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Computer died

Ruiner46

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As every one is saying, you need to get the codes that it is spitting out. Even the false ones as they can lead you down a path to find what is wrong. Since there are several codes, it's probably a wiring issue. I doubt your shop checked every wire and ground... it doesn't really sound like they know what they are doing. Ground wires are very important as they give a reference to compare wire voltages against. If you don't have a good ground, then the computer will not know what it is looking at since it doesn't have a "zero" volt signal to compare against. Many things are grounded to the engine and the engine is grounded to the chassis where the computer is grounded. If these connections aren't all solid, then the references will all vary causing problems.

There are OBD outputs for things like throttle position that you can look at in real time and see what the computer sees. There might even be different PIDs for pedal position vs throttle body position that you can get with an OBD2 scanner. I'm not sure exactly what is available on a normal scanner as I use HP Tuners. The computer throws these errors and goes into limp mode when it can't get the pedal position and throttle body blade position to match up in the way that it expects. If the throttle body is hooked up correctly, you should be able to turn the power on and measure the voltage coming out of one of the wires. Look around for TP1 or TP2 in a wiring diagram for the throttle body. As you move the throttle blades by hand, you should see the voltage change in a range from 0-5V. There is probably something similar you can do to the gas pedal output. A good shop should know how to do this basic troubleshooting on a drive-by-wire car.
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M151A2

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Throwing parts at the problem will not fix it.
There are several approaches that can be done. I would first ensure the CAN bus was reading 60 Ohms. Second, ensure all grounds are clean and tight. One ground wire left off will create havoc.
As stated above, the OBD will give you raw data. Confirm data in KOEO mode by manually moving the throttle plate and check voltages going to the CAN bus.

It will be a slow methodical process to ensure each item that coded is in working order.
One false signal will cause the computer to make drastic changes that will throw off everything else.

You need a quality DMM to go through this. I too will throw $50 in that it is not the 'puter.

That's my two cents.
 

z06psi

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robmustang201528

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I personally dont think its the computer as well. Alot of what everybody is saying makes sence. The shop swears that's what the problem is. He's paying for the new computer soooo.... I'm just praying that it's the computer and I can be done with this headache.
 

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greengoblin31

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ya multimeter is your best friend in a situation like this. If you don't have car in your hands to diagnose it, leave it up to the person with the tools & the skills.

the pcm isn't going to fix your issue
 

ahl395

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+1 most likely not the computer, and knowing the codes may help.

If he's paying for the ECU and is wrong then no worries for you, worth a shot. Once they see that's not the issue hopefully they will dive deeper into troubleshooting. It sounds like you need a different shop.

Have you asked your tuner to check over the tune? Re-downloaded a fresh file to make sure it didnt get corrupted somehow?
 
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robmustang201528

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Welp you guy's were right about the new computer which I figured. My SCT scanner only shows a crank learn code but when he uses his computer to read the codes a generator code , throttle pedal code and low oil pressure code and light comes on. He just ordered a whole new wiring harness. A wire must've gotten pinched or cut he thinks. This is the craziest shit ever. He also said it's not the tune. Tried putting the stock tune back in, car still does the same thing. Once you hit the gas pedal... wrench light. Smfh
 

Black Dog

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You needed another (yes duplicated this one even) new post to repeat the same shit you've already created a post for?...
Yea he is thread happy. Saw about 4 threads on the same thing from this guy. :wink:
 

Plimmer

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Had a similar thing on my car as well, turned out to be the harness to ECM was not plugged in correctly. I had carefully checked it, but it actually wasn't plugged in properly.

I agree with what everyone is saying, you got something shorted or not plugged in correctly. To check plugged in correctly, don't just wiggle connection, actually unplug and then redo.
 

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robmustang201528

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His scanner says Crank relearn, generator code, throttle pedal code, throttle position code low oil pressure light is on in my dash. My sct scanner just says. Crank relearn. Everytime I ask him that what I get. I'm gonna have to go up there and see the codes are for myself. Instead of telling me what the code number is.. he tells me what the code means
 

cdq85

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I'm by no means an expert, but it sounds like some sort of major piece is disconnected. Seems like some random codes being thrown. Is this supposed to be a good shop that your car is in?
 

cobra99dave

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Are you using the same Throttle body that was on the engine before? Reason I ask is that my car did something similar when I got my new Aluminator crate motor. Turns out Ford changed the throttle body electronics slightly between 2016 and 2017 so the voltage was off with the new TB. Car wouldn't rev properly etc. Once I put my factory TB on it ran like a dream.
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