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DIY ceramic coating for cars that don't need paint correction

SVT-DADDY

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I've had great luck with ceramic coatings on all my vehicles so I thought I would post my process for those interested in DIYing this sort of thing.

The condition of your paint
The first thing you need to consider is the condition of your paint and the need for paint correction. If your paint is dull,scratched, swirled, or very heavily contaminated you should really start with paint correction. The reason behind this is you are basically locking in the condition of your paint for the life of the coating. Paint correction isn't rocket science either, but I think many of us would prefer to leave it to the pros.

For the majority of us that have newer cars with good paint. A clay bar and hand polish would work wonders by itself and is a good starting point for a coating.


Products

Wax,sealant, or ceramic coating

People can be very passionate about their choice of paint protection. For me all 3 are good choices depending on your goals. It really comes down to longevity. In my experience wax is good for around 3 months, sealant about 6 months, and ceramic coating 2 plus years (haven't found the end yet). As far as difficulty of application I would still argue the need for clay bar and polish for any of the 3. So really steps 1-5 are basically the same. The actual application of a ceramic coating is easier than wax, and maybe a little harder that sealant.


Pro vs. DIY ceramic
Pro products are marketed as having more and longer protection and greater gloss than the DIY versions. Because of the enhanced protection the application can become a little more difficult. Specifically getting the dry time correct. All I can say is this, I did my Mustang with the steps and products below. My father in law had his Callaway Corvette done professionally with Opticoat for $1000. He had his Hellcat done with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra for even more money. Now I can't speak to the protection these other products offer but if we parked all 3 cars next to each other you would never be able to pick out mine as DIY. :)


Brand
It seems like everyone and their brother has a ceramic coating out now. I use CarPro Cquartz and have had good like with it but there are plenty of great companies.

Here is exactly what I used, but pretty much all the good coating companies have similar products.


Coating https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Ceram...F8&qid=1527094196&sr=8-8&keywords=cquartz+kit for $100 you get the iron X, applicator, micro fiber, and reload. The reload is nice to use while drying every so often to get a little extra pop. I don't re use the MF towels after I use them for coating because ceramic crystals form that can scratch. As a matter of fact I fold the towel into quarters and use a fresh square every time.

Eraser https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Erase...&qid=1527094834&sr=8-1&keywords=car+pro+eraseYou can also use IPA mixed with distilled water to save a few bucks

Clay https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality...4894&sr=1-8&keywords=clay+bars+auto+detailing you can really use any good automotive clay or even a mitt. Just don't get anything too harsh

Polish https://www.amazon.com/3M-Imperial-...109&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=3m+hand+glaze&psc=1
Something like this works well although there are many out there.

Here are the steps:

Be sure the car is parked in the shade for the entire process. Ambient temps between 60 and 80 degrees work best.

1. Wash the car really well using CarPro Iron X.
2. Clay bar the vehicle using either a clay mitt or traditional bar. Be sure to use the appropriate lube.
3. Hand polish using a light polish containing no wax
4. Wash the car again. This is the one time I like to use something like dawn to be sure the car is completely free of grease and oils.
5. Go panel by panel using Carpro Eraser to be completely sure there aren't any waxes or oils left on the paint. Eraser a panel, then you coat it. For example; eraser your whole front fender, then coat it in 2 sections.

6. Now you're ready for the actual coating. Be sure to wear gloves. You don't want greasy paw prints on the car. I split the hood into 4 sections and did the rest of the car 1/2 panel at a time. The key is getting the dry time correct. If you try to take it off too soon you'll see that it's a little sticky. If you wait too long it's hard to get off. I found between 1-2 minutes worked well for me. If it's easy to get off your doing it right. The only danger here is to leave it on really long and get a high spot. A high spot is a dark area in your paint that won't come off without buffing. Keep cure time under 3 minutes and you'll have no worries.

You can do a second coat if you would like but I'd use your extra product on things like lights, wheels, and windshield.

