Review of BMR handling springs (SP083) paired with the Ford Performance track shocks

udcvsean · Jun 23, 2018

Just got my Ford Racing Track Dampers, SP763, and CB005 installed. Big thanks to [MENTION=10281]BmacIL[/MENTION] and [MENTION=19599]Bluemustang[/MENTION] as well. I’ve only driven it back on the highway but already it feels very planted and much more predictable than stock. It feels even more comfortable than stock because it doesn’t bounce and float like crazy anymore. The 7/8” drop is perfect for me as there’s still plenty of room in the front to avoid scraping my bumper, but it tightened up the wheel gap and the stance is perfect! Now that I’ve removed the dead weight (old dampers and springs) in my trunk, I’m going to hit up some twisties to test this setup further.

My installer recommended I wait a few days to let the springs settle before doing an alignment. Fine by me haha.

Radiation Joe · Jun 24, 2018

Thanks to all for these informative discussions. I've been trying to finalize a plan before making a final decision on springs/dampers/chassis mods for my EBPP. I had originally planned on the Steeda 555-4447 along with RLCA bearings. This discussion has convinced me that neither of those will be appropriate for my needs. I'm now planning on the CB005 and stock PP bushings.

Where I'm still a bit confused is with dampers. I'm a fan of Bilstein and have been waiting on a good S550 application. However, I'm leaning heavily towards the Ford track dampers with Steeda Ultralite GT springs. I expect the GT springs to give me a minimal drop (about 0.78" inch in front). I can use a spacer to get the rear ride height where I want it (between 0.5" - 0.75" drop). As I rarely track my cars anymore, I see little need to go any stiffer than the Ultralite Linears.

The way I see it, I have the choice of Bilstein or Ford track shocks in the rear. In the front I'm considering Bilstein, GT350 or Ford track. Can I get some opinions on these options? In particular, I'd like to know the difference between the GT350 and Ford track struts. I'm not considering any other dampers.

Thanks again.

SVT-DADDY · Jun 24, 2018

Radiation Joe said:
Thanks to all for these informative discussions. I've been trying to finalize a plan before making a final decision on springs/dampers/chassis mods for my EBPP. I had originally planned on the Steeda 555-4447 along with RLCA bearings. This discussion has convinced me that neither of those will be appropriate for my needs. I'm now planning on the CB005 and stock PP bushings.

Where I'm still a bit confused is with dampers. I'm a fan of Bilstein and have been waiting on a good S550 application. However, I'm leaning heavily towards the Ford track dampers with Steeda Ultralite GT springs. I expect the GT springs to give me a minimal drop (about 0.78" inch in front). I can use a spacer to get the rear ride height where I want it (between 0.5" - 0.75" drop). As I rarely track my cars anymore, I see little need to go any stiffer than the Ultralite Linears.

The way I see it, I have the choice of Bilstein or Ford track shocks in the rear. In the front I'm considering Bilstein, GT350 or Ford track. Can I get some opinions on these options? In particular, I'd like to know the difference between the GT350 and Ford track struts. I'm not considering any other dampers.

Thanks again.

I am pretty sure the valving is the same on the track pack and GT350 dampers. @BmacIL can probably confirm.

I really like my track pack dampers, haven't ridden in a Mustang will Bilsteins but I can't imagine how they would be better than the track pack units. They are VERY comfortable for the street and handle very well.

BmacIL · Jun 24, 2018

Radiation Joe said:
Thanks to all for these informative discussions. I've been trying to finalize a plan before making a final decision on springs/dampers/chassis mods for my EBPP. I had originally planned on the Steeda 555-4447 along with RLCA bearings. This discussion has convinced me that neither of those will be appropriate for my needs. I'm now planning on the CB005 and stock PP bushings.

