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BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

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Southview

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Open the trunk. Sit on edge of trunk opening and bounce up and down.
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CoolRod

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If I drop the rear cradle (I have access to a lift) to install my BMR springs, do I still need to re-clock all of the bushings?
 

Dominant1

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yes because its done with the full weight on the suspension, otherwise it will not work...
 

MtnBiker

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If I drop the rear cradle (I have access to a lift) to install my BMR springs, do I still need to re-clock all of the bushings?
Yes because you are changing your ride height. That changes the suspension geometry. Need an alignment too.
 

CEHollier

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I'm fixing to install PP dampers and BMR minimal lowering springs. I read this post from start to finish and did not see this question answered. For simplicity I'm going to have the guys doing the alignment clock the bushings. Some members mentioned driving 50 miles or so to allow the springs to settle. Does it matter driving the 50 miles before or after clocking the bushing and doing the alignment?
 

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BmacIL

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I'm fixing to install PP dampers and BMR minimal lowering springs. I read this post from start to finish and did not see this question answered. For simplicity I'm going to have the guys doing the alignment clock the bushings. Some members mentioned driving 50 miles or so to allow the springs to settle. Does it matter driving the 50 miles before or after clocking the bushing and doing the alignment?
Do it whenever is feasible before the alignment. If you have the equipment, do it immediately after installation. Otherwise they should be able to do it on the alignment rack. It's an odd request but a good shop will do it.
 

HoosierDaddy

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I'm fixing to install PP dampers and BMR minimal lowering springs. I read this post from start to finish and did not see this question answered. For simplicity I'm going to have the guys doing the alignment clock the bushings. Some members mentioned driving 50 miles or so to allow the springs to settle.
I don't KNOW but since factory springs also settle and I have never heard anyone say they either needed or did re-clock after the factory springs settled, it would seem okay to do it at time of install. But if the cost is the same to wait, might as well get that final fraction of benefit.
 

CEHollier

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Do it whenever is feasible before the alignment. If you have the equipment, do it immediately after installation. Otherwise they should be able to do it on the alignment rack. It's an odd request but a good shop will do it.
I'm installing them myself on jack stands so the clocking won't get done until the alignment. Guess I will put 50 or so miles on the springs after install then do the alignment. Thanks.
 

turbojay

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Great info here. I’m happy I stumbled on to this thread as I plan on doing springs and bushing this weekend. Thank you!
 

jabrax

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I don't KNOW but since factory springs also settle and I have never heard anyone say they either needed or did re-clock after the factory springs settled, it would seem okay to do it at time of install. But if the cost is the same to wait, might as well get that final fraction of benefit.
.

Hey Hoosier, this has nothing to do with springs settling, and everything to do with the car being lowered from factory settings that can bind up the bushings. It is not uncommon for someone to say the car is seems uneven and lopsided after lowering. Also, the chance of premature wear is introduced to the bushings.

Plenty of threads where people complain of the cars appearance after lowering. It can usually be traced to needing this done after lowering
 

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JKL1031

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A good plant doesnt torque those type of bushings until the car is on the ground, or they have something that presses the rear arms in ground position when the rear cradle is being sub assembled. ;-)
 

Monica_Stang

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Wish I would have known this before I lowered my car. I just discovered reclocking a few days ago after having squeaks coming from the front when going slow in parking lots...I’ve been lowered for a year and a half now.

Luckily I’m going in for an alignment this week because my steering feels off. Maybe it’s my bushings rather than my alignment though.

Hopefully reclocking would solve this and my bushings aren’t too far gone. I’ve already tried lithium grease and still have the squeaks
 

MtnBiker

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This suspension is really particular about proper torque on those fasteners or you'll get squeeks.
 

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I did progressive springs two months ago and no squeaks so far, work done at dealership and was a 4 hr. job. The job is serious and requires skill, 3 hr. per axle for billing purpose so the Service Mgr. tells me. Now I need Bilstein shocks & struts to pair with the drop.
 

BmacIL

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I did progressive springs two months ago and no squeaks so far, work done at dealership and was a 4 hr. job. The job is serious and requires skill, 3 hr. per axle for billing purpose so the Service Mgr. tells me. Now I need Bilstein shocks & struts to pair with the drop.
:lol::lol:

To do springs it takes maybe 1.5-2 hrs per axle TOPS on jackstands by yourself. On a lift maybe 1 hr. I'd go somewhere else. If you're just adding dampers, that's 1.5 per axle for the front and about half an hour per rear if taking your sweet time. Sounds like someone is padding the time.
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