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GT350 Clutch Pedal Vibration

iamevan

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I have about 8,300 miles on my 2017 GT350. About 500-700 miles ago the clutch pedal began to exhibit a vibration. It feels like I'm pushing the clutch through gritty material.

The vibration is most noticeable when the transmission temperature is high (130-140F+) but it does happen at lower temps too. The vibrations occur when I begin to press down the clutch and when almost at the floor. If I accelerate spiritedly, the trans temps are high, and I press down the clutch, I can really feel it. Or if I keep my foot on the gas and begin to slightly press the clutch, it vibrates like hell. Turning on the AC also seems to amplify the clutch vibration for some reason.

At random times I can feel a difference engaging gears too. For example, if I'm accelerating and change gears, the shifter vibrates a bit and there is a different clutch pedal vibration/feeling as I go into the gear. I can feel the shifter going into gear through the clutch pedal; it makes this quick vibration/buzz feeling through the clutch as the gear is engaged.

The clutch pedal vibration is almost gone when idling; it only occurs at speed.
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Austinj427

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Someone brought it up for another member who had a clutch vibration. If there are material deposits on the flywheel it may create that issue.

Are you pretty hard on the clutch? Try a few hard launches and see what it does.
 
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iamevan

iamevan

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Someone brought it up for another member who had a clutch vibration. If there are material deposits on the flywheel it may create that issue.

Are you pretty hard on the clutch? Try a few hard launches and see what it does.
No, I'm pretty easy on the clutch. No launches and no quick shifting. It's my daily driver.

Do you have a link to the post?
 

SVTinAR

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I wish I could remember what car this pertained to many years ago, but it had a hydraulic clutch and there was a problem that after some miles the clutch hydraulic fluid would break down from heat and go bad and have to be replaced which restored normal operation. May have been the C5 or C6 Corvette. I wonder if our cars could be susceptible to the same issue and need a clutch system fluid change once in awhile?
 

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rj45

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I created the thread a while back about my car's clutch pedal vibration. Mine started early at about 200 miles on the odometer, but it did seem to improve over time (albeit, with varying consistency...some days good, others not). I believe I've recently found the cause, and it's a simple fix. My throttle body hose clamp was loose...not falling off loose, but the bolt was not tight. After tightening, the clutch pedal vibration was noticeably reduced. It must have been letting unmetered air pass by and affecting the engine's running. So far, the improvement has been consistent. I also had that gritty feel over much of the pedal's throw, but I believe that was a separate issue that has thankfully worked itself out (it was not as consistent as the vibration).

My theory about it improving somewhat months ago is that the hose may have naturally better sealed itself to the throttle body through heat cycling, etc. However, due to engine vibration and movement, it couldn't stay entirely sealed. I've rechecked the hose clamp and it has loosened back up a bit over a few days of driving, so it's something I'll be checking regularly. I may get a t-bolt clamp which should stay tight permanently. Unfortunately, I drove the car for many miles with this issue. But, at least it's good now.

I will say that there it still some clutch pedal vibration felt at certain loads/rpm's, but it's to a degree I would believe is normal for this FPC engine. I really hope this helps you, because I know how aggravating issues like this are. Actually, I'm gonna create a separate thread about checking the clamp, because it may benefit others even if they're not feeling any clutch pedal vibration.
 
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JAJ

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...It must have been letting unmetered air pass by and affecting the engine's running...
I'm not going to disagree with your conclusion, but it's unlikely that this could happen without the ECU throwing a check engine light.

Everything the ECU does involves knowing exactly how much air mass is flowing into the engine. It has correction factors for every possible source of unmetered air like the brake booster and the fuel tank EVAP circuits.