Where I'm still a bit confused is with dampers. I'm a fan of Bilstein and have been waiting on a good S550 application. However, I'm leaning heavily towards the Ford track dampers with Steeda Ultralite GT springs. I expect the GT springs to give me a minimal drop (about 0.78" inch in front). I can use a spacer to get the rear ride height where I want it (between 0.5" - 0.75" drop). As I rarely track my cars anymore, I see little need to go any stiffer than the Ultralite Linears.

The way I see it, I have the choice of Bilstein or Ford track shocks in the rear. In the front I'm considering Bilstein, GT350 or Ford track. Can I get some opinions on these options? In particular, I'd like to know the difference between the GT350 and Ford track struts. I'm not considering any other dampers.

Thanks again.

The Ford Performance Track are GT350 valving/damping rates and are also monotube front and rear like the Bilstein. I'd expect both to be great, but the Ford Performance are a known quantity right now. Bilstein hasn't released their rears yet and eta is still up in the air as far as I know. I'd expect ~equal performance out of the Ford Performance, and they're quite affordable at $520 from Whitebear Lake Ford. It'll be nice when Bilstein gets their's done, though.

FYI I'd expect your drop to be between 7/8" and 1" in the front.

Radiation Joe · Jun 24, 2018

BmacIL said:
... FYI I'd expect your drop to be between 7/8" and 1" in the front.

Thanks for the help. I think you may be right about the drop in front. I keep telling myself that the EcoBoost is 150 lbs lighter in the front compared to the GT. On 200 lb/in springs that should produce slightly less than 3/8 inch increase in ride height compared to the GT. With those numbers my drop in front should be slightly more than 0.75 inch assuming the Steeda Ultralite Linears drop the GT by the advertised 1.125 inch.

If the EB front end weight is closer to the GT's weight I'll get closer to the GT's drop. I based my 150 lb difference on this post.

S550 corner weight comparisons

Darkhelmet22 · Jun 26, 2018

Well, this thread really made me question if I should get the LCA bearings or not... It's just a street car and I don't get any wheel hop.

Bluemustang · Jun 26, 2018

Darkhelmet22 said:
Well, this thread really made me question if I should get the LCA bearings or not... It's just a street car and I don't get any wheel hop.

I'd recommend if you are happy with your setup currently, do not do the LCA bearings. This is a serious modification with major repercussions on the feeling of the ride. It's not bad persay but you will feel every little thing in the rear of the car. So for this reason, it is not for folks who just want a smooth ride.

The LCA bearing will allow you to feel directly the impacts of the road into the rear suspension. If you have other mods (cradle lockout, etc.) this will become amplified into the driver. The rear end will feel infinitely more connected. There is some NVH associated with this, mostly harshness.

At times it's a good kind of harshness because it communicates to the driver what is happening. The rear end stays planted and doesn't float at all.

When I first did this mod, it felt like a completely different car, in a good way. It is night and day. It's hard to explain until you have driven it.

J.P.B. · Dec 26, 2018

I suspect that nobody is looking at this thread anymore, but since my initial review way back in June 2018, I have made a change (very positive) relevant to the original “critiques” of my suspension setup.

Following the suggestion of BmacIL (post #8), and others, I added the Steeda sub-frame braces (I already had the Steeda IRS bushing support kit). I did made this addition late in the season, but still had plenty of track time to evaluate the effect. I should have updated my review sooner, but I figure better-late-than-never!

I am happy to report that the added rigidity had a profound effect w.r.t. all three issues I reported back in June.

The updates to my review:

The biggest issue was with on-track performance (critique No. 2); there was some tendency for the GT to feel a delayed response (in the form of unwanted chassis movement) to my inputs or changes in the track surface. It was a high speed & hard cornering effect, and it did NOT inspire confidence. I am delighted to report that this is almost entirely corrected!!!

I had commented that the car still “felt big” (critique No. 1); especially relative to the BOSS 302 on the same track. Controlling the IRS with the sub-frame braces has really transformed the feel of the GT at high speeds, and over the rougher sections of the track; the GT now “feels lighter” because it is more composed.

