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Deep rock chip solution?

MustangNY

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Just noticed a deep rock chip when cleaning the car. I've done some research and the two best methods on the market ar dr color chip and scratch wizard. The difference between the too is scratch wizard comes with a bondo filler material to fill where as dr colorchip does not. Which would you guys reccomend for a deep rock chip? I've attached pictures
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Tomster

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Xpel. Front end, a pillars, wheel impact areas, partial roof, etc
 

smsgt350

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I see you have magnetic as do I. It is the most difficult color to do a decent touch up on as the metallic flake will not "stand up" as it does when sprayed on. Hard to even get the shade correct with the touch up paint it always goes on darker. I would take that one to the paint and body guys
 

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I think all you need are some touch up paint from the dealer, a small artist brush and a bit of lacquer thinner for a brush cleaner. Dip the brush in a bit of thinner and then into the touch up paint and lightly dab the chip being careful to stay inside the chip. Particularly if it's a metallic paint, resist trying to dab the chip full all at once. Better to fill it slowly over several hours with thin coats allowed to dry in between coats. Done carefully, a chip of that size will be nearly invisible. If you are feeling fully capable you can sand the filled chip flat with 600 and then 1000 & 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a popcycle stick. I learned of a trick the other day when using this approach, which is to put a wrap of masking tape on either side of the strip of sandpaper. The masking tape helps keep the sandpaper from going below the surface profile and creating a shallow divot. Then the sanded area has to polished to remove the sanding scratches.
 

SVT-DADDY

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Dr Colorchip.
 

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fpa1974

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I think all you need are some touch up paint from the dealer, a small artist brush and a bit of lacquer thinner for a brush cleaner. Dip the brush in a bit of thinner and then into the touch up paint and lightly dab the chip being careful to stay inside the chip. Particularly if it's a metallic paint, resist trying to dab the chip full all at once. Better to fill it slowly over several hours with thin coats allowed to dry in between coats. Done carefully, a chip of that size will be nearly invisible. If you are feeling fully capable you can sand the filled chip flat with 600 and then 1000 & 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a popcycle stick. I learned of a trick the other day when using this approach, which is to put a wrap of masking tape on either side of the strip of sandpaper. The masking tape helps keep the sandpaper from going below the surface profile and creating a shallow divot. Then the sanded area has to polished to remove the sanding scratches.
Very good advice. Magnetic Ford color code is J7. I would make a suggestion not to use anything lower than 1000 grit wise (I use 1000, 2000, 3000). Taping around the chip before wet sanding (do not do it dry) is critical. Also critical is to let the paint dry properly before sanding (I try 24 hours). After sanding polishing with DA or orbital buffer with good pads and compound will make it look even better. The only good thing with this chip is that it is very close to the edge so if repaired properly will not be very visible. Good luck!
 

key01

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I have had really good luck using touch up paint and a paper match stick approach. Instead of using any kind of bristle brush ( especially the hard nylon that comes in the paint stick) I take a book of paper matches and tear out the match and use the torn end to paint with. The ragged end of the match will apply a proper amount of paint that you can control. Build up layers until your chip is level. Good luck!
 

fpa1974

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I have had really good luck using touch up paint and a paper match stick approach. Instead of using any kind of bristle brush ( especially the hard nylon that comes in the paint stick) I take a book of paper matches and tear out the match and use the torn end to paint with. The ragged end of the match will apply a proper amount of paint that you can control. Build up layers until your chip is level. Good luck!
That or toothpicks - adjust the end of it as needed (finer or coarser). I do not use the built in brush either. If a brush is needed, buy a set or fine artist brushes and they do a much better job controlling what you want to touch up.
 

Nicky Pass

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Go to ulta and look in the make up brush section. There are many small brushes that work very good on chips.
 

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Dr. Colorchip
If you want I can send you my MC magnetic touch up paint. You pay for shipping. It doesn't match very well.
I don't own a magnetic anymore.
 

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MikeMM

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I'm a little late to the party on this one seeing as quite a few people have some good suggestions already. However, I fill all of my rock chips with a $12 artists pen from amazon and code-matched touchup paint. My GT350 is black so it shows EVERYTHING, but even my unexperienced hands can flawlessly fix chips if I take my time and do multiple layers. It's a super fine nozzle so it makes minuscule dots of paint and only lets the paint flow when the pen is in contact with the car, so no drips can happen. I highly suggest cleaning the area with rubbing alcohol prior to trying to apply the paint because simply washing the car isn't enough and the touchup paint is liable to bubble. If you take your time, you won't have any bubbling or bulging of the paint, which means no sanding on the back end.

Here is the link to the pen:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YZXV8U?ref_=pe_1196280_123950170
 

fpa1974

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I'm a little late to the party on this one seeing as quite a few people have some good suggestions already. However, I fill all of my rock chips with a $12 artists pen from amazon and code-matched touchup paint. My GT350 is black so it shows EVERYTHING, but even my unexperienced hands can flawlessly fix chips if I take my time and do multiple layers. It's a super fine nozzle so it makes minuscule dots of paint and only lets the paint flow when the pen is in contact with the car, so no drips can happen. I highly suggest cleaning the area with rubbing alcohol prior to trying to apply the paint because simply washing the car isn't enough and the touchup paint is liable to bubble. If you take your time, you won't have any bubbling or bulging of the paint, which means no sanding on the back end.

Here is the link to the pen:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YZXV8U?ref_=pe_1196280_123950170
I really like the idea of that pen. Seems better than toothpicks and such. Is the Ford touch up paint the correct consistency to flow properly through it? Also when you are done, do you pour the excess paint back in the original bottle? Thanks!
 

MikeMM

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I really like the idea of that pen. Seems better than toothpicks and such. Is the Ford touch up paint the correct consistency to flow properly through it? Also when you are done, do you pour the excess paint back in the original bottle? Thanks!
It should flow nicely. The only caution I would have is to check the flek size in the paint before trying to send it through the pen because larger flecks may not fit down the nozzle. I ususally get the higer end Duplicolor stuff because it has the clear coat too and that flows fine and mayches well, so I would imagine the Ford stuff will too. If youre really worried about it they do make slightly larger sizes of nozzle (the linked one is 0.26mm). They wont be as precise as that one, but if youre careful I’m sure theyll get the job done just as well. One thing I want to note is when you fill the hopper (its literally 2-3 drops of paint from an eye dropper to fill) you have to tap the nozzle on a hard surface to get the paint into the nozzle and get it to start flowing. Personally, when I’m done I just wash the excess paint out with alcohol and the included pipe cleaner because its such a small amount of wasted product that its negligible. Hope this helps.
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