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2018 GT low rpm engine rattle, cylinder damage pics, Ford buyback process

Do you have engine rattle in low rpm range that sounds like mine?

  • Yes, but have not taken it to dealer

    Votes: 146 42.6%
  • Yes, but dealer said it was normal

    Votes: 54 15.7%
  • Yes, Ford approved short block, long block or whole engine

    Votes: 22 6.4%
  • Yes, other repair was performed

    Votes: 7 2.0%
  • No

    Votes: 114 33.2%

  • Total voters
    343

BLU2DSKY

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Stupid question - do all of us with the rattle have 6 speeds? Was trolling Youtube and listened to a couple auto videos and didn't hear the rattle in them at all.

I'm starting to wonder if the noise is the same but different areas:

1. It goes away or diminishes after driving - not engine related.
2. Stays the same all the time and get worse over time like bigriver, engine damage.

Ford also redesigned the clutch and flywheel (dual mass) and they also may make a racket too.

Would also be interesting to see if the F150 guys have the rattle too in the 18 engines as they are very, very close and made at the same plant.
The guy that started the other thread and left, got a buyback, he is replacing is manual that had the rattle with a 10R80 and said the new one also has the rattle.
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BLU2DSKY

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Ford also redesigned the clutch and flywheel (dual mass) and they also may make a racket too.
Do you mean in reference to the failing clutches, like that Rated R Youtube guy said? Or do you mean in general it was a new design for the 2018? Either Rated R was the only person that has said Ford is designing the clutch again which is why they're on back order.
 

BrianH87

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I drove mine today and was cognizant of the sound. It is there when the motor is cold and for a bit after. After all temps were at normal operation the sound pretty much goes away for me. My car is an auto.
 

GT Pony

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In reality though, tooling malfunctions at plants, wrong parts being installed, or just plain defective parts can make it into an engine at a mass production factory.

Exactly ... Every design and drawing can be perfect and if followed correctly will produce a great product. BUT, lack of QA control to meet those drawings and specs will result in problems. Basic manufacturing engineering process. Quality control in, quality out ... or lack of quality control, junk out.
 

GT Pony

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So I bought $180 borescope from Harbor Freight and tried to give er a shot.


I couldn't get an image of the walls because you're going to need a scope that can shoot 90°. Either that or the piston wasnt down all the way...
I can see some cylinder wall in your photos, and I can't see any obvious scrapes or gouges in the walls.

Could be this rattle is excessive piston skirt to bore clearance. Some guys report a rattle when the engine is cold, but goes away after warm-up. But if some engines have excessive piston to bore clearance, it may never go away after warm-up. Excessive piston clearance may not ever do any cylinder damage either unless it's really drastically excessive clearance.
 

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Madtwos

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My car sits still. They said I can drive it but I really dont want to right now. My noise is worse now and I get the noise from 1k all the way to 5k with light throttle.I take it back sometime next week to see what I will be getting. At this point I just want them to buy the car back. Buy it back and ill go for a GT350 or a roush supercharged GT with a warranty.

If ford keeps letting me down then ill have do leave them once and for all.

For the record - Everyone in my family has a Ford. I have bought over 10 fords in the last 5 years. Depending on how all this goes this may be my last one.

If you have this noise go to your dealer. We need to bombard ford so they can fix this crap. They already tried to hide the RS screw up.

Edit - To add just look at the poll. The poll currently tells us that not everyone has this rattle so its not normal. We also see that most people havent taken it into the dealer to file a claim. So ford could be sitting on their hands with this one until people start going in.
 

FISHTAIL

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My car sits still. They said I can drive it but I really dont want to right now. My noise is worse now and I get the noise from 1k all the way to 5k with light throttle.I take it back sometime next week to see what I will be getting. At this point I just want them to buy the car back. Buy it back and ill go for a GT350 or a roush supercharged GT with a warranty.

If ford keeps letting me down then ill have do leave them once and for all.

For the record - Everyone in my family has a Ford. I have bought over 10 fords in the last 5 years. Depending on how all this goes this may be my last one.