Lastly, I talked about chassis “signal-to-noise” ratio and cornering dynamics (critique No. 3). Again, I had felt that the BOSS 302 (on the same track) was superior in this area. And again, controlling the IRS has corrected this issue!

Non-scientific comparisons to the BOSS 302 and a GT-350:

In all three areas above, I now prefer my GT to the BOSS 302. It feels just as planted. With all the suspension upgrades (see post #1) it seems to deal better with those rougher patches of our road course.

Before adding the sub-frame braces I had the chance to drive a GT-350 (sadly, not the R, and not on the track) for about 30 mins under a variety of conditions. At that time, I thought that rear of the GT-350 felt distinctly more “planted” than the GT; the GT-350 just felt better. I can now say the sub-frame braces have corrected this. Furthermore, and it’s subjective, I think my GT with all the suspension upgrades feels better. While I think my GT is just a little harsher than the GT-350 over some breaks in pavement at slow speeds, I think my car is now actually a little better than the GT-350 at higher speeds. On the street there are a few breaks in pavement that used to bother me, and I now speed up just a little because I like the crisp “one-up-one-down” feeling I get from my car! I think my GT could be better than the GT-350 in these situations, and many others.

There was a time when I would have sold my car for a used GT-350 in a heartbeat. After adding the sub-frame braces (with all the suspension upgrades), and upgrading my tires (more about this below), I can honestly say that I am not so sure I want to trade up anymore!!!

Final thoughts on suspension and tires:

Two changes (made at different times) had profound affects on both the feeling of the GT and reducing lap times: (1) adding the sub-frame braces [described above] and (2) better tire compound [even though it meant going a little smaller on tire width]. These changes were made at different times, and I had plenty of track time to evaluate both.

My local track is the Atlantic Motorsport Park (the “other AMP”). It’s a short and highly technical track (widely viewed as the most technical track in Canada). It’s generally agreed that lap times at 1:20 or less are very fast for anyone in a car that is driven to the track. The change in tire and the added sub-frame bracing each had big effects, and I am now running in the 1:21’s when the track conditions are good.

My prior tire set up was a square stance 275 18X10 Bridgestone Sport Comp 2. Because I burned through those late in the season, my first choice for a tire upgrade was no longer available. So, I ended up going with a square stance 265/40R18 Hancook RS4s set up (a much better tire, but a little smaller tread width).

What I knew in theory, but somehow did not really appreciate, is how fantastic a properly upgraded S550 suspension & chassis really is; the suspension and chassis of my GT was way way better than the tire, and I just had no way to appreciate what this car could actually do until I got tires that did it justice!

NightmareMoon · Dec 26, 2018

Yup tires make a hell of a lot of difference and the RS4s are begging for the abuse. Try for some 295s next time?

BmacIL · Dec 26, 2018

J.P.B. said:
I suspect that nobody is looking at this thread anymore, but since my initial review way back in June 2018, I have made a change (very positive) relevant to the original “critiques” of my suspension setup.

Following the suggestion of BmacIL (post #8), and others, I added the Steeda sub-frame braces (I already had the Steeda IRS bushing support kit). I did made this addition late in the season, but still had plenty of track time to evaluate the effect. I should have updated my review sooner, but I figure better-late-than-never!

I am happy to report that the added rigidity had a profound effect w.r.t. all three issues I reported back in June.

The updates to my review:

The biggest issue was with on-track performance (critique No. 2); there was some tendency for the GT to feel a delayed response (in the form of unwanted chassis movement) to my inputs or changes in the track surface. It was a high speed & hard cornering effect, and it did NOT inspire confidence. I am delighted to report that this is almost entirely corrected!!!

I had commented that the car still “felt big” (critique No. 1); especially relative to the BOSS 302 on the same track. Controlling the IRS with the sub-frame braces has really transformed the feel of the GT at high speeds, and over the rougher sections of the track; the GT now “feels lighter” because it is more composed.

