Should I baby my 18 EB PP and stay out of boost for 1K mi?

What do you guys think?

prostovovatt said:

What do you guys think?

Click to expand...

No, just follow the recommendations in the Owner's Manual. Break in requires moderate pressure on the piston rings, which you cannot achieve if you baby it.

The answer is probably yes, depending on your definition of "baby it", The manual break in period states to frequently change up speeds but also change up through the gears early which means to not do 6k shifts WOT.

Turbong said:

The answer is probably yes, depending on your definition of "baby it", The manual break in period states to frequently change up speeds but also change up through the gears early which means to not do 6k shifts WOT.

Click to expand...

Turbong, I based my response on the OP's own definition in the title, "...stay out of boost." The owner's manual says nothing about avoiding boost, and acceleration to 60 mph on a flat surface if you stay out of boost can take upwards of 20 seconds. I would be more careful when the engine is cold, but I think avoiding boost entirely is unnecessary, and may even be detrimental to a good break-in (not to mention dangerous if you're trying to get on the interstate).

Here's the full statement about engine break-in in the owner's manual:

Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.

Do not tow during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers).

Click to expand...

Here's some really good break in information:



Notice at 5:18 or so he makes the comment, "Obviously, don't baby the vehicle. Give it decent throttle, give it half throttle, something like that."

Assuming there are no defective parts and everything is properly installed, the biggest danger for ring seating is getting the cylinder wall too hot, which is why you should avoid lugging and high RPM (varying the RPM has to do with camshaft break in). The second biggest danger is you don't get enough pressure on the rings to properly wear the cylinder walls and effect a good seal. A poor ring seal will reduce engine power output and contribute to blow-by.

So, my advice would be no short drives (you want to get the engine to normal operating temp), no lugging (towing or heavy throttle at low RPM), no high RPM, and no long drives at the same RPM until break in is complete. Half throttle acceleration up to moderate RPM—I would keep it under 4000—will put light boost on the engine and ensure break-in is complete before reaching 1000 miles.

^ +1 to this post.

TorqueMan said:

Turbong, I based my response on the OP's own definition in the title, "...stay out of boost." The owner's manual says nothing about avoiding boost, and acceleration to 60 mph on a flat surface if you stay out of boost can take upwards of 20 seconds. I would be more careful when the engine is cold, but I think avoiding boost entirely is unnecessary, and may even be detrimental to a good break-in (not to mention dangerous if you're trying to get on the interstate)..

Click to expand...

Didn't really focus on the stay out of boost part, obviously you don't labor it either it also mentions not to do that. Usually when people talk about babying the break in they refer to not driving it hard and that is what he was probably referring to since a lot of people believe driving the car hard is good for the break in or there is no break involved as in it's ready from the factory.

I left the dealership wide open throttle and sideways with mine.

So far, motor seems good.

Drive more, worry less. Too much fearmongering going on.

smdandb2 said:

I left the dealership wide open throttle and sideways with mine.

So far, motor seems good.

Click to expand...

There's one in every crowd... :hail:

I went to the drag strip at a tad over 500 miles. Running great

smdandb2 said:

I left the dealership wide open throttle and sideways with mine.

So far, motor seems good.

Click to expand...

Agreed! I’ve noticed that the cars I’ve driven from the first mile like I’ll be driving long term have consumed much less oil than the cars I’ve followed break-in procedures on. I’m a firm believer in just driving it and enjoying it right from the get go, the motors are plenty broken in by the time they get to the dealership.

I suggest you red line it from light to light =)

I went wot on the first on ramp in mine. Chirped the 1-2&surprisingly the 2-3 shift.

One thing everyone can agree on is no matter what you do, always let the oil warm up before doing ANYTHING. It takes a few miles or about 7-8 minutes from ignition for mine to break green on oil temp. Green is 142 degrees Celsius. On my NA 2005 Toyota, I don't worry much about flogging the motor that soon. But on this car, even that is on the lower end of oil efficiency when you consider the amount of boost you can pump through the motor at any time. I always try to wait at least ten minutes, that puts it in a safe range for fun.

It can be tempting to get on it when you hit that first stoplight 5 minutes from your house and something pulls up next to you. One of my neighbors had a loud turbo Saturn that he always slung and flung around every corner. The best opportunity I ever had to dust him was when we both pulled out of the neighborhood one morning, but I would have been forcing syrup through the motor.

If you're diligent about that one facet every day you own your turbo, your motor will most likely reward you.

Modern oil spec'd for the Mustang is never 'syrup' -especially full synthetic. Oil is being "forced" through the engine the second you crank it on a cold start. Oil today is light years different than 20 years ago.

As for driving cars easy - technology is a great thing. Piston rings have come a long way. It used to be recommended to not hold a certain speed, to accelerate then let off the gas quickly etc to help set the rings.

DRIVE IT.

The only difference for a turbo engine - and I'll admit I'm not even sure if that applies anymore with today's technology and computer controls - is that it was good for the turbo itself if you let the engine run at idle a bit before cutting it off. It allowed the turbo to cool as exhaust and intake temps dropped and prevented the turbo from 'cooking' the hot oil in the housing when the car was cut off. Back when I had a Turbo Buick 3.8 - I had installed a Turbo Timer.