Amaury
Well-Known Member
Haha, the more plug and play it is, the better
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It all came as a kit from ford here is the part number to order. As far as making the adapters I could probably come up with something but I don't know how big the market will be for them or if it would be worth my time since we don't know what the price will do once the manifolds are back in stock. I the manifolds don't jump in price then I may look into it but the pigtails are like $18 a piece and that's just for the ones that plug into the sensors. Buy the time you add the side to fit the factory harness and making the adapters up and ship it would be close to $80-90. Once the plugs and pins become available in the aftermarket it would be cheaper. But right now there is no other option for the plugs I tried for 2 weeks to find other plugs while I was waiting on mine that were back ordered from ford.Will you make me a set when I'm ready to install mine?
It all came as a kit from ford here is the part number to order. As far as making the adapters I could probably come up with something but I don't know how big the market will be for them or if it would be worth my time since we don't know what the price will do once the manifolds are back in stock. I the manifolds don't jump in price then I may look into it but the pigtails are like $18 a piece and that's just for the ones that plug into the sensors. Buy the time you add the side to fit the factory harness and making the adapters up and ship it would be close to $80-90. Once the plugs and pins become available in the aftermarket it would be cheaper. But right now there is no other option for the plugs I tried for 2 weeks to find other plugs while I was waiting on mine that were back ordered from ford.
I would gladly pay you that if it means not messing around with the factory cablingIt all came as a kit from ford here is the part number to order. As far as making the adapters I could probably come up with something but I don't know how big the market will be for them or if it would be worth my time since we don't know what the price will do once the manifolds are back in stock. I the manifolds don't jump in price then I may look into it but the pigtails are like $18 a piece and that's just for the ones that plug into the sensors. Buy the time you add the side to fit the factory harness and making the adapters up and ship it would be close to $80-90. Once the plugs and pins become available in the aftermarket it would be cheaper. But right now there is no other option for the plugs I tried for 2 weeks to find other plugs while I was waiting on mine that were back ordered from ford.
At first I put one of the old soleonids back on the car and plugged it it. I have it unplugged now with no lights.I assume you needed to order quantity 2 of these?
What did you do for the 2 pin harness, just plug one in and leave the other?
Max power with GT350 mani is @ approx 7200 rpm - you don't need more RPM to use the 100% of engine power. Also I would not recommend reving the motor past 7500 without billet OPG/CS upgrade.People should be going to 8k with the gt350. 7500 is a bit of a waste.
I ran my best ET and MPH at the track shifting my GT350 Mani car @7800. 8k is just fine on the OPG. OPG failures come from bouncing them off the limiter. Hell my roommate has a 13 with a vortech and a Boss shifting @ 7800 for multiple years now. OPG are just fine.Max power with GT350 mani is @ approx 7200 rpm - you don't need more RPM to use the 100% of engine power. Also I would not recommend reving the motor past 7500 without billet OPG/CS upgrade.
You cant't make much more power at higher RPM with just a manifold because you will be hitting a volumetric efficiency limit anyways - you need better cams to raise VE peak.
Yep, because when you shift you don't want to be too far down from peak power. Shifting at 7800 should drop you right near 6700-6800.I ran my best ET and MPH at the track shifting my GT350 Mani car @7800. 8k is just fine on the OPG. OPG failures come from bouncing them off the limiter. Hell my roommate has a 13 with a vortech and a Boss shifting @ 7800 for multiple years now. OPG are just fine.
FWIW, I hit up MAK for a price and mentioned they should think about putting together a "kit". Not sure what people would pay, but I know a true Plug-and-Play with the correct vacuum line extensions, precut, clamps, all wiring done in advance with good heat shrink/insulation would be awesome.Haha, the more plug and play it is, the better ��
Depends on trans and gearing - I get best shifting at different rpm for each gear. I've seen ton of exploded engines due the CS or OPG failure in N/A as well. Agreed, it's a lottery but I'm not taking a risk.I ran my best ET and MPH at the track shifting my GT350 Mani car @7800. 8k is just fine on the OPG. OPG failures come from bouncing them off the limiter. Hell my roommate has a 13 with a vortech and a Boss shifting @ 7800 for multiple years now. OPG are just fine.
If is sold separately, I would buy it.FWIW, I hit up MAK for a price and mentioned they should think about putting together a "kit". Not sure what people would pay, but I know a true Plug-and-Play with the correct vacuum line extensions, precut, clamps, all wiring done in advance with good heat shrink/insulation would be awesome.
What is the context of this email? I'm taking it that the point they're trying to make is that the damper needs replaced, not necessarily the OPG/Cam Gears?Reposting for clarity
“Uncontrolled torsional vibrations break the oil pumps.
It is not the oil pump gear material or the heavier oil that breaks the pump.
The large mass of the flywheel /pressure plate or flywheel / torque converter control the torsional vibrations at the rear of the crankshaft. The vibration damper controls them at the front of the engine.
The production vibration damper is designed to work within the production vehicles RPM limit and power level.
At 8000 rpm you are past that limit.
Changing engine internal components and or installing power adders can change damper requirements.
Just installing an aftermarket race damper is not always a fix.
Some aftermarket dampers are not tuned correctly and do not control the torsional vibrations.
Why do Ford Performance and other companies sell oil pumps with steel gears?
The steel gears will survive longer in the harsh conditions of uncontrolled torsional vibrations.
Some of the other components that are subjected to the damaging torsional vibrations are the timing gears and chains.
People that blame the oil pump gears or the timing chain gears and chains as being substandard do not understand the damaging effect of uncontrolled torsional vibrations.
Regarding your ATI damper question, the ATIs seem to be fine, we use them in the Cobra Jets. We've seen issues with other brands I won't name. You can certainly pass the info along! There's no objection on my part as long as the context is fitting, you may even want to paraphrase, etc.
Thanks again!
Best regards,
Mike Robins
Supervisor-Info Center
Ford Performance”
Context is about what's critical. The takeaway is this: with a properly tuned damper, you can get away with stock OPGs and rev higher NA. Boosted is a whole different ballgame and you should do the billet ones.What is the context of this email? I'm taking it that the point they're trying to make is that the damper needs replaced, not necessarily the OPG/Cam Gears?
I thought that there have been images of broken OPGs?