Lastly, I talked about chassis “signal-to-noise” ratio and cornering dynamics (critique No. 3). Again, I had felt that the BOSS 302 (on the same track) was superior in this area. And again, controlling the IRS has corrected this issue!

Non-scientific comparisons to the BOSS 302 and a GT-350:

In all three areas above, I now prefer my GT to the BOSS 302. It feels just as planted. With all the suspension upgrades (see post #1) it seems to deal better with those rougher patches of our road course.

Before adding the sub-frame braces I had the chance to drive a GT-350 (sadly, not the R, and not on the track) for about 30 mins under a variety of conditions. At that time, I thought that rear of the GT-350 felt distinctly more “planted” than the GT; the GT-350 just felt better. I can now say the sub-frame braces have corrected this. Furthermore, and it’s subjective, I think my GT with all the suspension upgrades feels better. While I think my GT is just a little harsher than the GT-350 over some breaks in pavement at slow speeds, I think my car is now actually a little better than the GT-350 at higher speeds. On the street there are a few breaks in pavement that used to bother me, and I now speed up just a little because I like the crisp “one-up-one-down” feeling I get from my car! I think my GT could be better than the GT-350 in these situations, and many others.

There was a time when I would have sold my car for a used GT-350 in a heartbeat. After adding the sub-frame braces (with all the suspension upgrades), and upgrading my tires (more about this below), I can honestly say that I am not so sure I want to trade up anymore!!!

Final thoughts on suspension and tires:

Two changes (made at different times) had profound affects on both the feeling of the GT and reducing lap times: (1) adding the sub-frame braces [described above] and (2) better tire compound [even though it meant going a little smaller on tire width]. These changes were made at different times, and I had plenty of track time to evaluate both.

My local track is the Atlantic Motorsport Park (the “other AMP”). It’s a short and highly technical track (widely viewed as the most technical track in Canada). It’s generally agreed that lap times at 1:20 or less are very fast for anyone in a car that is driven to the track. The change in tire and the added sub-frame bracing each had big effects, and I am now running in the 1:21’s when the track conditions are good.

My prior tire set up was a square stance 275 18X10 Bridgestone Sport Comp 2. Because I burned through those late in the season, my first choice for a tire upgrade was no longer available. So, I ended up going with a square stance 265/40R18 Hancook RS4s set up (a much better tire, but a little smaller tread width).

What I knew in theory, but somehow did not really appreciate, is how fantastic a properly upgraded S550 suspension & chassis really is; the suspension and chassis of my GT was way way better than the tire, and I just had no way to appreciate what this car could actually do until I got tires that did it justice!

I am really glad to hear all this! This car is amazing to drive when setup well and the IRS is controlled well. It's hard to overstate that second part.

BmacIL · Dec 26, 2018

Another thing I would highly recommend considering is bearings at all 8 of the main suspension pick-up points. These will not only drastically reduce geometric change during weight transfer, but also reduce bind for a overall improved ride (though it comes with a bit more road feel and impact noise). The stock GT PP has bearings at the lateral link (rearward of the front arms) and the furthest rear point of the rear control arm, so 4 of 8. J&M and Steeda both sell the tension link (forward most front arm) bearings, and Optimum Performance sells arms with the bearings already installed. Steeda does as well, with the option of front roll center correction (which will also require their bumpsteer correction kit). BMR and Steeda both sell bearings for the rear control arm point. The car will feel lighter, more responsive and more precise.

Norm Peterson · Dec 27, 2018

J.P.B. said:
My prior tire set up was a square stance 275 18X10 Bridgestone Sport Comp 2. Because I burned through those late in the season, my first choice for a tire upgrade was no longer available. So, I ended up going with a square stance 265/40R18 Hancook RS4s set up (a much better tire, but a little smaller tread width).

What I knew in theory, but somehow did not really appreciate, is how fantastic a properly upgraded S550 suspension & chassis really is; the suspension and chassis of my GT was way way better than the tire, and I just had no way to appreciate what this car could actually do until I got tires that did it justice!

