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1st DYI oil change and my thoughts.

galaxy

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I have not read one report of issues with the drain plug. So this might be a bit of overkill.
Completely agree. I didn’t do it one single bit because I heard of drain plug issues or because I’m all paranoid about it. 100% did it because it’s cool and I like safety wire. I used to be a motorcycle track junkie and I think one of the clubs I was in required (or highly preferred) the drain plug be safety wired. Got the idea from that.

I have the canister type filter on my ‘17 and with the nut end on the canister, it’s safety wired too. Just didn’t have any good pics of it.
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loco_GT350

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Here is video I found. Tightening the clamp nut while the car on the ground looks like it would be difficult.
You will have to put the car on jacks stands to do this. You might be able to get away with just jacking up the drivers side (using stands for safety) but not sure. When I last changed my oil I saw a little oil leaking from the back of the belly pan. I jacked up just the drivers side of the car and I was able to get to the access door as well as check the filter. The good news was the oil leak was nothing more then some oil that had spilled onto the belly pan when I changed the filter.
 

Joec410

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I only have 700 miles on my car, so I haven't changed the oil yet. I have read to make sure the filter is torqued properly. Can some inform me what is different with this engine and filter than other filter changes? Why is it prone to loosening?

All my other vehicles I have just installed the filter and tightened it with my hand.
 

aham23

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I only have 700 miles on my car, so I haven't changed the oil yet. I have read to make sure the filter is torqued properly. Can some inform me what is different with this engine and filter than other filter changes? Why is it prone to loosening?

All my other vehicles I have just installed the filter and tightened it with my hand.
how many other FPC 5.2L NA vibrating machines have you owned?
 

Ninjak

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Interesting. I thought the 17's had the canister. I know my vehicle had a canister with cartridge instead of the screw in oil filter.

Nice trick with the clamp.
 

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Zombo

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'17's built in 2016 have the original spin on type.
 

galaxy

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Interesting. I thought the 17's had the canister. I know my vehicle had a canister with cartridge instead of the screw in oil filter.

Nice trick with the clamp.
Terminology. I’d say canister = cartridge. I have a cartridge, not a traditional, spin on filter. The swap was made sometime in 17, so you can theoretically ripen across 17’s with either type.
 

Joec410

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Terminology. I’d say canister = cartridge. I have a cartridge, not a traditional, spin on filter. The swap was made sometime in 17, so you can theoretically ripen across 17’s with either type.
Thank you I will have to check which one I have mine was built in CY2017 so maybe I have the canister style.
 

aham23

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BUILT IN 2017 = CANISTER.
 
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Nfs1000f

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I have not read one report of issues with the drain plug. So this might be a bit of overkill.
The way I see it, I am spending $120 on oil and filter, what's another $2.99.
 

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JAJ

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...Can some inform me what is different with this engine and filter than other filter changes? Why is it prone to loosening?

All my other vehicles I have just installed the filter and tightened it with my hand.
I'll answer your perfectly rational question a little more directly. The 5.2 FPC engine has a lot of high frequency harmonic vibrations that are carefully filtered out of the chassis by the engine and transmission mounts. If you look under the car, it's littered with counterweights and damping devices.

If you have a spin-on filter (and your new car probably doesn't - they switched to cartridge filters in mid-2017) you have to use the Motorcraft filter and you have to torque it to 16-18 ft-lbs. Otherwise it'll loosen from the vibrations and you'll pump all your oil out onto the road.

The Motorcraft filter has oil-proof thread locking compound on the threads to keep it attached once it's torqued properly. There are similar aftermarket filters that will fit the same, but there's no guarantee they'll stay on.
 

Zombo

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This was new to me - thread locker on the oil filter threads - just checked one, there is a red coating on the threads. I appreciate the info!
 

Joec410

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I'll answer your perfectly rational question a little more directly. The 5.2 FPC engine has a lot of high frequency harmonic vibrations that are carefully filtered out of the chassis by the engine and transmission mounts. If you look under the car, it's littered with counterweights and damping devices.

If you have a spin-on filter (and your new car probably doesn't - they switched to cartridge filters in mid-2017) you have to use the Motorcraft filter and you have to torque it to 16-18 ft-lbs. Otherwise it'll loosen from the vibrations and you'll pump all your oil out onto the road.

The Motorcraft filter has oil-proof thread locking compound on the threads to keep it attached once it's torqued properly. There are similar aftermarket filters that will fit the same, but there's no guarantee they'll stay on.
JAJ,

Thank you, this was exactly the type information I was looking for. I am going to look at my car tonight and confirm that it has the canister filter, which it probably has.

Thanks,

Joe
 

tom185

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I'll answer your perfectly rational question a little more directly. The 5.2 FPC engine has a lot of high frequency harmonic vibrations that are carefully filtered out of the chassis by the engine and transmission mounts. If you look under the car, it's littered with counterweights and damping devices.

If you have a spin-on filter (and your new car probably doesn't - they switched to cartridge filters in mid-2017) you have to use the Motorcraft filter and you have to torque it to 16-18 ft-lbs. Otherwise it'll loosen from the vibrations and you'll pump all your oil out onto the road.

The Motorcraft filter has oil-proof thread locking compound on the threads to keep it attached once it's torqued properly. There are similar aftermarket filters that will fit the same, but there's no guarantee they'll stay on.
That's good info on the locking compound. I've replaced two spin on filters and I will be doing a 3rd in a couple of months. Based on my experience with the first two, I am a believer that when the filter is properly torqued to Ford's specs it won't move at all. I've witness-marked both and the witness lines stayed dead nuts aligned through many miles. I usually torque on the higher end at 18 ft-lb. It's cheap insurance to put the clamp on (I think it's a great idea) but I think a lot of the issues with the filters working themselves off was caused by faulty torque and even tales of hand tightening early on and the voodoo made quick work of vibrating the filter off. I cant recall that I've heard of one working its way off in quite a while and I think that's because there was a LOT of communication about following the correct torque spec and many future issues were probably averted.
 

r1racer

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I used to be a motorcycle track junkie and I think one of the clubs I was in required (or highly preferred) the drain plug be safety wired. Got the idea from that.
same here and still am...good idea.
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