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2018 GT low rpm engine rattle, cylinder damage pics, Ford buyback process

Do you have engine rattle in low rpm range that sounds like mine?

  • Yes, but have not taken it to dealer

    Votes: 146 42.6%
  • Yes, but dealer said it was normal

    Votes: 54 15.7%
  • Yes, Ford approved short block, long block or whole engine

    Votes: 22 6.4%
  • Yes, other repair was performed

    Votes: 7 2.0%
  • No

    Votes: 114 33.2%

  • Total voters
    343

GT Pony

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In UK it's Castrol Magnatec 5W-20

Australian S550s get 5W-30 for both the Ecoboost 4-cyl and the Coyote V8 per their owner's manual. Maybe because it's hotter there more often. Nothing different about the guts of Coyote V8 between the countries.


Castrol Magnatec is a good oil. :thumbsup:
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BladeGT

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Im seeing more threads pop up about engine rattle and ticking lately. This is just depressing...Not only do i have the rattle, i have the click as well when engine is up to temp....FML:rant: Seriously WTF!?! Here's an example of the clicking. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103994
 

zackmd1

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Im seeing more threads pop up about engine rattle and ticking lately. This is just depressing...Not only do i have the rattle, i have the click as well when engine is up to temp....FML:rant: Seriously WTF!?! Here's an example of the clicking. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103994
Guys.... it’s a direct injected DOHC engine.... It is going to have ticks and rattles here and there. That to me sounds like the high pressure fuel pump at idle or something else in the valve train but not problematic. You have a power train warranty for 60,000 miles in the event that it is an actual issue. My opinion is that there is no sense in getting all worked up about it now. Drive the car and enjoy it and if it does break deal with it then. I for one am not eager to have a Ford tech attempt any diagnosis let alone a full engine replacement. Down the road I might inspect the engine myself (using a borescope) and if there is actually damage to the cylinder walls I’ll deal with it but for right now I am going to enjoy the car!
 
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bigriver

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It's sad where we pay $40,000 - $50,000 for a car which is embarrassing to drive. It's a good thing I wanted a bit before installing a Procharger. Otherwise I would have never found the problem lol. Gonna try again with a 2019.
 

BladeGT

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It's sad where we pay $40,000 - $50,000 for a car which is embarrassing to drive. It's a good thing I wanted a bit before installing a Procharger. Otherwise I would have never found the problem lol. Gonna try again with a 2019.
Full agreeance bigriver.:cheers: Hope you have better luck with your '19. Post up when you get it!
 

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BladeGT

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I know this really doesn't belong here, but I'm not going to start another thread for it, and its somewhat relevant. This guy is having some unreal bad luck with his '18 GT.
 

Fatguy

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A couple of weeks ago I got the itch to upgrade to a V8 again and I ended up only looking at 2017s. No inter model bash as I wanted a 2018 GT, but when 2018 owners tell you to wait till 2019 I listen. BTW: If you YouTube, this stuff is material and that is why he isn’t as pissed off as he would be if this was not material for another video. He only uttered one F-bomb but I would have swore up a song when the car died like that!
 

GT Pony

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I know this really doesn't belong here, but I'm not going to start another thread for it, and its somewhat relevant. This guy is having some unreal bad luck with his '18 GT.

Guess it is "Found On Road Dead" ... FORD. At least it was still running, and fix wasn't too major - sensor failure.
 

zackmd1

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Anyone check their oil level yet? At 400 miles I was below the top hole and above the hash marks. Now at 900 miles my oil level is exactly in the same spot. It's actually easier to read now that the oil is turning brown and if you look at the blank side. Car was driven to operating temp and allowed to cool off for 15-20 minutes.
When I changed my oil I certainly had 10 quarts drain out. Filled two 5 quart containers almost to the top (subtract a little for the oil still trapped in the filter).
 

zackmd1

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I'm asking because I would think having block damage would allow oil blow by since at certain spots the rings wouldn't seal as tight.
Exactly what I have been saying. If the engine starts burning oil there is an issue but if it doesn’t then I am not going to worry about it.
 

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BladeGT

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3/4 up on hash new...3/4 up @ 1200 miles......(warm engine)
 

Red Turtle

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Hi Everyone

I have a 2018 GT premium, magnetic metallic, manual with PP, active valve, magneride and smart and safe. 1500 miles. Build date 11/16/2017 Flatrock Assembly Plant

It's my first mustang and it already needs a new engine. I've had engine rattle from when I first purchased it. My original dealer said it was normal. Took it to a second dealer who replicated the rattle which happens under slight throttle from 2000-2500 rpm after shifting and the rattle stays constant when I hold rpm at 2200, loudest in 3rd gear. The noise diminishes a little when the engine is warm but you can still hear it. The rattle is loud enough where I am embarrassed to drive it.
Well, this is not good news as my car has been doing this since 100 miles and now at just over a 1000. It is exactly as you describe above and I have described it to others as a diesel type clacking from the engine when under light tip in and really bad when engine is cold. Sticker inside drivers door shows build date of 11/17 as well...:frusty::frusty:

My dealer and I are pretty tight with me having my 12' GT longblock replaced at 1500 miles when it had a bad tick/knock immediately after they changed the oil. I actually mentioned it to the same heavy line tech the other day when he was installing my suspension parts, and will have to get him in the car for a drive this week.
 
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bigriver

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Well, this is not good news as my car has been doing this since 100 miles and now at just over a 1000. It is exactly as you describe above and I have described it to others as a diesel type clacking from the engine when under light tip in and really bad when engine is cold. Sticker inside drivers door shows build date of 11/17 as well...:frusty::frusty:

My dealer and I are pretty tight with me having my 12' GT longblock replaced at 1500 miles when it had a bad tick/knock immediately after they changed the oil. I actually mentioned it to the same heavy line tech the other day when he was installing my suspension parts, and will have to get him in the car for a drive this week.
I've also said the same thing to describe the sound. Does your rattle diminish when the engine is warm?
 

Red Turtle

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I've also said the same thing to describe the sound. Does your rattle diminish when the engine is warm?
About 10-20%. It doesn't help that I just put an Xpipe/resonator delete on this past Thursday.:doh:

It is definitely very audible when driving next to something that echo's. Driving down my street when cold it is very audible. In fact the day that I started hearing it, my youngest daughter was with me and she could clearly hear it as well.
 

Red Turtle

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Just checked actual build date and is 11/21/17.
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