Just wait until you move the wheel and tire package further up.

10" wide is a pretty good place to be for 265/40's, but for 285/xx or wider you'll want more wheel. At least PP2 spec, though 11" square would likely be better still.

Yeah, it's easy to spend other peoples' money.

Norm

Red65 · Dec 27, 2018

Norm Peterson said:
Just wait until you move the wheel and tire package further up.

10" wide is a pretty good place to be for 265/40's, but for 285/xx or wider you'll want more wheel. At least PP2 spec, though 11" square would likely be better still.

Yeah, it's easy to spend other peoples' money.

Norm

Just out of curiosity, what are the downsides to running a 285 tire on a 10 inch wheel? I only ask because I have the premium foundry 8.5 wheels with 265's and I was looking at getting a square 10 inch setup with 285's since that seems to be a very popular setup.

Norm Peterson · Dec 27, 2018

285's on 10's is a common fitment partly because it's an easier fitment and partly because wheel supply houses nearly always err on the side of conservatism (narrower rather than wider) to avoid returns and bad internet reviews.

But tires are better-behaved in the corners when they're stretched out a little wider than "measuring width". They're a bit more precise, and steering/turn-in response is improved. This is something I've been aware of since the early 1970's, but there's actually an article in one of the recent issues of SCCA's monthly magazine concerning this specific topic of wheel width vs tire size that basically says the same thing.

I won't try to kid you, the wider you go with the wheels (especially up front) the fussier things like offsets and tire heights get, so there's less room for error. Ford has this figured out for the PP2, as I think Vorshlag and Apex both have on the aftermarket side.

FWIW, I have 265/40-18 MPSS tires on the 18x9.5 SVT/GT500 wheels (tread width given as 10.2"), and they have a decidedly "softer" feel at a little over 0.8 lateral g's than the 285/35's (also 10.2" tread width) on 18x11's have at over 0.9 lateral g's over the same test loop. There's more difference going from "measuring width" to "max-recommended width" than can be explained by the 285's having about 3/16" less sidewall height.

Norm

sdiver68 · Dec 27, 2018

TheLion said:
The vertical movement of the IRS is already well controlled by the steeda lock out collars which work just fine and don't permit any vertical deflection (up into the chassis or down away from it), but they do nothing to control the fore, after, or lateral movement which is entirely handled by their tubular supports all of which is transmitted to the bend radius which acts kinda like a sway-bar that resists lateral movement of the

There are other ways to lock out the IRS sub-frame which are more effective and lower in weight. Each has it's pros and cons. The Ford Performance sub-frame bushings fully lock out the IRS movement in a very similar way to BMR's CB005, but they are a permanent and involved modification as the replace the stock IRS sub-frame to chassis bushings entirely.

The BMR CB005 aluminum top rings lock the crowned center tube in the stock sub-frame to chassis bushings to the sub-frame itself, thus preventing their movement. The concept is the same as the Ford Performance Aluminum Sub-frame bushings, but it's not permanent if you want to return it to factory and is much easier to install because your just sliding a few locking rings over the existing bushings.

It controls by far the majority of the sub-frame movement and adds only 4 lbs. The entire kit weighs 6.5 lbs, but your replacing the stock front bushing to sub-frame supports with their own supports. The stock supports weigh about 1.25 lbs each so your net weight gain is only 4 lbs. It's easy to install, self centers the IRS (the BMR supports double as alignment bushings to the front two bolt holes). It's by far the most efficient IRS lock out kit on the market.

Wait. I cannot use CB005 or Steeda Subframe brace. Neither fit a vert.

So are you saying that CB010 would be better overall for handling than Steeda Subframe bushing + alignment kit?

Review of BMR handling springs (SP083) paired with the Ford Performance track shocks

udcvsean

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Radiation Joe

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Darkhelmet22

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J.P.B.

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NightmareMoon

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