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Mixed info about coyote hp limit

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I'm one of the ones where it didn't work out. My car dyno'd 580ish on a mustang dyno, which would be a little over 600 on a dynojet. I'm not blaming anyone or any power adder. I managed 9000 miles supercharged and lost compression in two cylinders. But I did not baby it. I'm kinda glad it happened, because now I get to make it better. Just be prepared for this...
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Man, sorry about your luck but that thing will be so sweet once it's done...it looks bad ass just sitting there stripped down like that! :hail:
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Crackerjack17

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Just curious.. How much money is all of it costing you? Labour, parts etc.
It can vary a lot depending on when you buy, what you buy, etc.

For me I have over $7k in the shortblock with extras that are likely overkill, but nice parts... like billet rear main cover, billet chain guides, etc, etc. ARP bolts everywhere which get pricey. And I didn't even get it sleeved. I probably should have, but you have to draw the line somewhere.

Plus, I might as well change the clutch and I haven't decided what to do with transmission yet. So figure at least another couple thousand.

Labor, that's all me.

PS. I also want to say, this should not scare you from adding forced induction. There are many people out there pushing way more power and do not have issues. There are a ton of factors involved (factory tolerances, heat, gas, tune, etc) You can't point your finger at specifically one reason. I would supercharge a stock one again in a heart beat. But you can't be all pissed off when you double the horspower of your motor and it doesn't work out.
 
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Bald Menace

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Take a 700 rwhp Supercharged engine and a 700 rwhp Turbocharged engine. the Supercharged engine has to make enough power to drive the blower therefore it might have to make 800 crank hp to make 700 rwhp. the Turbo charged engine doesn't tax hp to make hp so the engine doesn't see as much load. there are a lot of factors that go into engine output and longevity. this is an area where being cheap or taking shortcuts can bite you in the butt.
 

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Just to add with my experience with a built block. My shortblock was fine, so I just paid for upgrades to it. Pistons, rods, cylinder supports, block brace, machining for the new pistons, and ARP everything - that was a little under $10k. Then labor is generally 8 hours out, 8 hours in for a motor install. I didn't do new sleeves as the cylinder supports in the water jacket should be good enough.
 

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This much... at least once



I think if you go with forged internals you should do sleeves. The sleeves and internal seem to be about the same strength. Also if you are talking 2018+ coyote, the block and rods are different and may be stronger but the 2018+ is still relatively untested.
 

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Neither of them had any experience with the Coyote engine.
I would have stopped right there and walked out. How can anyone say anything about a certain engine if they have 0 experience with it?

Also, it's 100% that they were telling you that so that you go and buy an engine from them. Of course a shop in the business of making money by selling engines is going to tell you that your existing one will blow and that you need a new one.
 

boosted4life

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As said above there are a lot of factors. And since you're using the Whipple tune I wouldn't be worried about it at all, I installed my Whipple Gen 2 at 600 miles and currently have 45,000 miles. It is my daily and take it to the track at least once a month. The only piece of mind for me was changing the oil pump gear and crank gear. Haven't looked back since and has been running flawlessly at 750rwhp
 

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This much... at least once



I think if you go with forged internals you should do sleeves. The sleeves and internal seem to be about the same strength. Also if you are talking 2018+ coyote, the block and rods are different and may be stronger but the 2018+ is still relatively untested.

I tend to agree. I hate to spend the money but my motor will have sleeves if I am spending that kind of money. I see it like building a pushrod motor with forged internals in a stock block.
 

olaosunt

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I have such bad luck with these motors that I have had BES build me "spares" for my 2 15's-

The sleeved 5.2 motors are currently up and running ..... I ran the motor in the KB car last year to 148 mph/10.0 ET but only finally sorted out the one in the Hellion car .

Last time that car saw any track duty was when the old alluminator failed-hole in piston #8.... in May of 2016!

I finaly found the cause of my oil pressure issue with the new block was reusing the old VCT stuff(one of the cam phaser filters was plugged). I would recommend all new VCT stuff for any fresh build after a failure.

Fortunately was able to reuse parts from prior builds(2 almost intact rotating assemblies- replaced 1 forged piston for each assembly) and blocks I had sleeved(5.0). Also have 2 sets of heads(one ported one BNIB) so I can assemble a long block if needed.

If I end up not needing the spares I should be able to sell them for at least what I have in them.
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Thanks for everyones opinions and experiences. I've came to the conclusion that as long as I take it easy for this year, being on the whipple tune and i always run 94 fuel which should be some added safety since the whipple tune is for 91, that I should be pretty safe. Yes anything can happen and If anything does then that's just some shitty luck. I just want this supercharger installed and to be driving it already!! lol
 

ahl395

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Thanks for everyones opinions and experiences. I've came to the conclusion that as long as I take it easy for this year, being on the whipple tune and i always run 94 fuel which should be some added safety since the whipple tune is for 91, that I should be pretty safe. Yes anything can happen and If anything does then that's just some shitty luck. I just want this supercharger installed and to be driving it already!! lol
Sounds good to me :cheers: :thumbsup:
 

Jay-rod427

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Sort of same thing happened to me. I installed the Procharger and was at a local engine builders shop that lots of people around here respect. The owner and his lead guy both told me that my engine basically would not last very long with the high compression ratio and boost. Neither of them had any experience with the Coyote engine. Maybe they didn’t know what others might, or they were just wanting some of my money for a engine build.
Don't walk, run away!

High compression and boost does not mean squat anymore. Cylinder pressure eats things up along those lines. What the local engine builder shop who doesn't have any experience with a coyote hasn't learned is that variable cam timing blew this old school thought out of the water. The actual cylinder pressure and forces can be managed greatly in the cam timing.

So as others have said the tune and fuel quality give you the best chance for engine survival.
 

Bartly

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Don't walk, run away!

High compression and boost does not mean squat anymore. Cylinder pressure eats things up along those lines. What the local engine builder shop who doesn't have any experience with a coyote hasn't learned is that variable cam timing blew this old school thought out of the water. The actual cylinder pressure and forces can be managed greatly in the cam timing.

So as others have said the tune and fuel quality give you the best chance for engine survival.
I’ve been out of the sports car/engine thing for 20 years so I didn’t know enough to debate it with him or his guy. I figured the technology was different enough to allow all of the boosted coyotes to last. Seems like if it was an epidemic you’d here more about blown engines.

In a way it’s good to hear that it long WOT pulls is what might be causing any ring problems. Only good because I don’t do them ever really, mostly just getting up to 70-90mph as fast as I can is about all I do when pushing the car. I tend to watch my catalytic converter PIDs and usually let that tell me when to stop pushing the car.
Thank god I finally got a good tune that rarely shows any positive knock. The last 1 1/2 years I was sweating it because no matter who or where I was getting my tune revisions from all WOT logs had knock in the +4-6 range, just happy that’s behind me. Figuring I’m only at 580whp, but am only on 91 octane so hopefully the engine lasts a long time.
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