I really hate factory installed strut bolts

damn i did springs on my 16 , and 17 and they came right out without a prob.. i used a framing hammer... i did have to turn the wheel a few times so i could get the right swing but they popped right out

I use an air hammer... Can have the front suspension blown apart in probably 15min.

helps to jack up the strut slightly to get some of the load off so it doesnt bind on the strut bolts

z06psi said:

8 pound hand sledge makes it easier.

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Exactly what I did. Tucked the handle up into my armpit so I could control it. 3 or 4 taps.

ForTehNguyen said:

helps to jack up the strut slightly to get some of the load off so it doesnt bind on the strut bolts

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Also, thread the nut onto the strut bolt backwards so it gives a bigger area to hit with hammer and doesn’t mushroom the head.

I feel for you. Seems like those either come right off or you’re fighting them. I hammered away at mine and gave up. I lifted it up to try to take pressure off the strut in increments and no luck.

I had the nut on the end as advised. All I did was end up stretching the bolt threads on one!

I had to call it quits and I had a local guy help me out installing my suspension.

Good luck if you go at again. Maybe a bigger hammer? Also I heard giving the other side of the bolt a couple taps can also help break it free.

Air hammer is the trick here. After my experience on my 11 (bad) I got an air hammer. Took about 10 minutes to have the struts out of my 16 per side.

You can turn the wheel also to get a better angle to get some solid blows on it

you can turn the wheel to get a better hitting angle on it too. I took mine out with a standard hammer

I used 5lbs hammer. I fliped the nut so the flange was hammered at the flush lever with bolt. one strongest wack popped the bolt all the way out. I initially hammgered the bolt with a 1lb hammer for 10 minutes but got nothing done.

I just used the flat of my palm...

HISSMAN said:

I just used the flat of my palm...

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I hope you don't masturbate with those hands......

Sorry to revive an old thread but I found it from a google search. Oh man these splined bolts are not fun. Lot's of good info in this thread but even with all the info I've gathered and used from it including turning the wheel, putting the nuts on flush and backwards and using a 4lb hammer, these things are not wanting to come off. I only got a few good wacks in since it's late and I didn't wanna piss off my neighborhood too much but they didn't budge. Gonna have to give em another round tomorrow in the day.

18basedGT said:

Sorry to revive an old thread but I found it from a google search. Oh man these splined bolts are not fun. Lot's of good info in this thread but even with all the info I've gathered and used from it including turning the wheel, putting the nuts on flush and backwards and using a 4lb hammer, these things are not wanting to come off. I only got a few good wacks in since it's late and I didn't wanna piss off my neighborhood too much but they didn't budge. Gonna have to give em another round tomorrow in the day.

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Did you try putting a little bit of upward force on them with a jack? Just enough to make it neutral.

You might need a BFH/real sledge.

I'm thinking that if you could preload these bolts with a large C-clamp (that you don't mind beating on the twist-handle end of) and a socket that clears the hex-head, this job might go a little easier. Or maybe fabricate a dedicated clamp of your own design for this very specific purpose.


Norm