svtsnake
Active Member
Does anyone have the strut slotting / alignment service procedure for the 2018's? I cant find any bolt part number other than the W715295-S439. Isn't there another bolt that allows for more camber?
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Coyote Red
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BMR has a camber bolt for the S 550 I am using it, the tech at ford service told me I could get to 1.5 neg without a longer bolt.
DickR
Well-Known Member
This post has the number:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2145886&postcount=2
The bolt is not splined and is slightly smaller OD at the head end. The Ford part is also slightly cheaper than the splined bolt. It comes in packages of 4.
NOTE that the torque spec for both bolts are 184 lb-ft !!!!
The procedure is attached. Slot 1 mm towards the strut. There are helpful hints in the FS autocross thread (or some other recent related thread in this forum). Search back from the present.
destoups
Well-Known Member
Dick, I've been doing the same thing, trying to get more familiarity with the setup. Left alone, it's a very busy transmission, and if you try to keep the same kind of pace with manual shifts it's exhausting. In traffic I wind up shifting to second and third in very quick succession without a thought (which is good for my muscle memory), then holding the paddle long enough to revert to automatic mode until the next stop. I figure that's getting me used to the part I need to feel most comfortable with. Plus manual downshifts tend to be lurching and unpleasant and sometimes nausea-inducing for my primary passenger.
svtsnake
Active Member
Thanks. I plan on slotting the strut myself, then getting an alignment. The bolts & nuts are single use, so I should get a second set and take them to the shop doing my alignment?
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svtsnake
Active Member
I have used the paddles a ton, and they work great if you are full throttle or aggressively braking. To me, it feels like everything was designed for the paddles to only be used when you are pushing the car, then everything works wonderful. For normal around town driving, the trans will be very jerky.
I did an event in January, and kept it in track & selectshift mode the whole time. The shifts were quick, and the trans responded well to shift commands.
At the next event I am going to try leaving it in S and letting it auto shift, with track mode on for one run. From my experimentation, the trans will keep everything right in the sweet spot of the powerband. They only thing that has me a bit worried is a downshift when I'm not expecting it could unsettle the car.
DickR
Well-Known Member
Your choice on single use since I'm not qualified to really know, let alone recommend against the advice of the engineers and/or lawyers responsible for the manual's wording.
None of the fasteners (bolts and nuts) "act" like fasteners that have a specified amount of stretch when torqued like some engine bolts.
These, and the other involved fasteners, all behave like "normal" assuming no crash damage or serious corrosion.
None of the fasteners (bolts and nuts) "act" like fasteners that have a specified amount of stretch when torqued like some engine bolts.
These, and the other involved fasteners, all behave like "normal" assuming no crash damage or serious corrosion.
DickR
Well-Known Member
Regarding the 10A shifting it sounds like we have consensus. The primary reason for using the paddles in autocross is simply to stay in or shift between 2nd or 3rd as appropriate because there is no way the engineers programmed S or T for the stupidity of autocross. ;)
Did I mention I've been addicted to autocrossing since at least 1970? :doh:
Paddle shifting on the street is for practice when we don't have a sensitive passenger (sensitive being anyone who isn't crazy). ;)
Did I mention I've been addicted to autocrossing since at least 1970? :doh:
Paddle shifting on the street is for practice when we don't have a sensitive passenger (sensitive being anyone who isn't crazy). ;)
NightmareMoon
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Having had one strut to spindle nut come loose and fall off the car, I'd say dont reuse the bolts more than a few times and use a torque wrench, especially if you're switching to a non-splined bolt (the spines were the only thing holding that bolt through the strut). FWIW an alignment shop did the final torque on the one that came loose, so who knows what they did or didnt torque it to.
BmacIL
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If it is a torque to yield fastener, it will have a torque + angle. Those are absolutely one time use. If just a torque, they're not technically one time use other than legal people being conservative. The only exceptions to this are if they are torque prevailing (they'll have an oblong/oval/dorrito shape instead of round, and typically is the nut not the bolt).
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DickR
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I had Asheboro Ford do the camber mod today using 1 mm and the "no spline" bolts. -2.2 on both sides without driver. Since my "racer camber gauge" had close to -1.5 on each side I'm very pleased with -2.2 even on an alignment rack. With zero front toe the steering seems to have a somewhat stronger "self centering feel" on the highway but that is "subjective"
Ordered a new set of 275/35x19 RE-71R's today for one of my autocross wheel sets. Fun times soon if the weather permits!
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
-2.2 is decent. I just mounted new 285 RE71Rs after disintegrating the shoulder on one at a class. Poor tire had done 2018 Nats, a handful of local events, and 4 days of track time.I had Asheboro Ford do the camber mod today using 1 mm and the "no spline" bolts. -2.2 on both sides without driver. Since my "racer camber gauge" had close to -1.5 on each side I'm very pleased with -2.2 even on an alignment rack. With zero front toe the steering seems to have a somewhat stronger "self centering feel" on the highway but that is "subjective"
Ordered a new set of 275/35x19 RE-71R's today for one of my autocross wheel sets. Fun times soon if the weather permits!
Came 1 dead cone close to winning PAX at the first local event of 2018 w/ the fresh set of tires, but had to settle for 3rd / 150. Nothing quite like a new set of shoes.
DocWalt
Well-Known Member
So I finally leveled the opposite side of the garage (the side I've avoided using before because it was wildly unlevel...) and it took ~1 1/4" of floor tiles on the left front to make it level, lol.
Anyway, I checked my camber and came up with -2.0/-1.9 up front after all of the FSM allowances and on the rear (hasn't been touched from the factory AFAIK) -1.0/-0.5.
Bah, now I feel compelled to mess with the rear... which looks to be a bit PITA with the access to the rear camber "adjuster" and then resetting the toe and such. I just finally got the steering wheel perfectly straight, I'm picky and was turning single tie rods like 1/72nds of a turn, lol.
Anyway, I checked my camber and came up with -2.0/-1.9 up front after all of the FSM allowances and on the rear (hasn't been touched from the factory AFAIK) -1.0/-0.5.
Bah, now I feel compelled to mess with the rear... which looks to be a bit PITA with the access to the rear camber "adjuster" and then resetting the toe and such. I just finally got the steering wheel perfectly straight, I'm picky and was turning single tie rods like 1/72nds of a turn, lol.
DickR
Well-Known Member
What do you use the measure camber and toe? I use this bubble camber gauge and toe plates.
The camber gauge is easy to "calibrate" using a long carpenter bubble level.
Rear camber at the dealer was -1.3 left and -1.5 right with toe exactly at spec. GT PP camber spec is -1.5 rear so I didn't have him change it.
Apparently I "got lucky" with -1.5 front camber on both sides from the factory so another 0.7 with the FSM mods was easy to do.
DocWalt
Well-Known Member
Hey Dick,
I have a "pimpy" Longacre digital camber/caster gauge & a set of Jeg's toe plates. I string up the car and do it "right" when I set the rear toe. Toe plates are really only good for the front or making sure the rear didn't slip adjustment or something.
I think my car just had less camber up front than yours to start with. I don't know why it would, same suspension arms and strut/knuckle dimensions AFAIK.
I have a "pimpy" Longacre digital camber/caster gauge & a set of Jeg's toe plates. I string up the car and do it "right" when I set the rear toe. Toe plates are really only good for the front or making sure the rear didn't slip adjustment or something.
I think my car just had less camber up front than yours to start with. I don't know why it would, same suspension arms and strut/knuckle dimensions AFAIK.
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