Be sure to keep the car dry for 24 hours. You'll notice that when the car is fully cured the finish will pop even more. At this point you can hit the car with reload lightly if you wish.

It sounds like a lot but it only took me about 1/2 day and it was a 4 beer job. If I cut out the beer I probably could have shaved an hour off.

Do you need to use iron X if your going to clay the car? Probably not but its nice to do the wheels and such that you might not get with the bar.

For maintenance just wash using the 2 (3 for me) bucket method using your favorite PH balanced soap. I prefer CarPro Reset, personally. Coated cars are also perfect candidates for waterless, and rinseless washes. Every month or so I hit the car with reload while drying, again not really needed but I like the extra pop. I also have a magic elixir that I've been using with really good luck. Mostly because I can't leave well enough alone.

Good Luck
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Dark knight s550

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I've had great luck with ceramic coatings on all my vehicles so I thought I would post my process for those interested in DIYing this sort of thing.

The condition of your paint
The first thing you need to consider is the condition of your paint and the need for paint correction. If your paint is dull,scratched, swirled, or very heavily contaminated you should really start with paint correction. The reason behind this is you are basically locking in the condition of your paint for the life of the coating. Paint correction isn't rocket science either, but I think many of us would prefer to leave it to the pros.

For the majority of us that have newer cars with good paint. A clay bar and hand polish would work wonders by itself and is a good starting point for a coating.


Products

Wax,sealant, or ceramic coating
People can be very passionate about their choice of paint protection. For me all 3 are good choices depending on your goals. It really comes down to longevity. In my experience wax is good for around 3 months, sealant about 6 months, and ceramic coating 2 plus years (haven't found the end yet). As far as difficulty of application I would still argue the need for clay bar and polish for any of the 3. So really steps 1-5 are basically the same. The actual application of a ceramic coating is easier than wax, and maybe a little harder that sealant.


Pro vs. DIY ceramic
Pro products are marketed as having more and longer protection and greater gloss than the DIY versions. Because of the enhanced protection the application can become a little more difficult. Specifically getting the dry time correct. All I can say is this, I did my Mustang with the steps and products below. My father in law had his Callaway Corvette done professionally with Opticoat for $1000. He had his Hellcat done with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra for even more money. Now I can't speak to the protection these other products offer but if we parked all 3 cars next to each other you would never be able to pick out mine as DIY. :)


Brand
It seems like everyone and their brother has a ceramic coating out now. I use CarPro Cquartz and have had good like with it but there are plenty of great companies.

I used Cquartz kit and have been very happy with the results. Here is what I used, but pretty much all the good coating companies have similar products.


Coating https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Ceram...F8&qid=1527094196&sr=8-8&keywords=cquartz+kit for $100 you get the iron X, applicator, micro fiber, and reload. The reload is nice to use while drying every so often to get a little extra pop. I don't re use the MF towels after I use them for coating because ceramic crystals form that can scratch. As a matter of fact I fold the towel into quarters and use a fresh square every time.

Eraser https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Erase...&qid=1527094834&sr=8-1&keywords=car+pro+eraseYou can also use IPA mixed with distilled water to save a few bucks

Clay https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality...4894&sr=1-8&keywords=clay+bars+auto+detailing you can really use any good automotive clay or even a mitt. Just don't get anything too harsh

Polish https://www.amazon.com/3M-Imperial-...109&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=3m+hand+glaze&psc=1
Something like this works well although there are many out there.

Here are the steps:

Be sure the car is parked in the shade for the entire process. Ambient temps between 60 and 80 degrees work best.

1. Wash the car really well using CarPro Iron X.
2. Clay bar the vehicle using either a clay mitt or traditional bar. Be sure to use the appropriate lube.
3. Hand polish using a light polish containing no wax
4. Wash the car again. This is the one time I like to use something like dawn to be sure the car is completely free of grease and oils.
5. Go panel by panel using Carpro Eraser to be double sure there aren't any waxes or oils left on the paint. Eraser a panel, then you coat it. For example; eraser your whole front fender, then coat it in 2 sections.

