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SCCA F-Street Setup. What's Everyone Done so Far?

DickR

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Have you guys found something you liked for brake pads? I am still running oem on my GTPP. Would like to get a little more rear bias.
Ditto if it would help "create" rotation during trail braking corner entry at autocross speeds without screwing up ABS so that it acts like a Camaro with "ice mode". ;)
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jpaulson

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Ditto if it would help "create" rotation during trail braking corner entry at autocross speeds without screwing up ABS so that it acts like a Camaro with "ice mode". ;)
I am definitely a little afraid of upseting the electronics. I have some Hawk money to spend. Might throw a set of hps 5.0 or hp+ in the rear and just see what happens.
 

DickR

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I am definitely a little afraid of upseting the electronics. I have some Hawk money to spend. Might throw a set of hps 5.0 or hp+ in the rear and just see what happens.
Thinking about this more my concern is that ABS will at best simply limit the braking to the rear a little sooner. At worst it might also limit braking to the front. It probably won't be like the old "flat spot the tires days" when changing pad or lining compound at one end was an effective way to change brake bias for autocross.
 

Grintch

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Ummm, My GTPP has quite a bit more camber that the SS can run in FS. IIRC, Ryan's SS only had 1.6 to 1.8 degrees in front.

1LE guys are getting 2+ with the stock hardware.
1.8 is better than you have with an unmodified Mustang. Are they having to slot they're struts?
 

jpaulson

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1LE guys are getting 2+ with the stock hardware.
1.8 is better than you have with an unmodified Mustang. Are they having to slot they're struts?
Didn't mention 1LE. I would expect the "track package" to have more available adjustment range. And yes I would say that the 1.6 to 1.8 on the SS is in the same ballpark that a GTPP can get without slotting. Certainly not enough more to call out GM for having a better design.
 

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DickR

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My understanding is that the normal gen 6 Camaro's have strut mounting holes which are slightly larger than the bolts so some "degree" of adjustment is available. I think Mustang is the only major FS player (Chevy, Ford, BMW) that actually has the ability to get around -2 deg or slightly more with the combination of 1 mm slot and slightly smaller ID service bolts.

That said a friend who went from a 15 GTPP which was allowed 2 mm slots (the FSM changed to 1 mm later) to a 16 SS said the Camaro actually turned in better than the Mustang. What that means in regard to grip vs "feel" I don't know.
 

Norm Peterson

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Yes, one of the strut holes is elongated or enlarged (I think it's the top one in the 5th gens, the lower one for the 6th gens). There's also a hole in the knuckle that allows the use of a bolt to aid in establishing and holding the settings while torquing the strut to knuckle fasteners (it's removed afterward). This adjusting bolt needs to be small-headed or unheaded so the head won't bottom out on the knuckle. and it wouldn't be there at all if there was no designed-in adjustment capability.

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destoups

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[MENTION=12865]DickR[/MENTION] I got downshifted to first on one of my runs this weekend. Dunno if you deal w pivot cones much, but I was caught off guard (and, of course, it kinda killed the run because I couldn't find the darned paddle ....)
 

DickR

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[MENTION=12865]DickR[/MENTION] I got downshifted to first on one of my runs this weekend. Dunno if you deal w pivot cones much, but I was caught off guard (and, of course, it kinda killed the run because I couldn't find the darned paddle ....)
Sometimes. :( Thanks for the hint/heads up! It might be better to manually downshift coming into the pivot just to be mentally prepared for the need to upshift on the way out.

How is the trans behaving in general in autocrossing or is it too early to have much experience? (I've gotten no autocross experience with the car yet . . . but did buy a set of 275/35x19 RE-71R's waiting for appropriate weather.

Thanks!
 

DickR

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Des -

I did some testing at low speed/accel in my neighborhood and circular driveway. My GT in 2nd did not force a downshift in manual shifting mode until the car was barely moving/stopped. It seemed to behave this way if I was in Normal, Sport+, or Track drive modes. I know yours is a base so who knows what drive mode with TC and Advance Trac off. I forgot to test with my nannies off. I did try it with starting in 1st and and also starting in second. Also leaving it in 2nd until doing a slow pivot cone type 180 and with going through the gears 1 - 2 -3 or starting in 2nd and going to 3rd and then down to 2. Where I was testing didn't let me try it with hard braking or acceleration. Again, in no case did it force a downshift to first unless the car was stopped or essentially stopped but I couldn't try heavy acceleration out of the turn to see what that did.:confused:
 

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destoups

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That's been the only real negative so far (and it did it on only one run).

It was quite cold and sketchy outside but upshifts didn't upset the car even in slaloms.
 

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Are the paddles on the wheel or column? I assume on the wheel... which is idiotic.
 

destoups

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Des -
Again, in no case did it force a downshift to first unless the car was stopped or essentially stopped :
Essentially stopped is the key phrase here :) I had tested for this on the street -- the stall point was about 7 mph. I don't *think* i was going that slow, but who knows. Preceding turn was a relatively high speed sweeper, and the pivot itself was a greater than 90-degree turn into a gate 20 yards or so away.

I think you're probably safe unless you, also, have a course designer who thinks the solution to cold and damp is more cones.
 

DickR

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Essentially stopped is the key phrase here :) I had tested for this on the street -- the stall point was about 7 mph. I don't *think* i was going that slow, but who knows. Preceding turn was a relatively high speed sweeper, and the pivot itself was a greater than 90-degree turn into a gate 20 yards or so away.

I think you're probably safe unless you, also, have a course designer who thinks the solution to cold and damp is more cones.
I've seen pivot cones on narrow taxiways and other small spaces where the turn was more than 180 degrees in first gear with one being about 270 degrees. However the course designers and their setup helpers do all the work so I keep my mouth shut and enjoy/learn as much as possible. I'm long past the years when I did course design and setup. :)

Regarding paddle shifting or even the GM, etc. console shifter lever + or - position for autocross I'm not sure there is any "better" method. Maybe a simple voice command: "UP" or "DOWN" :D
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