If there's a source of air getting in that it doesn't control, the ECU will do one of two things: if it's really tiny, it'll think it's normal and it'll compensate fuel delivery to account for it (so the engine runs normally). Otherwise, if it's big enough, it will still compensate by adding fuel, but it will detect that it's excessive and light up the MIL.
 

tjbrowder

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I wish I could remember what car this pertained to many years ago, but it had a hydraulic clutch and there was a problem that after some miles the clutch hydraulic fluid would break down from heat and go bad and have to be replaced which restored normal operation. May have been the C5 or C6 Corvette. I wonder if our cars could be susceptible to the same issue and need a clutch system fluid change once in awhile?
C6....I made it a practice of changing out the clutch fluid on mine during every oil change. Would turn black again a very short time after replacement.
 
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H6G

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C6....I made it a practice of changing out the clutch fluid on mine during every oil change. Would turn black again a very short time after replacement.
I had the same problem with my SS (LS3). Since clutch fluid & brake fluid share the same tank.... I wanted to isolate the clutch fluid reservoir. Also... had a remote steel bleeder line for T6060. I’ve been thinking of doing a dedicated clutch reservoir for GT350.... for easier fluid change.
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rj45

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I'm not going to disagree with your conclusion, but it's unlikely that this could happen without the ECU throwing a check engine light.

Everything the ECU does involves knowing exactly how much air mass is flowing into the engine. It has correction factors for every possible source of unmetered air like the brake booster and the fuel tank EVAP circuits.

If there's a source of air getting in that it doesn't control, the ECU will do one of two things: if it's really tiny, it'll think it's normal and it'll compensate fuel delivery to account for it (so the engine runs normally). Otherwise, if it's big enough, it will still compensate by adding fuel, but it will detect that it's excessive and light up the MIL.
I understand where you're coming from, and I had the same thought about it triggering a check engine light (which I don't have), but the clutch pedal vibration (or otherwise described as an odd feedback) is noticeably reduced. Also, throttle response when re-engaging the clutch between gears is better; before, I would sometimes feel a little hesitation (not real bad but noticeable). Lastly, rpm float time (ecu controlled) between gears seemed inconsistent.

It may all sound nuts, and I'm no mechanic, but the car is running better since I tightened the clamp. To get an idea of how loose it was, the clamp bolt probably made (and I'm guessing) four or five full rotations. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket instead of a screwdriver, so I didn't want to go too tight. I could have tightened it more, but I didn't want to damage the clamp.

The amount/duration of air passing could have been small/brief, but maybe the ecu's compensation was causing a brief period of uneven running that I was feeling in the clutch pedal when shifting (IIRC, our twin clutch disks are undamped, which may play a part). I have no other explanation. My car had this issue through all sorts of ambient temperatures, winter gas, summer gas, etc.
 
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SVTinAR

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C6....I made it a practice of changing out the clutch fluid on mine during every oil change. Would turn black again a very short time after replacement.
I think that was it - C6. I forgot to mention that most reported the fluid turning black. :)
 
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iamevan

iamevan

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Bumping my thread to see if anyone else has this issue or has any ideas?

I'm trying to get the dealer to address the issue but they say it's "normal".
 

LICobra

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I have a ‘19 and still doing break in miles, from day one shifting above 3000 rpms give a clutch pedal vibration which I’ve never experienced in any other manual transmission Mustang I have owned.
I will have to watch if gets worse or stays the same at higher shift points.
I have read that the FPC motors could experience slight vibrations....??
It still bothers me that it’s there....
 

Elemnt6ix

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I have a ‘19 and still doing break in miles, from day one shifting above 3000 rpms give a clutch pedal vibration which I’ve never experienced in any other manual transmission Mustang I have owned.
I will have to watch if gets worse or stays the same at higher shift points.
I have read that the FPC motors could experience slight vibrations....??
It still bothers me that it’s there....
Hi LlCobra,

Are you still experiencing this phenomenon, as this too is happening to me on my 2020 Mustang GT?

Cheers
 

LICobra

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Hi LlCobra,

Are you still experiencing this phenomenon, as this too is happening to me on my 2020 Mustang GT?

Cheers
After two years of driving I don't feel it's a clutch issue, but an inherent vibration that comes with the 5.2 flat plain crank in my case....it's still there but I no longer notice it now.
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