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***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

2morrow

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Oh man, I would be very interested in getting a fix with all this going on. I would hate to blow a slave cylinder during a session.

Thanks for the info [MENTION=24801]AlbertD[/MENTION] .
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Strokerswild

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Count me in on this slack job from the factory, glad I saw this post this time around.

:doh:
 

Bridgie

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So... I made this test tonight with a vacuum pump and agitation of the Clutch line.
Clearly with the tube being manipulated, agitated or pushed on/off.. the pressure within the system is lost.

Would Aggressive (track) or normal driving create this movement...? Maybe not, but the leaks are still evident.

 

GT Pony

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So... I made this test tonight with a vacuum pump and agitation of the Clutch line.
Clearly with the tube being manipulated, agitated or pushed on/off.. the pressure within the system is lost.

Would Aggressive (track) or normal driving create this movement...? Maybe not, but the leaks are still evident.

That's a lot of hose manipulation, so doubt it would do anything close to that while driving. Try it again but just tap the middle, between the two ends of the line a little bit to make it slightly vibrate and see what the vacuum gauge does.
 

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Bridgie

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That's a lot of hose manipulation, so doubt it would do anything close to that while driving. Try it again but just tap the middle, between the two ends of the line a little bit to make it slightly vibrate and see what the vacuum gauge does.
I agree, it was a lot of pushing and pulling.. we did see the dial moving with tapping and twisting, but in true Hollywood fashion excess is better than little.

Doesn’t take away the fact that the OEM joint is worth $h1t.
 

Lost

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So... I made this test tonight with a vacuum pump and agitation of the Clutch line.
Clearly with the tube being manipulated, agitated or pushed on/off.. the pressure within the system is lost.

Would Aggressive (track) or normal driving create this movement...? Maybe not, but the leaks are still evident.

Keep in mind, the seals in the master and slave are designed to seal against PRESSURE, and will quite easily give way with vacuum. A pressure seal grips the surface and increases the seal pressure with increasing pressure of the fluid. But a vacuum will suck it right past.
 

Bridgie

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bananafonez

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checked mine and it was seeping fluid. ive been having issues with my brake pedal being spongy as well after i last tracked the car. could this be related? seems like i loose brake pressure the more i push down on the clutch or if im backing up into my driveway slowly.
 

Jeff73Mach1

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Checked mine at 37K yesterday. Cocked off at an angle, and definitely needed to be pushed back on. Even after it is pushed on it wants to back off part way. I think a zip tie in the groove is a reasonable solution.
 

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DivineStrike

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Had an issue with my clutch not disengaging today, took it into the shop. Totally forgot about this thread until now. I had checked on this, can't remember when tho. It was good to go. Do we'll see what the outcome of this is. I'll probably drive by and check on it real quick.

Checked it and it was still fine
 
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tj@steeda

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Mustang_Lou

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I was about to say "let's see how much they're gonna charge for a piece of rubber hose and 2 clips" expecting way more than the $10 you're asking ... well done!
 

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I installed the Steeda Line Kit yesterday and pumped the clutch pedal about 100 times to get any air out that may have been introduced while replacing the OEM unit since I didn't have a vacuum bleeder available.

To give it a true test, I waited until this morning to drive the car so that it would be cold.

Fellas, I believe this is the solution!!!! No issues with shifting into first gear and the remainder of the shifts have never felt this smooth and effortless before. I'm 99.9% sure the stock master cylinder line was the culprit.

I took notice when removing the OEM line, there is an inner fitting/sleeve that is of shoddy build quality. So even though the OEM line was on all the way, I believe this inner fitting/sleeve was not sealing the line completely and allowing air to gradually get pulled back into the system.

Highly recommend this to anyone who has trouble with gear engagement until the drive line/fluids are up to temp.
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