can get them on and buttoned up in about 40 minutes - sometimes sooner if the front bolts play nice as @JungleG1337 mentioned above.

What I personally do is, I back my car on ramps....and start the process.

I remove the rear two large blue bolts, install the upper rings, then the lower formed plate washers.

Run the bolts up a little snug....but NOT TIGHT.

I move to the front, install the upper rings, stick the lower washers to the bushings, and fit the front lower braces. This is the time consuming part...

(sometimes it is easier to have the rears really loose and shift the cradle with a pry bar at this time....the most important part of the install is to ensure you line the fronts up and get the bolts started without cross threading)

Once you get the front large bolts started...go back to the rears and loosen them to where the cradle has play.

Back to the fronts, run them in and snug up a little.

Back to the rears, run the bolts in and snug....while visually watching to make sure the the BMR lower formed plates are centered over the stock lower bushing plates.

Torque them all to spec and then head to the alignment shop. If it needs adjusted, get it done and enjoy!
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HoosierDaddy

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What effect does having the car on its tires have (other than maybe being in the way)? Does that make it even a little harder to move the cradle to align the bolts if needed?

Also not understanding why its better to use a pry bar in the back of the cradle to align the front, especially if the back bolts are already started. I would have expected the rear to be easier to move with the pry bar either to get the rear bolts started or keep load off while threading them in.

I understand if you're too busy to explain, but am interested.
 

BMR Tech

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Not sure what you mean about prying the rear to align the front.

But if it helps, the cradle is a solid piece. Sometimes when trying to thread the fronts in...the alignment of the cradle can work against you. Having the rears loose when the front bolts are out, and a pry bar handy, can make installing the front bolts much easier.
 

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HoosierDaddy

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But if it helps, the cradle is a solid piece. Sometimes when trying to thread the fronts in...the alignment of the cradle can work against you. Having the rears loose when the front bolts are out, and a pry bar handy, can make installing the front bolts much easier.
I think I got it. Basically slightly rotating the whole cradle around a loose rear bolt with the bar to line up the front.
 

catchthecarp

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I'm going to find out first hand, my CB005 should arrive tomorrow.
 

JohnD

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Do these eliminate the need for higher durometer cradle bushings for tracking on road courses? What about NVH issues?
 

Volstang

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If you also the Steeda alignment bushings at the same time it prevents you from cross threading the bolts. They sell a set that fit with the BMR Cradle Lockout Kit. Great to do both together.
 

BmacIL

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Do these eliminate the need for higher durometer cradle bushings for tracking on road courses? What about NVH issues?
Correct.

NVH is extremely minimal. The only change I experienced was slightly louder sharp road impacts (patches/cracks in the road). Otherwise, no increase in tire noise or harshness. The handling and power-application performance improvements far, far outweigh any small NVH change. Fantastic mod :thumbsup:
 

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Volstang

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I went from stock to aluminum pucks and they did have some NVH. I ended up switching those out for the Steeda red bushings that are the softer durometer. No noticeable NVH. Could probably have gone to the black ones. They certainly help with wheel hop along with the Cradle Lockout kit.
 

BmacIL

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I went from stock to aluminum pucks and they did have some NVH. I ended up switching those out for the Steeda red bushings that are the softer durometer. No noticeable NVH. Could probably have gone to the black ones. They certainly help with wheel hop along with the Cradle Lockout kit.
You're talking about diff bushings. Different thing entirely from an NVH perspective.
 

wildcatgoal

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When I install IRS parts that'll require the ability to manipulate the IRS, I use a steel rod or a really long screw driver to manipulate the IRS from the point where the factory aligns the IRS during installation, or at least one of the points. It is located at the back of the car and there's a hole on the IRS subframe I put the rod through nearby the rear IRS blue bolt, the rod goes into a hole in the frame of the vehicle. Then I manipulate the IRS as needed to hand start the front blue bolts. The rear bolts I've never had a problem with. Highly recommend the Steeda alignment dowels, they effectively have forced proper threading of the bolts every time. I actually do the front/cradle part first at the IRS bolt then handle the back bolts then secure the cradle to the frame with the two small bolts forward of the IRS subframe... and I loosen all 4 bolts at the same time with the IRS supported so the IRS can be moved around a little, then do each corner. I do installs when asked on a lift these days, but nothing you can't do with a jack under the differential with a piece of rubber on the jack point so the differential doesn't bind up or get scratched when you manipulate the IRS assembly. If you have an auto, put it in N before starting. I feel people get hung up on installing this particular part when they don't support the IRS assembly properly after loosening bolts. Just letting it hang seems to create problems and add difficulty.
 

catchthecarp

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Thanks for tips wildcat.....
 

YukonRally

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Installed mine today. Car feels planted, and already had the red diff bushings and alignment sleeves from Steeda. I love the ride, but since putting the CB005 kit in I now have an audible vibration coming from the rear end anytime I let off the gas in 6th.
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