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Steeda Rear IRS Subframe Support Brace - Install + Review

jbailer

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I got these braces after reading Nate's review. As you can see from my signature, I already have a bunch of Steeda corner fast and stop the hop goodies. I think the main benefit of these are to reduce wheel hop. That became more apparent as I did the install and saw where the connection points were. I can't really comment on how well it did there because I had already gotten rid of the wheel hop from my other parts. After my test drive though I can definitely see how these would help with that. I was amazed at how connected the rear end feels now! I really didn't think it would make that much difference in cornering but it does. There may be another added benefit but I don't want to comment on that until I can do some more testing. There's a certain road I want to test drive on before I decide. Either way I'm once again overwhelmed, a simple brace, this was the part I decided to skip originally thinking it would probably do the least.

Now for the install. I'm not going to give instructions because between Steeda's instructions that come with the braces and Bill from CJ Pony Parts video, you should get it. I will add a little color to tie them together. Notice in all of Bill's videos, the installs are ALWAYS a breeze? Well I'm not sure if it is just convenient editing so we don't see all of it and hear the curse words or if he truly does get the perfect car every time. I'll choose to believe the later because I really appreciate them.

You'll notice in Bill's video, there is no jack supporting the front of the subframe. This gives the camera a nice clear view of Bill for the video. In Steeda's instructions they tell you in step #1 to lift the car by the chassis and then in step #2 to support the front of the subframe with a jack. I found out why. Where Bill got the perfect car and all holes lined up perfect, 1 side of mine didn't. In Steeda's instructions step #9, they tell you, "If at this point, everything is not lining up correctly, the 2 13mm hex head bolts on the front sub frame support brackets, and the main sub frame support bolt may need to be loosened up, so that the sub frame support bracket can be repositioned slightly." Well the first side I did, this was the case and I'm glad I read Steeda's instructions because this would be the time I'm cursing because it didn't bolt right in. I would change one thing in the instructions. All bolts to begin with should be installed very loose. Start with the factory bolt they mention in the front of the brace, then install the bolt that goes into the threaded plate that slides into the frame.
Note: Look carefully at the threaded plate, you'll see there is a top and bottom. You want the side with the clean threads facing down to get the bolt threaded in there easier.
Doing this will both support the brace and help so you're not having to muscle the bar around like Bill in the video. Then put the other bolt in the front of the brace, then the bolt and nut at the very back. I recommend putting the nut up there first. You can look up there and see if it is centered over the hole, then install the bolt. At this point all you have left is the dreaded center bolt that goes into the sub frame brace. If it lines up, you are lucky like Bill (and me on the driver's side). If not, this is where you'll need to support the front of the sub frame with the jack and loosen those 13mm and 22mm bolts that Steeda mentions in step #9. Just adjust it until you can get that bolt in and you're all set. Snug everything down then torque per specs that Steeda conveniently put in the instructions.

Link to Bill from CJ Pony Parts install video:
[ame]

Thank you again to David@Steeda for the great support and Steeda for the goodies that make my car amazing!
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ero 5.0

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I agree. I put the subframe bushings on and these support braces and it made all the difference in the world in the rear. no wheel hop, and it feels very solid.
 

David@Steeda

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I got these braces after reading Nate's review. As you can see from my signature, I already have a bunch of Steeda corner fast and stop the hop goodies. I think the main benefit of these are to reduce wheel hop. That became more apparent as I did the install and saw where the connection points were. I can't really comment on how well it did there because I had already gotten rid of the wheel hop from my other parts. After my test drive though I can definitely see how these would help with that. I was amazed at how connected the rear end feels now! I really didn't think it would make that much difference in cornering but it does. There may be another added benefit but I don't want to comment on that until I can do some more testing. There's a certain road I want to test drive on before I decide. Either way I'm once again overwhelmed, a simple brace, this was the part I decided to skip originally thinking it would probably do the least.