6. Now you're ready for the actual coating. Be sure to wear gloves. You don't want greasy paw prints on the car. I split the hood into 4 sections and did the rest of the car 1/2 panel at a time. The key is getting the dry time correct. If you try to take it off too soon you'll see that it's a little sticky. If you wait too long it's hard to get off. I found between 1-2 minutes worked well for me. Basically if it's easy to get off your doing it right. You can do a second coat if you would like but I'd use your extra product on things like lights, wheels, and windshield.

Be sure to keep the car dry for 24 hours. You'll notice that when the car is fully cured the finish will pop even more.

It sounds like a lot but it only took me about 1/2 day and it was a 4 beer job. If I cut out the beer I probably could have shaved an hour off. I tend to be a little anal with this stuff. Do you need to use iron X if your going to clay the car? Probably not but its nice to do the wheels and such that you might not get with the bar. The second wash probably isn't critical since you're going to eraser the car anyway, but I like to be sure there is nothing on the paint.

For maintenance just wash using the 2 (3 for me) bucket method using your favorite PH balanced soap. I prefer CarPro Reset, personally. Coated cars are also perfect candidates for waterless, and rinseless washes. Every month or so I hit the car with reload while drying, again not really needed but I like the extra pop. I also have a magic elixir that I've been using with really good luck. Mostly because I can't leave well enough alone.

Good Luck
Nice write up. I want to try this as this Florida weather just destroys paint with the extreme heat and rain
 
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SVT-DADDY

SVT-DADDY

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:frusty:
Nice write up. I want to try this as this Florida weather just destroys paint with the extreme heat and rain
Thanks. It’s worth doing for sure if you’re battling the elements.
 

drabon74

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I have ceramic coated 6 cars, the flaw right now with most of the current ceramic coatings is they water spot pretty bad and to correct it most of the time it has to be polished off and reapplied. All the major coating mfgr’s are in a mad race to fix this. I have had cars with qtechniq c1, 22ple and Cquartz uk exhibit this issue. This is a well known issue, check out AutoGeek forums, there are lots of discussions on this issue. My last car did this when it got rained on, then the beaded water dried on the car and baked in the sun for a few days while I was out of town. The excellent beading of the coatings create this issue. If you drive the car after it gets wet then all the water rolls off harmlessly. If you catch it in 24 hours, my experience is you can wash it and eliminate the spotting.
I mention this because people think coatings are the end all in paint protection and rightfully so because of the way they are marketed. You still have to take precautions.
 

Lorne34

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I have ceramic coated 6 cars, the flaw right now with most of the current ceramic coatings is they water spot pretty bad and to correct it most of the time it has to be polished off and reapplied. All the major coating mfgr’s are in a mad race to fix this. I have had cars with qtechniq c1, 22ple and Cquartz uk exhibit this issue. This is a well known issue, check out AutoGeek forums, there are lots of discussions on this issue. My last car did this when it got rained on, then the beaded water dried on the car and baked in the sun for a few days while I was out of town. The excellent beading of the coatings create this issue. If you drive the car after it gets wet then all the water rolls off harmlessly. If you catch it in 24 hours, my experience is you can wash it and eliminate the spotting.
I mention this because people think coatings are the end all in paint protection and rightfully so because of the way they are marketed. You still have to take precautions.
I had this happen to my DIB with Modesta coating... they call it "dirty rain" I did not clean right away and the spots were really bad... nothing would take them out (vinegar mix, mcguires, etc..). Ended up going back to my detailer and purchasing a product called M5 flame.. worked fantastic!
 

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Lorne34

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I've had great luck with ceramic coatings on all my vehicles so I thought I would post my process for those interested in DIYing this sort of thing.



