Car makes squealling sounds only at startup-Whipple

Nomadic said:

Sorry I forgot to turn on notifications for this thread.

It was purchased 9/18/2015 and installed by Stillen shop in Costa Mesa, CA.
So how do I get the revisions? I'm not mechanical as far as installing this stuff. Would I just take it to the speed shop, have them order and install?

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You need to call or email Whipple and give them the number off your blower. They will send you the revised parts that your car needs. It will be new stands for the idler plate, and the new style billet tensioner. There will be instructions on how to tighten everything back down in the correct sequence. Also make sure to set the manual tensioner is set correctly as described in the install manual.

racingmason said:

Sounds like a pulley misalignment. I shimed the water pump pulley with flat washers on my KB and it went away for good. The is some discrepancies in the water pump hubs when they are pressed on. Try placing some washers behind the water pump pulley. It's only a 10 min job.

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MMR makes a nice billet piece. I noticed some wobble on my factory pulley so I installed the MMR.

Jeff's FRC said:

You need to call or email Whipple and give them the number off your blower. They will send you the revised parts that your car needs. It will be new stands for the idler plate, and the new style billet tensioner.

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Thanks.
I emailed Whipple. They are sending me the parts. I'm going to take it to the speedshop here to install.

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Jeff's FRC said:

You need to call or email Whipple and give them the number off your blower. They will send you the revised parts that your car needs. It will be new stands for the idler plate, and the new style billet tensioner. There will be instructions on how to tighten everything back down in the correct sequence. Also make sure to set the manual tensioner is set correctly as described in the install manual.


MMR makes a nice billet piece. I noticed some wobble on my factory pulley so I installed the MMR.

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So Whipple sent the parts without instructions. I took the parts to the speed shop who called Mike at Whipple who sent the 9 page instructions. The tech at speed shop said the install is pretty involved and a several hour job most likely......so we're talking like $$$ labor.
I'm nothing close to a mechanic so I'm not messing with it.

So I told them forget about it for the upgraded parts for the Whipple for now. Car runs great. They're installing my BMR cradle lockout kit and doing an oil change. He said he's going to check out the squeal at startup and see if any belts are being eaten..etc. I'm waiting for the car now.

Nomadic said:

So Whipple sent the parts without instructions. I took the parts to the speed shop who called Mike at Whipple who sent the 9 page instructions. The tech at speed shop said the install is pretty involved and a several hour job most likely......so we're talking like $$$ labor.
I'm nothing close to a mechanic so I'm not messing with it.

So I told them forget about it for the upgraded parts for the Whipple for now. Car runs great. They're installing my BMR cradle lockout kit and doing an oil change. He said he's going to check out the squeal at startup and see if any belts are being eaten..etc. I'm waiting for the car now.

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IT DOES NOT TAKE 8 HOURS! You also do not remove the supercharger, you loosen the bolts, you do not remove. It's a 1-2 hour job max and that's being generous.

Whipple SC said:

IT DOES NOT TAKE 8 HOURS! You also do not remove the supercharger, you loosen the bolts, you do not remove. It's a 1-2 hour job max and that's being generous.

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No, he said the the SC does not need to be removed but it's a fair amount of work. He said it would take longer than 2 hours but yes I'm sure it's bullshit. I did see the instructions though. Have you upgraded the parts yourself?

I asked Mike at Whipple how long the install would take at a shop and he said about 3hours.

Nomadic said:

No, he said the the SC does not need to be removed but it's a fair amount of work. He said it would take longer than 2 hours but yes I'm sure it's bullshit. I did see the instructions though. Have you upgraded the parts yourself?

I asked Mike at Whipple how long the install would take at a shop and he said about 3hours.

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I could see it taking 3 hours if taking your time. Did the shop seriously tell you 8 hours? I'd look into another shop if so...

Jeff's FRC said:

I could see it taking 3 hours if taking your time. Did the shop seriously tell you 8 hours? I'd look into another shop if so...

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Initially he did b/c he thought he had to remove the s/c. But he came back shortly thereafter and said he made a mistake and the s/c doesn't have to be removed but it's still would take "hours" but didn't know how many but not all day.

