Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

rocknstang said:

That looks like misleading labeling. There should be a dedicated channel going to each 6.5" in the lower doors. That's 2 channels from the amp.

There are 2 channels that feed the 3.5" mid in the upper door and the tweeter in the A pillars. That line is split (I believe) before the wire goes into the door.

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But is there a dedicated wire set going to the tweeters in the doors that are with the 6.5s?

z06psi said:

But is there a dedicated wire set going to the tweeters in the doors that are with the 6.5s?

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No tweets in the doors. See the OP pics in this thread.

rocknstang said:

No tweets in the doors. See the OP pics in this thread.

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Yeah I see that. The freaking wiring diagram is wrong. Thanks again.

z06psi said:

Yeah I see that. The freaking wiring diagram is wrong. Thanks again.

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Here's a better diagram for how the front stage is wired.


http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1757154&postcount=310

rocknstang said:

Here's a better diagram for how the front stage is wired.


http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1757154&postcount=310

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Looks like I need to run new wires to the pillars then for the tweets since they will be on their own dedicated amp and DSP channel.

z06psi said:

Looks like I need to run new wires to the pillars then for the tweets since they will be on their own dedicated amp and DSP channel.

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That seems to be a common approach. I didn't do my own install and I can't say for sure exactly what my installer did.

Thanks for your help. I want to have a plan before I start tearing into this thing.

z06psi said:

Thanks for your help. I want to have a plan before I start tearing into this thing.

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NP. I did the same thing. Read this thread multiple times bookmarking posts of interest. In the end I decided I was better off having an experienced installer do the work. Your plan sounds fantastic. I went 2 way components up front. No CC and no 3.5's. Sounds good. Not sure how different 3 ways would sound. Sometimes I wonder if the 6.5 is trying to do too much.

z06psi said:

Thanks for your help. I want to have a plan before I start tearing into this thing.

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Good to have a plan. I had to figure it out through experimentation. I did in the end get to figure it out.

the diagram refers to the premium 9 speaker shaker system.

I had a read through your questions.

The upper 3.5inch mids in the doors have a wire that runs from this mid directly to the tweeter. What I did was simply unplug the tweeter in the A pillar and ended up using a two way component set with the tweeter mounted where the midrange was positioned. If that makes sense? so one set of wires run to the 6.5 inch the other set to the midrange.

Also getting the signal from the head unit before it goes through the factory amplifier is a full range signal. You can take that full range signal through your own amplifier to the subwoofer and other speakers, most amplifiers have there own crossover and gain controls or you can use your own DSP.

z06psi said:

But is there a dedicated wire set going to the tweeters in the doors that are with the 6.5s?

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Technically yes, but not from the factory amplifier.
Midrange and tweeter have a passive crossover, so they are fed by one channel each side instead of two channels.
If you use a new two-way component set you can use the midrange wire to feed the tweeter, but remember to disable the factory passive crossover somewhere in the factory wiring then. Unfortunately i cannot tell you where the passive crossover is located. Imho it must be a condensator somewhere inline in the wire feeding the tweeter as this is the cheapest way to achive that.

Cathul said:

Technically yes, but not from the factory amplifier.
Midrange and tweeter have a passive crossover, so they are fed by one channel each side instead of two channels.
If you use a new two-way component set you can use the midrange wire to feed the tweeter, but remember to disable the factory passive crossover somewhere in the factory wiring then. Unfortunately i cannot tell you where the passive crossover is located. Imho it must be a condensator somewhere inline in the wire feeding the tweeter as this is the cheapest way to achive that.

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The passive crossover is a capacitor that is in the a pillar glued to the tweeter.

Then it's even more possible to use the midrange wiring for the new tweeter.

Cathul said:

Then it's even more possible to use the midrange wiring for the new tweeter.

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If you want a simple wiring diagram without cutting any wires make up a wiring loom using new mouser plugs and connect the 2 Way component crossovers without needing to install them in the door panels, as they can be mounted near the connectors where the factory amplifier sits and using existing speakers cables.

I used a JLfix DSP as I had a hiss coming from the head unit. I believe that this due to the sensitivity of my amplifier you can get away with not needing a DSP.

It was easier to use the wires to the midrange as the new wires to the tweeters by mounting the tweeters in the upper doors and simply unplugging the tweeter in the A pillar. You also do not need to pull the whole A pillar out to do this simply pry it loose from the top and you can get in there easily.

I did not bother installing rear speakers instead I removed them. The fronts on there own produce a nice full range signal with plenty of power and fill the car enough, this helps in choosing only a 4 channel amplifier. When adding a subwoofer to fill in the bottom end and give the system more feel and oomph you setup the crossover points so that the front doesn't get a full range signal which allows you to drive more clean power to the doors for volume without less vibration and the speakers handles more power as it does not have to take all the lower frequencies due to the subwoofers.


See my wiring diragram

Well, my own installation is finished and my installer reused all existing wiring for a full active 2-way system up front and a sub, but put the tweeters into the A-pillars. So this seems to work quite good.

Cathul said:

Technically yes, but not from the factory amplifier.
Midrange and tweeter have a passive crossover, so they are fed by one channel each side instead of two channels.
If you use a new two-way component set you can use the midrange wire to feed the tweeter, but remember to disable the factory passive crossover somewhere in the factory wiring then. Unfortunately i cannot tell you where the passive crossover is located. Imho it must be a condensator somewhere inline in the wire feeding the tweeter as this is the cheapest way to achive that.

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I am using active crossovers for all my stuff. I have a Morel 3 component set.

I will end up running entire new wires for the pillars. It's not hard and the cost is low. The entire interior will be out for all of this except the dash.