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Top Fender Exit Exhaust? (Not Downpipes)

Saywhen

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I'm thinking about a project where I run the exhaust into the interior for maximum sound experience. I'll just need to wear one of these while I'm driving:
:lol:
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BmacIL

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I appreciate the dedication and the fab work that is quite well done, but that sound is a big fat nope. Sounds like a 50 year old truck.
 
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johnny.3sgte

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(05/07/2018) Update; Dyno Results and Sound

Still no good quality in-cabin exhaust sounds — my buddy with the GoPro is still working on his shop. Also why we haven’t finished the aluminum plating surround for the exhaust.

But I attended an event called TSP Slam at Texas Motor Speedway this past Sunday with a few buddies of mine and they had a Mobile dyno for $50 for 2 pulls on a DynoJet. So I said why not!

Made 425.6rwhp and 348.63ft-lbs of torque, inlet air temps were at 117* during the dyno pull in 100* weather. Prior to the dyno session, the car had been sitting idle for around 10mins due to connection issues. At idle, the car was reading 140* inlet air temps and climbing steadily until they were ready for the session. My girlfriend and one of my buddies recorded it for me, I wanted to live in the moment. There’s 2 videos, one has better sound quality. But in my opinion, the video doesn’t do this exhaust enough justice, especially at high RPMs. Pay attention to the tent lol

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But I was guessing and hoping for around 430rwhp, but for a hot Texas summer day — 425.6rwhp isn’t bad! I’m happy with those numbers. I’m guessing in a “perfect” or good weather condition, I’ll make roughly 435-440rwhp and a little bit more torque. Idk what the rwhp and Ft-lbs of torque when the car was stock, but I’ve been seeing other stock GTs make 370-385rwhp and 350ft-lbs.

Thanks for reading!
 

earlingy

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I wouldn't do it to mine, too loud for me (Corsa touring is just right), but I love that you did it on yours.
To me it kinda sounds like the Ford Performance side exit pipes.
 

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johnny.3sgte

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Been awhile for the update, the shop’s been busy due to the hail storm that hit DFW a month ago and 2 restorations. But we finally fabricated the aluminum plates for the exhaust piping. They’re brushed aluminum with M4 Torx head bolts for an emergency removal if need be, with a 2.5” flare dyed hole.

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Dr. Norts

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Getting crazy with the cheez-whiz on the hood.

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Why are there a bunch of aluminum shavings under the edges of those exits for your under hood exhaust powered pipe organ?
 

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johnny.3sgte

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Why are there a bunch of aluminum shavings under the edges of those exits for your under hood exhaust powered pipe organ?
We had to cut the underpanel that covers the majority of the hole where the OEM hood vents sit. Cause there’s only a slit there, We also had to bend the tabs and dolly it flat so the new aluminum plates had good foundation to bolt onto.

I’m repainting the hood at work once it’s done anyway, so there’s no worrying there. It’s still not done.

We’re cutting another vent hole towards the rear of the cowl (towards the windshield) with a “scoop” welded on the back to pull more air out. No photos yet, but there’s already a hole in the cowl.
 

Dr. Norts

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We had to cut the underpanel that covers the majority of the hole where the OEM hood vents sit. Cause there’s only a slit there, We also had to bend the tabs and dolly it flat so the new aluminum plates had good foundation to bolt onto.

I’m repainting the hood at work once it’s done anyway, so there’s no worrying there. It’s still not done.

We’re cutting another vent hole towards the rear of the cowl (towards the windshield) with a “scoop” welded on the back to pull more air out. No photos yet, but there’s already a hole in the cowl.

Why so much need for heat extraction? Because of the exhaust in the fenders??
 
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johnny.3sgte

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Why so much need for heat extraction? Because of the exhaust in the fenders??
I live in the Dallas area of Texas, weather isn’t cool here often except late Fall through early Spring — IAT will usually read 110* to 118* while I drive. Maybe high 90s if I’m moving fast enough. So I’m trying to find the best way to pull the hot air trapped in the engine bay. Because if I leave it OEM, the original hood/engine compartment will only ventilate through the small slit from the hood vents, the corners of the hood forwards the windshield, and under the engine where the splash shield ends. The rest is blocked by the rubber seals to keep water out.

Although I do like the some of the designs that replace the OEM hood vents, the 1/4” slit to pull air is still there even if you were to replace it with the Roushe or even remove it completely. And the carbon fiber or fiberglass “Heat Extractor” hoods are $1,300+. So with the help of some of my buddies, I figured why not be unique and just make my own version of a “heat extractor” hood utalizing what I already have.

I’m not an engineer by any means, this is all theory and 80% sure it’ll work lol — if it doesn’t. At least it’ll look badass.
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