For maintenance just wash using the 2 (3 for me) bucket method using your favorite PH balanced soap. I prefer CarPro Reset, personally. Coated cars are also perfect candidates for waterless, and rinseless washes. Every month or so I hit the car with reload while drying, again not really needed but I like the extra pop. I also have a magic elixir that I've been using with really good luck. Mostly because I can't leave well enough alone.

Good Luck
Thanks! my vert is already ceramic coated, but I didn't pay the extra for the wheels.. does this work for the wheels/rims as well?
 
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SVT-DADDY

SVT-DADDY

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Thanks! my vert is already ceramic coated, but I didn't pay the extra for the wheels.. does this work for the wheels/rims as well?
Yes and if you don’t already have the coating you can get a product specially designed for wheels and trim. I used Carpro Dlux on my wheels,tires, and trim.
 

Lorne34

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Yes and if you don’t already have the coating you can get a product specially designed for wheels and trim. I used Carpro Dlux on my wheels,tires, and trim.
awesome! thanks.. I just had the painted surfaces ceramic coated, so that is great that I can do both wheels and trim at the same time..
 
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SVT-DADDY

SVT-DADDY

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awesome! thanks.. I just had the painted surfaces ceramic coated, so that is great that I can do both wheels and trim at the same time..
Definitely get Dlux then, its cheaper and you can do all the black plastic pieces that fade. I even did my tires!
 

Voo Doo

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Right on the Money!

SVT-DADDY. Excellent write up! :cheers: why others don’t at least try this themselves is beyond me?? I did everything in the order you stated but... I wet sanded my car on and off for 3 days! A little at a time 2500-3000 grit then Menzurna 3000 polish then....you’re right clean, clean, clean! I love Eraser!!

I also used CQuartz...UK for out north western climate. Reload is excellent for the pop but....I also use their ECH2O....a detailed which adds an extra deep POP !! I did my wheels in and out and for all glass I used their FlyBy coating!

OMG....you wash the car, I’m a 2 bucket guy!! lol....and at the end I take off the nozzle and let the water flow....the result is a 90% dry car!! It is completely hydrophobic!! Amazing product!!

ALL THIS ON A BLACK CARlll. Thanx Bro, great write up !
178B93CC-7474-40C3-8139-8E04FC18D0BD.jpeg
 

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SVT-DADDY

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SVT-DADDY. Excellent write up! :cheers: why others don’t at least try this themselves is beyond me?? I did everything in the order you stated but... I wet sanded my car on and off for 3 days! A little at a time 2500-3000 grit then Menzurna 3000 polish then....you’re right clean, clean, clean! I love Eraser!!

I also used CQuartz...UK for out north western climate. Reload is excellent for the pop but....I also use their ECH2O....a detailed which adds an extra deep POP !! I did my wheels in and out and for all glass I used their FlyBy coating!

OMG....you wash the car, I’m a 2 bucket guy!! lol....and at the end I take off the nozzle and let the water flow....the result is a 90% dry car!! It is completely hydrophobic!! Amazing product!!

ALL THIS ON A BLACK CARlll. Thanx Bro, great write up !
An oldtimer used to tell me that the best black paint looks like a dead pond. I'd say you've achieved that!

I've actually been using reload mixed with ECH2O, thats the magic elixir. Not that your car can get any shinier but here is some info on it:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...arpro-ech2o-reload-ratio-what-do-you-use.html

Good tip about the hose too.
 