Now for the install. I'm not going to give instructions because between Steeda's instructions that come with the braces and Bill from CJ Pony Parts video, you should get it. I will add a little color to tie them together. Notice in all of Bill's videos, the installs are ALWAYS a breeze? Well I'm not sure if it is just convenient editing so we don't see all of it and hear the curse words or if he truly does get the perfect car every time. I'll choose to believe the later because I really appreciate them.

You'll notice in Bill's video, there is no jack supporting the front of the subframe. This gives the camera a nice clear view of Bill for the video. In Steeda's instructions they tell you in step #1 to lift the car by the chassis and then in step #2 to support the front of the subframe with a jack. I found out why. Where Bill got the perfect car and all holes lined up perfect, 1 side of mine didn't. In Steeda's instructions step #9, they tell you, "If at this point, everything is not lining up correctly, the 2 13mm hex head bolts on the front sub frame support brackets, and the main sub frame support bolt may need to be loosened up, so that the sub frame support bracket can be repositioned slightly." Well the first side I did, this was the case and I'm glad I read Steeda's instructions because this would be the time I'm cursing because it didn't bolt right in. I would change one thing in the instructions. All bolts to begin with should be installed very loose. Start with the factory bolt they mention in the front of the brace, then install the bolt that goes into the threaded plate that slides into the frame.
Note: Look carefully at the threaded plate, you'll see there is a top and bottom. You want the side with the clean threads facing down to get the bolt threaded in there easier.
Doing this will both support the brace and help so you're not having to muscle the bar around like Bill in the video. Then put the other bolt in the front of the brace, then the bolt and nut at the very back. I recommend putting the nut up there first. You can look up there and see if it is centered over the hole, then install the bolt. At this point all you have left is the dreaded center bolt that goes into the sub frame brace. If it lines up, you are lucky like Bill (and me on the driver's side). If not, this is where you'll need to support the front of the sub frame with the jack and loosen those 13mm and 22mm bolts that Steeda mentions in step #9. Just adjust it until you can get that bolt in and you're all set. Snug everything down then torque per specs that Steeda conveniently put in the instructions.

Link to Bill from CJ Pony Parts install video:


Thank you again to David@Steeda for the great support and Steeda for the goodies that make my car amazing!

Exactly what we love to hear, so happy you're liking the braces and tackling that wheel hop - enjoy, Joe! :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mocella

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I'm in the process of installing these, along with several other Steeda items, and I got a bit "stuck" on the passenger side install. Like you, I got the driver side installed no problem, but the passenger side is fighting me on that last center-bolt.

I loosened up the front subframe bolts and still no luck in getting this thing aligned with the bolt-hole.

Anyone that have had this issue end have any tips for getting this thing to move/align? The only thing I haven't tried yet is to loosen up the rear subframe on the passenger side to see if that gives it a bit more freedom to move, or possibly pulling the subframe alignment stuff on the passenger side (grasping at straws) to see if that gives it enough room to move.

I've emailed Steeda but thought maybe someone here that's been through this would have an idea that gets me rolling today before I hear back from Steeda.

A few pics of the situation - first the way things line-up:


And here's what it looks like if I pulled the 2x13mm bolts from the front of the subframe and connect the center-bolt:
 

Old Car Guy

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Did.....

I'm in the process of installing these, along with several other Steeda items, and I got a bit "stuck" on the passenger side install. Like you, I got the driver side installed no problem, but the passenger side is fighting me on that last center-bolt.

I loosened up the front subframe bolts and still no luck in getting this thing aligned with the bolt-hole.

Anyone that have had this issue end have any tips for getting this thing to move/align? The only thing I haven't tried yet is to loosen up the rear subframe on the passenger side to see if that gives it a bit more freedom to move, or possibly pulling the subframe alignment stuff on the passenger side (grasping at straws) to see if that gives it enough room to move.

I've emailed Steeda but thought maybe someone here that's been through this would have an idea that gets me rolling today before I hear back from Steeda.

