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Front Sway bar stripped bolt

Vato

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I was wrenching on my car this weekend. I was using a 12pt 18mm socket because I didn't have a long enough 1/2' extension for my impact gun. The bolt is slightly stripped. The light bulb went off and I decided to use the breaker bar. Well it was too late. The 12 pt socket just snaps around with a good amount of force. So it's not totally stripped. I just ordered a 18mm extractor socket and long enough 1/2" extension. Craftsman and others don't include this specific size. All of them go from 17mm to 19mm.

Man...I was so excited to install it and then this set me back. The rear sway is on. Driving the car with just the rear sway is intense. A good jerk of the steering wheel and the car instantly reacts. It's almost a violent reaction. I literally said, "OH MY GOD!" This is from a guy who has had all sorts of cars and installed sway bars on many of them even a 2013 Tundra. I'm wondering if I even want the front sway. I kind of like the major over steer.

Anyway, do you guys have other suggestions? I really don't want to pay a shop to install a sway bar if this extractor tool fails.
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melwff

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First if I'm understanding correctly the bolt is not stripped, the head is rounded, correct?
Did you try a 6 pt socket?
 

airfuel

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6 point socket. Impact gun. Done.
 
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Vato

Vato

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[MENTION=26738]melwff[/MENTION] you're right, it's not stripped. I didn't have a long enough 1/2" extension for my 6 pt socket. I'll try that first before the bolt extractor
[MENTION=31830]Austinj427[/MENTION] I went with Hotchkis sway bars. I haven't had any problems with them after using them on a 2005 CTS-V and other cars.
 

bluebeastsrt

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if all else fails. Take a cutting wheel and cut a straight line notch in the bolt head. Then use a big ass screw driver. Make sure you use a little penetrating oil when taking the bolts out also. No matter which technique you use.
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