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VooDoo Engine Used Oil Analyses

Hack

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Funny to hear someone who actually does an OA say this. Most of the time this is the comment you get from clueless guys who change their oil every 3k on a blanket, blind policy that their dad did it this way, or whatever the blind reason is. Even funnier coming from you with an OA in your hand that proved 1,000 mile oil change buys you absolutely nothing. But oh well; touchy subject, I know. To each his own.

I’d recommend folks get TAN and TBN also. Can reveal a large piece of the puzzle. I’m surprise TAN and TBN aren’t standard for for what it provides info wise.
Did the OA prove that 1,000 mile oil change buys you absolutely nothing? How did it do that? I got the impression that there are extra metal and silicon particles in suspension that are too small to be removed by the filter. Are you saying that metal particles in the oil don't have an impact on engine wear?
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SnakeAndSteak

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I'm surprised that the molybdenum content isn't higher than average because of the assembly lube. It's actually super low. Hmmmm??????
 

Zitrosounds

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I burned my oil at my lab at work. Nothing to report. I would not change my oil every 1k miles, that is a waste. I would highly recommend tracking on fresh clean oil and then again fresh clean oil afterwards if you plan on driving regularly. Other than that, the intervals provided by the oil sensor and ECU will do just fine.
 

w3rkn

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It is not how many miles, but how hard it's been driven... that dictates when you most likely need an oil change.


1,000 miles of what..?
 
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Spacebird

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It is not how many miles, but how hard it's been driven... that dictates when you most likely need an oil change.


1,000 miles of what..?
Shifts at 8250 at COTA, MSR Houston, Boulder Canyon, etc. I drive the pants off of this car :)
 

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JAJ

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The OLM is smart enough to take driving conditions into account. When I had my 2011 GT, it was happy to run 10,000 miles between changes until I put a blower on it. Then it started asking for changes at around 5,000 to 6,000. The OLM knew the engine was working harder, and it shortened the interval.
 

tom185

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It is not how many miles, but how hard it's been driven... that dictates when you most likely need an oil change.

And time. I've read on this forum folks changing the oil and resetting the oil life indicator right when they set her down for the winter and when they start her up 5-6 months later the oil life remaining indicates 50%-60%, so it appears to have a 1 year timer after you reset it.

It would be interesting to know everything that goes into the GT350 formula regarding how it sets the % remaining. Time, miles, how hard it's driven, maybe even cold starts, fuel used...I'm sure it's more than a handful of sensor readings.
 

oldbmwfan

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I kicked myself yesterday. Did my 2nd oil change on the R (yeah, I know I should have done it before storage rather than coming out), and forgot to grab the sample for Blackstone. I did get one at the first change, and the car only saw ~2k miles and one track event in between, so it should be fine ... will get one at the next change (probably in another year).
 

snaproll

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Why bother with this? It’s either gonna blow up or it’s not. I have done Blackstone out of curiosity on race cars and airplanes but seems like a good way to drive yourself crazy over some random things you can’t control and that are under warranty anyway.

Short changes help. There’s a reason Ford recommends race car oil changed at 4 hours. If you are tracking it, 4 hours is a good rule. You won’t need Blackstone when chunks of metal come out of the spigot!
 
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Spacebird

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Why bother with this?
On my Saab 9-2X Aero a UOA identified a tear in my air filter. On my F31 328d it identified a problem that probably wouldn’t have been found until long after the warranty (and BMW replaced the short block). On my 987 Cayman it didn’t tell me anything actionable, but gave me peace of mind.
 

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Tomster

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On my Saab 9-2X Aero a UOA identified a tear in my air filter. On my F31 328d it identified a problem that probably wouldn’t have been found until long after the warranty (and BMW replaced the short block). On my 987 Cayman it didn’t tell me anything actionable, but gave me peace of mind.
I agree.
 

oldbmwfan

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Why bother with this? It’s either gonna blow up or it’s not. I have done Blackstone out of curiosity on race cars and airplanes but seems like a good way to drive yourself crazy over some random things you can’t control and that are under warranty anyway.

Short changes help. There’s a reason Ford recommends race car oil changed at 4 hours. If you are tracking it, 4 hours is a good rule. You won’t need Blackstone when chunks of metal come out of the spigot!
How bad would you feel if you spun a bearing 15k miles after the warranty expired, and you could have had a documented history of copper in the oil to show Ford, but you were too cheap?

These are highly-stressed, high-revving, high-compression motors with just about the highest piston speeds in any production engine due to the long stroke and 8250 RPM.

Also, given the way the cars hold value, even if nothing ever turns up "wrong," this is great documentation to show the next owner and hopefully get top dollar on resale. Easy to prove how the car was cared for and that it's issue free if you have the records.
 

Zitrosounds

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How bad would you feel if you spun a bearing 15k miles after the warranty expired, and you could have had a documented history of copper in the oil to show Ford, but you were too cheap?

These are highly-stressed, high-revving, high-compression motors with just about the highest piston speeds in any production engine due to the long stroke and 8250 RPM.

Also, given the way the cars hold value, even if nothing ever turns up "wrong," this is great documentation to show the next owner and hopefully get top dollar on resale. Easy to prove how the car was cared for and that it's issue free if you have the records.
On both cars I purchased extended warranty ,bumper to pumper. Honestly if you are tracking the car regularly a good idea would be to have the engine rebuild planned at some point. That's what is done with race car engines.
 

tom185

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I've used Blackstone in the past. I didn’t use them on my first GT350 oil change at 1K miles, though I saved a sample of that oil. I plan on doing my 2nd change in the next 30 days and will be shipping a sample in to them.

I did have that oil filter from that 1st change standing on its head for a good while. I initially let it drain into some paper towels for a few weeks after I did the change before I flipped it on its head. A couple of months ago I decided to grab the Dremel with a cutting blade to have a peek inside and a lot of the debris it appears collected at that end of the filter. Flakes (silver and blue) and some streaks of heavier black sediment were prevalent. Some of the blue flakes collected in the filter ribs too. The filter did its job. Some pics.
IMG_6916 copy.jpg
IMG_6953 copy.jpg
IMG_6957 copy.jpg
IMG_6963 copy.jpg
 

Austinj427

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I don't like cutting those filters with anything other than a bespoke filter cutter. They can make you shit your pants with the extra metal that they drop in there.

Also, do these push oil through the center and out the sides? If so, youll need to cut the paper out and look through it that way.
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