A few pics of the situation - first the way things line-up:


And here's what it looks like if I pulled the 2x13mm bolts from the front of the subframe and connect the center-bolt:
Did not have this happen to me when I installed mine on my Mustang or any other Steeda parts on my car, everything bolted up very well, I know David Steeda will take care of this for you..... Great Products, and Great People there at Steeda........ John
 

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whatsup62

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Mine have been on for a few weeks now. Absolutely no issues on install...everything lined up perfectly. Really tightened up the car. Love them!!
 

charlie278

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I'm in the process of installing these, along with several other Steeda items, and I got a bit "stuck" on the passenger side install. Like you, I got the driver side installed no problem, but the passenger side is fighting me on that last center-bolt.

I loosened up the front subframe bolts and still no luck in getting this thing aligned with the bolt-hole.

Anyone that have had this issue end have any tips for getting this thing to move/align? The only thing I haven't tried yet is to loosen up the rear subframe on the passenger side to see if that gives it a bit more freedom to move, or possibly pulling the subframe alignment stuff on the passenger side (grasping at straws) to see if that gives it enough room to move.

I've emailed Steeda but thought maybe someone here that's been through this would have an idea that gets me rolling today before I hear back from Steeda.

A few pics of the situation - first the way things line-up:
IMG_0992.jpg


And here's what it looks like if I pulled the 2x13mm bolts from the front of the subframe and connect the center-bolt:
IMG_0990.jpg
I had the exact same problem, yes, you need to loosen that bolt so that it aligns correctly.
steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754-6-7.jpg
 
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5ABI VT

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Will be ordering this very soon with the alignment bushings
 

GTBOB

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Any scientific data or comparisons with this and the BMR CB005? Cost is substantially different but do they do the same thing?
 

MustangCollector

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i have had my eye on these since they came out, the install seems simple but as the OP mentioned if something doesnt line up and you need to drop or move the subframe it can be a real PITA alone. also if doing any removal of the subframe bolts to get these braces to fit, wont that affect the possible rear wheel alignment some?

My car has the delrin alignment inserts and the bushing support kit already.
 

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KilluminatiDre

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i have had my eye on these since they came out, the install seems simple but as the OP mentioned if something doesnt line up and you need to drop or move the subframe it can be a real PITA alone. also if doing any removal of the subframe bolts to get these braces to fit, wont that affect the possible rear wheel alignment some?

My car has the delrin alignment inserts and the bushing support kit already.
To my understanding you can remove the rear subframe bolts as long as the front subframe bolts are still in and vice versa and it won't affect alignment.
 

whatsup62

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When I installed, I started front bolts, started center bolt, and then started rear bolts. Snugged up in reverse order. As I mentioned had no problems starting any of them. Jacked rear of car up, installed jack stands, front supported by tires.
 

mocella

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It ended up being subframe alignment. I did talk to Thomas @ Steeda and he walked me through a quick couple of checks to make sure the parts were both mirror-images of each other, and once I got that, knew it was the subframe I had to deal with. It's all up and in place now and I'm glad to not have any backlog projects that will have me under the car for a few hours any time soon.
 

KilluminatiDre

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It ended up being subframe alignment. I did talk to Thomas @ Steeda and he walked me through a quick couple of checks to make sure the parts were both mirror-images of each other, and once I got that, knew it was the subframe I had to deal with. It's all up and in place now and I'm glad to not have any backlog projects that will have me under the car for a few hours any time soon.
So what did you have to do to fix it? In case someone else has the same problem down the road.
 

mocella

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So what did you have to do to fix it? In case someone else has the same problem down the road.
Loosened up the front and rear subframe bolts on the misaligned side, put up the brace with the front/rear bolts loose, but enough to have it in place to line up the center bolt. Then just take the pry-bar and get things shifted until they lined up, then pull the brace, tighten up the subframe bolts, then do the install of the brace again.

I guess I'm one of those unlucky folks that had a misaligned subframe from the factory, but now that I've done all this and gotten an alignment, am good to go.
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