I'll probably just reschedule that for another day.

Nomadic said:

No, he said the the SC does not need to be removed but it's a fair amount of work. He said it would take longer than 2 hours but yes I'm sure it's bullshit. I did see the instructions though. Have you upgraded the parts yourself?

I asked Mike at Whipple how long the install would take at a shop and he said about 3hours.

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Yeah I’ve done this and many guys on here who have done this at home and it’s not hard. The shop was just giving you a bad estimate, not sure what that’s all about. For me it was about a 2 hour job taking my time. By the way not sure if you new but WHIPPLE SC who responded to you above is the owner of Whipple.

Roh92cp said:

Yeah I’ve done this and many guys on here who have done this at home and it’s not hard. The shop was just giving you a bad estimate, not sure what that’s all about. For me it was about a 2 hour job taking my time. By the way not sure if you new but WHIPPLE SC who responded to you above is the owner of Whipple.

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Ok thx for the info. And being the owner of Whipple, he obviously would have no idea.;)

Stop by in Austin. It will cost you one Torchys Taco(corn tortillas please) and a Topochico or beer.
Belt chirp fix and any slip fixed 100% guaranteed or your taco refunded (beer non refundable).

Or just road trip it down to Whipple.

Whipple SC said:

Best is to first loosen all manifold to head bolts (not remove). Loosen idler bracket, all bolts. Retorque idler plate to block bolts. Then torque the 10mm bolt that pulls SC forward to idler plate, then tighten manifold to head bolts. That's the proper way. I've seen too many mount the manifold, tighten, then put plate on, but this puts the SC pulley out of alignment in most cases.

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Followed these "tick fix" instuctions to a T. Torqued to install manual specs.
At first start up I got two ticks then no more. Waited 4 hours started the car, no ticks. This morning started it up and I am getting some ticks, its very slight and it goes away quickly. This fix while it didnt cure the noise 100% its very much improved.

My question is what is exactly making that noise?
Actual belt slip?
Is it damaging anything over time if it does not go away?
I find it weird that these "tick fix" steps are NOT in the same order as the install manual. Manual has you torqing down blower unit step 103, adding the idler plate is step 107. "Tick fix" has them the opposite. If the "tick fix" order is the proper way why isnt it listed that way in the instuction manual?
I had 2 professional mechanics assisting me during install, IE they did all the work I handed them tools.... so I know our install was perfect. I did not develop this tick until after about 1k miles.

How many people out there have done this fix? Did it cure your issues 100%? I purchased my stage 2 kit Sept 2016 and installed Nov 2016.

There are several “short” legs in the belt routing where the distance from one belt contact point to the next is very short. The belt flex can accomodate some misalignment, but on the shorter runs, it may shift and drag sideways particularly on those short runs on the belt backside on smooth metal pulleys. This can be heard as a chirp or cyclic squeal.

The belt (made of elastomer) is slightly more flexible/compliant when warm. It is also subject to creep and cold spotting. When you park the car with a warm engine, parts of the belt conform to the pulleys when cooling. If you take the belt off cold, it will have kinks from the pulleys. These slight differences go away when the belt is warmed back up while running.
These slight differences in modulus(stiffness) from the cold kinks is juuuust barely enough to change the friction and compliance of the belt as it resolves any misalignment by sliding sideways(chirping).

Options:

1. Align everything perfect

2. Change short run pulleys to plastic or polymer instead of metal (changes coefficient of friction in your favor to be less sensitvie to misalignment).

3. Change routing to longer runs. Double run length, double tolerance for misalignment.

4. Just put a new belt on. Fresh belt will have more flex and less cold spot tendency. Any brand.

sigintel said:

Stop by in Austin. It will cost you one Torchys Taco(corn tortillas please) and a Topochico or beer.
Belt chirp fix and any slip fixed 100% guaranteed or your taco refunded (beer non refundable).

Or just road trip it down to Whipple.

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Lol. Thanks for the offer. If I was closer I would. I’ll have she shop install the new stuff eventually. I only get the chirp until the car is warmed up. Otherwise it runs great.