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[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

SlaughterOfTheSoul

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The GT350 IM appears to use the same sensors that the 15-17 IM uses which would mean that the voltage is the same so no adjustments will be needed.

I'm pretty confident that tuners will be able to adjust the target voltages so that everything will work correctly. Only reason I'm going to try the resistor method tomorrow(Which I don't think will work) is because I have plenty of extra parts, since I ordered enough to make 20 sets of adaptors, and I'm impatient and want to get my car running correctly but Lund isn't open until Monday.
If you tell me more about the circuit then I can tell you how to handle it.

In the mean time, if you want that voltage to read lower then measure the current going through that circuit. From there, you use V=IR to get the voltage drop for that resistor. Since we want to drop .4vdc then it would be I(measured)*R(calculated)=.4vdc. You sound like you may already realize this, but it's worth noting.

We may run into the issue where the sensor impedance is too high as it is, thus the voltage drop across it is reading to high. If that's the case, you'll gave to drop its effective impedance by 20% to be effective which may affect the operation.

Otherwise we could probably just scale it with a simple op-amp circuit.
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S550MG

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I finished my install yesterday and it all went fairly smooth, with the exception of a few bobbles, lol. I’ll cover those in my write up.

I flashed my Lund tune and took it for a drive to the store. I wasn’t romping on it too hard or anything however I did get on it a little from 2500-5500 rpms and it felt good, pretty normal actually. So on the way him I decided I would test the new manifold and take it up to 7800 rpm. I went WOT in second gear and it immediately felt weird, very sluggish, like a noticeable loss of torque. I looked down and sure enough my CEL was on. I data logged a couple more runs and came on home. The code I’m getting is P2008, IMRC controller circuit open.

So I cleared the code and decided to take it for another spin, I got on it hard this time. It ran great! No sluggishness no CEL issues and it pulled hard all the way to 7800!! After getting gas and heading home the CEL came back on and it went sluggish on me again. Checked the code at home, P2008 again.

I data logged my runs and have sent them to Lund to look over so I hope to have some answers tomorrow.

I guess I should mention my setup, I bought the pigtails and soldered them onto my harness. All solder joints are good and strong. I’m only running one of the solenoid connectors, the other one is sealed up and hanging. My vacuum routing is the same as factory. I’m trying to leave the IMRC’s operational.

One thing that weird is that now I hear a whistle noise coming from under the hood when I tip in he throttle, I never heard that before the manifold install. I also did a sound tube delete at the same time but I wouldn’t think that would matter. I don’t think it’s my wiring or vacuum because it runs great on the first key cycle but then thE CEL comes on after the second start and key cycle.

While I’m waiting to hear back Lund I’m going to swap connectors and see if the code switches to the other IMRC.
 
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BULL1TT

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The sensor that detect if the flaps are opened or closed put out a voltage that the ECU reads and determines the state of the flaps.
These sensors are the 3 pin connectors that are separate on the 15-17 IM and integrated on the 18 IM.
The voltages I'm going to be referencing are rounded and will vary from car to car slightly.

I looked at datalog I took with my 2015 IM and the IMRC Sensors are putting out 1.16v when they are closed and 4.00v when they are opened. On the 2018 IM the sensors are putting out 1.45v when they are closed and 3.39v when they are opened. Now this is causing a issue because while driving around the ECU is looking for 1.16v to verify that the IMRC's are fully closed but instead they are getting 1.45v which makes the ECU believe that the IMRC's aren't fully closing. Because it detects this issue it will revert to a permanent open state and give the P2005 code that they are stuck open because it never seems them as fully closed.

Now for possible solutions. I don't know if the voltage that the ECU is looking for are adjustable in the the tune. If they are then the tune will just need to be adjusted to the new voltage's that way the ECU correctly determines the state of the IMRC's. The other solution would be to add a resistor in the wiring harness to reduce the 1.45v to 1.16v that the ECU is expecting to see. The possible issue with doing this is that the open voltage, which reads 0.61v low on the 2018 IM, will be even lower which will make the ECU think that the IMRC's aren't opening all the way.

Tomorrow I plan on trying the resistor method with the adapters that I'm developing and we'll see if the ECU is happy once I bring the closed voltage closer to the original reading.
I posted about this a few messages back when GTBOB posted the logged voltages from his 2018. Could we just make a simple circuit that flops from 1.1 to 4. Disconnect the imrc sensors completely and have the circuit output 1.1 and then when the imrc solenoid is given 12v, have the circuit output 4v. Or vice versa, I'm not sure if the solenoid is activated when open or closed.
 

BULL1TT

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I guess I should mention my setup, I bought the pigtails and soldered them onto my harness. All solder joints are good and strong. I’m only running one of the solenoid connectors, the other one is sealed up and hanging. My vacuum routing is the same as factory. I’m trying to leave the IMRC’s operational.
I believe that it was determined that the solenoid connectors need to be wired together in order to not throw a code
 

S550MG

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I believe that it was determined that the solenoid connectors need to be wired together in order to not throw a code
I read that but I was thinking it was only necessary for those guys that were trying to run the stock tune or frpp tunes.

I’m hoping Lund can tune this out. I don’t think I’ll have enough room to wire those connectors without pulling the manifold, definitely don’t want to do that.

Edit:

I swapped the connectors and had the same pattern of events. First drive was great but second drive after clearing codes resulted in sluggish performance again and the CEL coming back on. I checked the code when I got home and its a P2011, same IMRC circuit open just on the other solenoid. So it's definitely that connector that's hanging loose. I'll see if Lund can account for this in the tune. If not I guess I'll be wiring the connectors together. It won't be the end of the world, I was just hoping I wouldn't have to pull the manifold. Maybe I'll get lucky and have enough space to do it without pulling the manifold.
 
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Some pulls after 2018 intake and PMAS install.

Exhaust mic attached to bumper.


How is the intake tube fitment considering the tb is angled up?
 

Amaury

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I was thinking about getting an angled coupler but not idea if it will affect performance...
 

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sstone

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It came undone and the car died originally. Have to put the intake tube into the coupler at an angle and tighen it down for it to sit in there right. If someone made a 10 degree coupler it would make it fit perfect.
Exactly the same here. If your engine starts revving itself at idle up to 1100-1150 when already warm, check that your hood didn’t dislodge the intake. I learned the hard way a few times to push the intake tube way in, use some rubber sealer, and clamp the hell out of it.
 

re-rx7

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guys just do the lock outs slight difference in Tq in 2nd gear low end past that nothing with cai, exhaust and the 18 manifold I'm running 510hp to the crank which is about 450whp. no dyno yet this is a ball park number my buddie has 430whp and I was pulling on him
How does it drive with the lockouts?
 

Xavier

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I received my manifold from Hellhorse Performance a couple of days ago. It had a ton of bubble wrap around it and everything appears to be intact. Definitely glad I ordered from them.
 

re-rx7

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Car drives fine with lockouts. Even in 6th gear cruising at 65-70 on the highway, it accelerates just like normal at part throttle. I bought the pigtails with the intent of splicing them in. Not going to do that anymore. This website made me believe that these imrc's were the key to low end torque. Its not the case.

Use a couple of zip ties to hold them open and be done with it.
Did you do any tune revisions? Thanks for the review and quick reply.
 

MaskedRacerX

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Some pulls after 2018 intake and PMAS install.

Exhaust mic attached to bumper.
Nice!

Sounds great, _runs_ great, amazing how strong it seems between 7K and 8K. I'm running a custom tune (intake mods, catback), with a 7.6K redline, but you can feel the car start to run out of air short of that.
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