If you have this noise go to your dealer. We need to bombard ford so they can fix this crap. They already tried to hide the RS screw up.

Edit - To add just look at the poll. The poll currently tells us that not everyone has this rattle so its not normal. We also see that most people havent taken it into the dealer to file a claim. So ford could be sitting on their hands with this one until people start going in.
When I had mine in for the oil leak, I asked about this rattle. They heard it, and said it was normal. Didn't give me any explanation though, nor did they document that they heard it, but unless there is a really high number of bad engines on this site, I suspect it's probably just DI noise most of us are hearing.

I still plan to mount my camera around to see if I can pinpoint the noise, and I do have a borescope so I'll check my cylinder walls eventually also. The noise mine makes is totally consistent with others here, and it never changes with temp, so I'd be surprised if it was piston slap. Piston slap should diminish with temp.
 

itguy08

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Do you mean in reference to the failing clutches, like that Rated R Youtube guy said? Or do you mean in general it was a new design for the 2018? Either Rated R was the only person that has said Ford is designing the clutch again which is why they're on back order.
The 18's get a dual mass flywheel and a new twin disk clutch.
http://www.motortrend.com/news/11-significant-changes-refreshed-2018-ford-mustang/

You can hear the noise also when the clutch is slipped in my car and in one of the other videos too so that's why I'm wondering if some of our noises is the clutch.

Looking at what a DMF does here: https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/3747/single-mass-vs-dual-mass-flywheel-why-convert/

it seems like there is a spring in the middle that could be rattling around on some of them.

I'm going to be waiting for the first guys who get their cars back after shortblocks to see if the noise is resolved.
 

itguy08

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The guy that started the other thread and left, got a buyback, he is replacing is manual that had the rattle with a 10R80 and said the new one also has the rattle.
I drove mine today and was cognizant of the sound. It is there when the motor is cold and for a bit after. After all temps were at normal operation the sound pretty much goes away for me. My car is an auto.
Thanks guys. There goes that theory. :(
 

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BLU2DSKY

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Me too. Don't want my car getting destroyed if Ford deems it "normal".
I am only concerned with whether or not we have motor damage. Ford is gonna call it whatever they want to save themselves embarassment and money.


All you guys with manual GTs, have you driven your cars hard? I'm curious if only some of us have grind or is it all of us. You can literally feel the clutch slip. Any up or down shift into 5k RPM causes me vibration in clutch and grind in the shifter. My honest guess is we all should have it based on that YouTube video.
 

cthomas5714

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I’ve driven my mine as hard as you can on the street (no track time though.) I downshift every shift and I do 1-3 WOT pulls more than once a day. There is another post floating around in here about the supply line from the break fluid to the firewall and if it slips off in the least bit you will have weird things happening when you shift. I used to get a grind on WOT shifts but after checking that line and pushing it all the way back on, all the grinding stopped. It wouldn’t hurt to check and steeda actually developed a replacement line for all those that feel they need it. It’s only 10$.
 

BladeGT

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I’ve driven my mine as hard as you can on the street (no track time though.) I downshift every shift and I do 1-3 WOT pulls more than once a day. There is another post floating around in here about the supply line from the break fluid to the firewall and if it slips off in the least bit you will have weird things happening when you shift. I used to get a grind on WOT shifts but after checking that line and pushing it all the way back on, all the grinding stopped. It wouldn’t hurt to check and steeda actually developed a replacement line for all those that feel they need it. It’s only 10$.
Thread link, or pics of location of said problem? Thanks. BTW,what does brake fluid have to do with the transmission?
 
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BLU2DSKY

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I’ve driven my mine as hard as you can on the street (no track time though.) I downshift every shift and I do 1-3 WOT pulls more than once a day. There is another post floating around in here about the supply line from the break fluid to the firewall and if it slips off in the least bit you will have weird things happening when you shift. I used to get a grind on WOT shifts but after checking that line and pushing it all the way back on, all the grinding stopped. It wouldn’t hurt to check and steeda actually developed a replacement line for all those that feel they need it. It’s only 10$.
Did you feel vibration in the clutch as well? If so, did that go away after securing the line?
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