randotheking

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I have ceramic coated 6 cars, the flaw right now with most of the current ceramic coatings is they water spot pretty bad and to correct it most of the time it has to be polished off and reapplied. All the major coating mfgr’s are in a mad race to fix this. I have had cars with qtechniq c1, 22ple and Cquartz uk exhibit this issue. This is a well known issue, check out AutoGeek forums, there are lots of discussions on this issue. My last car did this when it got rained on, then the beaded water dried on the car and baked in the sun for a few days while I was out of town. The excellent beading of the coatings create this issue. If you drive the car after it gets wet then all the water rolls off harmlessly. If you catch it in 24 hours, my experience is you can wash it and eliminate the spotting.
I mention this because people think coatings are the end all in paint protection and rightfully so because of the way they are marketed. You still have to take precautions.
What, really?? I get enough water spots as is, and if I'm dropping $1,000 on ceramic pro + correction, I would fully expect water spots and light scratches to be a thing of the past. Those are my primary concerns with Shadow Black
 

randotheking

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SVT-DADDY. Excellent write up! :cheers: why others don’t at least try this themselves is beyond me?? I did everything in the order you stated but... I wet sanded my car on and off for 3 days! A little at a time 2500-3000 grit then Menzurna 3000 polish then....you’re right clean, clean, clean! I love Eraser!!

I also used CQuartz...UK for out north western climate. Reload is excellent for the pop but....I also use their ECH2O....a detailed which adds an extra deep POP !! I did my wheels in and out and for all glass I used their FlyBy coating!

OMG....you wash the car, I’m a 2 bucket guy!! lol....and at the end I take off the nozzle and let the water flow....the result is a 90% dry car!! It is completely hydrophobic!! Amazing product!!

ALL THIS ON A BLACK CARlll. Thanx Bro, great write up !
You don't have to use ceramic coating to get this result. Pretty much any time you detail the car with wax or sealant it will do this as well. The thing you should watch for is longevity, which no one seems to talk about. After a few months wax starts to suck, sealant eventually as well. No one really talks about ceramic pro after they've had it for a few years in direct sunlight 24/7. Those are the reviews I'm after before I pull the trigger
 
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SVT-DADDY

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You don't have to use ceramic coating to get this result. Pretty much any time you detail the car with wax or sealant it will do this as well. The thing you should watch for is longevity, which no one seems to talk about. After a few months wax starts to suck, sealant eventually as well. No one really talks about ceramic pro after they've had it for a few years in direct sunlight 24/7. Those are the reviews I'm after before I pull the trigger
From my write up
Wax,sealant, or ceramic coating
People can be very passionate about their choice of paint protection. For me all 3 are good choices depending on your goals. It really comes down to longevity. In my experience wax is good for around 3 months, sealant about 6 months, and ceramic coating 2 plus years (haven't found the end yet). As far as difficulty of application I would still argue the need for clay bar and polish for any of the 3. So really steps 1-5 are basically the same. The actual application of a ceramic coating is easier than wax, and maybe a little harder that sealant.


My coating has been on close to 2 years and still looks day one. Never had any problems with water spots either, and my cars was stored outside last season. The whole point here is that if your paint doesn't need correction you don't have to spend $1000, you do it yourself for $100-$150
 

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From my write up
Wax,sealant, or ceramic coating
People can be very passionate about their choice of paint protection. For me all 3 are good choices depending on your goals. It really comes down to longevity. In my experience wax is good for around 3 months, sealant about 6 months, and ceramic coating 2 plus years (haven't found the end yet). As far as difficulty of application I would still argue the need for clay bar and polish for any of the 3. So really steps 1-5 are basically the same. The actual application of a ceramic coating is easier than wax, and maybe a little harder that sealant.


My coating has been on close to 2 years and still looks day one. Never had any problems with water spots either, and my cars was stored outside last season. The whole point here is that if your paint doesn't need correction you don't have to spend $1000, you do it yourself for $100-$150
Right on....I already had the Griots DA polisher...so with the exception of me going anal nuts and wet sanding..) the cost is around 100-150 as stated! All depends on what products you buy, how many nirofiber cloths do you really need?? (Can never have too many!!) just do it!!!! And post before and after pics!! I am forever getting compliments on the deep shine my Black Stang has....yesterday it was an older couple that parked beside me! She asked if it was special paint!!!!
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