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Braski

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I had this airaid filter for awhile but finally took the 2 seconds to put it on. It definitely looks better than the yellow paper filter. I'm sure it should be good for a tenth or two in the 1/4 mile!:headbonk:
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I had this airaid filter for awhile but finally took the 2 seconds to put it on. It definitely looks better than the yellow paper filter. I'm sure it should be good for a tenth or two in the 1/4 mile!:headbonk:
I think for a street / strip car your build choices are SPOT on. There's a reason FP has the track record they do, some of the most reliable non-factory tuning out there. While they may not always be the absolute fastest, your engine has a far higher probability of lasting a normal service life without a completely new rotating assembly internally.

PP3 however offers more total power under the curve and allows you to stay in gear longer while making that power, it also has a flatter torque curve, which allows better use of the power traction wise (peakier torque curves make it more difficult to maintain traction and put down all the power). The Gen 2 5.0 (I also have a PP 6M, so same car as yours, just in Ruby Red) uses the valve springs, connecting rods, crank and valve lift from the Road Runner 5.0 in the S197 BOSS 302 which reved out to 7400 RPM and made power all the way up. Maybe that would be a nice next logical step if your not going FI?

I integrated the area under the power curves based on Moto IQ's dyno's (same car, they dynoed stock, PP1, PP2 and PP3), the PP3 makes 13% more power than a stock Gen 2 5.0 and has a dreamy flat torque curve. I'll be going that route once the car is paid off and it becomes a fun only car. But for near term I'll probably go PP2 while it's a daily. That's some great racing and I wasn't expecting the PP2 to knock off 1/2 a second alone. But I suppose 20 peak horse power and nearly 40+ midrange HP and a higher rev limit (stock is 6800, PP2 is 7150) will do that ;-). Looking forward to PP2 this year!

I'm also running the BMR SP080 springs on stock PP struts, MM caster / camber plates, BMR CB05 cradle lockout kit, FP Toe Link Bearings. Very similar to your setup. What other IRS mods did you end up doing?
 
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Thanks, I'm still very happy with the set up. I did the vert links, rear toe rods, diff bushings, cradle lockout, camber link, springs, frpp axles and Ford's replacement toe link bearing. I think thats it off the top of my head, pretty much everything thing bmr makes except there sway bars because my car is a PP car. I went a little over board but I couldn't stand the wheel hop. Unfortunately for my wallet it's time to upgrade the clutch, flywheel and shifter!:headbonk:
 
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Thanks, I'm still very happy with the set up. I did the vert links, rear toe rods, diff bushings, cradle lockout, camber link, springs, frpp axles and Ford's replacement toe link bearing. I think thats it off the top of my head, pretty much everything thing bmr makes except there sway bars because my car is a PP car. I went a little over board but I couldn't stand the wheel hop. Unfortunately for my wallet it's time to upgrade the clutch, flywheel and shifter!:headbonk:
That's the big flaw of the GT when it comes to out of the box performance compared to the 2016+ Camaro SS, the gold standard of Muscle Car performance. The GT's IRS compliance and stock Pirellie tires are a huge disadvantage in allowing it to get the power down. But the SS has other issues...some of which there's nothing you can do to fix.

With the LS 6.2 in the 2016 SS, which uses direct injection, the Gen 2 5.0 is outclassed in it's stock form. But it's very conservatively tuned. There's a ton of potential left in that engine. The 2018 5.0's are about on par with the 6.2L in area under the curve, if not a little more. PP2 basically puts you just a little ahead of the LS 6.2 in terms of area under the curve and your results prove just that. Fastest 6M 2017 SS was 12.1 with a -800 DA...you beat that with I'm guessing a worse DA, the only power adder being the PP2.
 
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Thanks, I'm still very happy with the set up. I did the vert links, rear toe rods, diff bushings, cradle lockout, camber link, springs, frpp axles and Ford's replacement toe link bearing. I think thats it off the top of my head, pretty much everything thing bmr makes except there sway bars because my car is a PP car. I went a little over board but I couldn't stand the wheel hop. Unfortunately for my wallet it's time to upgrade the clutch, flywheel and shifter!:headbonk:
BTW also look at 60 foot times. The GT's 60 foot times of the fastest cars are much better than the SS's even if the SS ends up with the same or better 1/4 mile. That's evidence of it's tall 1st gear. But 1st can be a bit short on street tires, you just can't put the full power down. You knocked off .4 seconds with DR's alone...
 
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Wow, you did a lot more research than I did. If I would of known how bad the IRS was on the mustang I might of went with a camaro. But that's water under the bridge now since all the BMR mods, now she hooks n books! I wasn't to concerned about HP because I new a tune would wake up the sleeping coyote!:headbang:
 

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Wow, you did a lot more research than I did. If I would of known how bad the IRS was on the mustang I might of went with a camaro. But that's water under the bridge now since all the BMR mods, now she hooks n books! I wasn't to concerned about HP because I new a tune would wake up the sleeping coyote!:headbang:
The SS is a great performing car indeed. If you want a performance oriented American sports car, it's hard to beat it at it's price point. Sure, you can take any car and modify it, some cars have more inherent potential than others, but GM did a really good job balancing power vs. handling. But it comes at some costs, it's a very cramped car with almost no storage space, visibility is bad, so it's practicality really suffers. Seems to be the trade off.

The real question is, can we make a GT perform as well as the SS for just a few thousand dollars and have the best of both worlds at the same or similar total price point?
 
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Just a little update, I ended up getting a mcleod rst clutch with a lightened steel flywheel, ss line and new slave cylinder and a mgw shifter. So far everything feels pretty good. I actually liked the stock shifter but the mgw does feel a step above for sure. I don't like the push down for reverse though. The 4-5 shift is absolutely amazing though! The clutch feels good but does make some noise when engaging in reverse. I'm only about half way through the break in period so I will report back when everything is fully broken in and again after I put everything to the test at the track!
Overall I think all the mods a are well suited for my build. I'm still contemplating going FI, I just don't know if I want another set of problems. I'm still an alignment away from being 100% satisfied with all my IRS upgrades . Any insight on a painless FI installation would be welcomed!
 
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Here's a pic of my new MGW x-spec standard shifter with the stainless gripper knob and stainless 5.0 top insert!:love:
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Did the clutch quiet down for you? Im looking for a clutch and RST is high on my list!

Matt
 
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Did the clutch quiet down for you? Im looking for a clutch and RST is high on my list!

Matt
Yes it did, smooth as butter even in reverse now! I would recommend doing the shifter, ss line, lightened flywheel and slave cylinder at the same time. I have no complaints with this round of mods. I'm looking forward to fall to go to the track and let er rip! :cheers:
 

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I got a 17 GT PP shadow black too, I’m doing mostly standard upgrades for now, exhaust, wheels, better tires, some of the lighting. Nothing performance on the engine. All you have is cold air and tune from FRPP?
 
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I got a 17 GT PP shadow black too, I’m doing mostly standard upgrades for now, exhaust, wheels, better tires, some of the lighting. Nothing performance on the engine. All you have is cold air and tune from FRPP?
All I have engine wise is the FRPP 2 which is a bigger throttle body, cai and tune. I picked up 5 mph in the 1/4 with it!
 

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That’s acually pretty good, I didn’t see much value in those pp upgrades, I guess I’ll have to take another look.

Did you put a one piece drveshaft in?Clutch? I read you did a lot of the suspension to get rid of the wheel hop, I’m kinda at that point now, but don’t know where to start. Seems there are so many flimsy bushings and parts under the car lol

Thanks for the response.
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