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BBQ Tick After Oil Change...

offroadkarter

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wow I hope like hell mine doesn't get that loud. I would be taking that in and asking for a new engine asap
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CEHollier

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Mine started a couple of months ago after an oil change. Doesn't tick with cold start when temp is below 185* F. Sounds like above video. Non-rhythmic tapping at idle. Louder in hot weather. I noticed it has lessened as of yesterday. A friend had his lower replaced. He said cylinders 5 and 8 were scored. Can this simply be tested with a compression test? Or do the cylinders need to be scoped?
 

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TheLion

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Well, I figure I should bump this thread and get some opinions on what I am hearing tonight.

I'd like to preface this post with the statement that I had heard some of the earlier videos a while ago with obnoxious random rattling at idle and figured if I was listening for BBQ tick, I'd be listening for that.

Earlier this year when spring hit and I got the car out for the first time, I heard a very light rhythmic sound coming from the passenger side that I didn't not remember hearing before. I didn't really pay much mind to it at the time.

Every so often when I'd be in a drive thru or next to a wall, I'd hear that noise ever so slightly. Haven't thought much of it, car runs/drives fine and doesn't burn any oil. I'm used to very mechanical sounding engines like the eaton blower on my marauder or the vanos system on my m5.

Since I'm always paranoid and trying to find issues that may or may not exist with my car (I have been dealing with the driveline vibe since day 1), I started researching the BBQ tick again and decided to go have a listen to my car while it was cold and sitting for a couple days.

Now, I'm no engineer, but while the drivers side of the car is totally quiet, when I move the camera over to the passenger side and bump the throttle between 1-2000rpm, I can hear random ticks at time and it sure as hell sounds like the early stages of BBQ tick. I've NEVER heard this before, but yet again I've never been looking for it to this extent so I can see how I'd have missed it.

The car has 11,9xx miles on it, I had the oil changed roughly 900 miles ago I believe, pretty much when it got warm out I took the car in for an oil change since it was parked all winter (this car is stored during the winter months).

I'm just looking for some validation that I'm correct in thinking this is BBQ tick before I ring up my dealer and have them take a listen and tell me everything is normal.

I apologize that this video is a little long, just wanted to be thorough. At one point I move the camera from the side of the car to totally under the car and you can really hear the noises then.



Just to note: Since the car was new I always had the oil changed at the dealer. I believe I've been in for 3 now. The car has no powertrain mods, the only mod that went near the engine was the JLT catch can.
Yours sounds like a typical 5.0. Clanky at idle. My ecoboost was SUPER clanky. I swore it was going to blow up every time lol. When I traded it in, it has 36,000 miles on it with a Ford Performance Power Pack since 14k. Drove the piss out of it (maintained it well, but still driven hard). No issues.

Mine makes a "chuffing or puffing" sound some times like an old school carbonated engine with aggressive timing and cams (bit of a lope). It did that bone stock and with the Power Pack 2 I had installed at the dealer.

I can also hear a bit of a deep "knock" at idle that's rythmic and sounds exactly like yours when you put the camera under the car. It's always been there since I first got the car with only 5,600 miles on it and is still the same. No change with the Power Pack 2.

I also got some amplified ticking when I changed my oil and used Penzoil Ultra Platinum. Once it was due for a change again, I switched back to MC 5W-20 semi-syn to see if was still there and it was, just not as loud.

I have come to the conclusion that if you want fast and affordable, your going to get "clanky" along with it. At least with Ford's offerings. I don't think Dodge or Chevy is any different as I've listened to Hemi 5.7's and GM 5.3's that are just as clanky and noisy but run fine. And the 5.3's have half the valve, half the lifters and only one center cam / cam phasor.....

Remember you have 4 hydraulic cam phasors, 2 hydraulic chain guide / tensioners, 32 hydraulic lash adjusters, 32 valves and a slew of solenoids and pumps all doing different things at different times. Combine that with thinner weight 5W-20 oil for tight bearing clearances, a lightweight cast aluminum block, plastic valve covers and minimal sound dampening and you have a high degree of noise pollution. Heck even my wife's 2012 Prius C sounds very clanky at times, yet it runs like a champ we just got 52 mpg on our last trip. Might be a bit of piston slap or valve bucket / cam noise (normal for DAMBS) given its got 90k, but I run Mobile 1 full syn, OE filter and change every 10k as recommended.

If we do run into issues, that's what the warranty is for, but it is my understanding that the failure rate of 5.0's is less than 0.5% for both the Mustang AND F-150's. That's a lot of 5.0's that have no issues and I doubt they are all whisper quite.

My parents F-150 is clanky as well. It's a 2015 XLT with the 5.0. Sounds very similar to my Mustang GT with the hood open, but not it doesn't "chuff / phffuuff" like my 5.0, it's also tuned differently and has different cams given it's in the F-150. The F-150 has more sound dampening material as well, so you don't notice it's clanks, ticks and even "knocks" when the hood is down. Automatic transmissions also absorb some sound as well at the back of the block where the manual is a hollow cast aluminum housing....perfect sound amplifier. Manual GT's are just noisy, auto's are going to be a little quieter.

I think some of the noises are really only an issue once they become loud enough that it's easily heard outside and inside the car and the noise is very pronounced like in the 2018 above. Major problems are almost certain to throw engine codes and cause drive ability issues. Lower fuel economy, hesitation, stutter and even complete loss of power.

I said I'd post on this thread should I ever run into any issues with my GT. I'm at 18,900 miles. Had the Power Pack 2 for the last 1,600 miles. I ran 87 octane in the winter BEFORE it was tuned, then switched to 93 once spring hit and been running 93 since. Obviously I have to run 91 or higher now with the Power Pack 2 so it's on a premium fuel only diet from now on. Dealer installed and registered for warranty. Engine was bone stock prior and never tuned so it's only had the stock and now Ford Performance calibrations.

I've topped out 3rd and 4th many times, including with full passenger loads. I've done 20 minutes stints of constant back road hot rodding with 750 lbs of passengers (slightly over loaded) with the Power Pack 2 in 90F heat. Oil temps have never exceeded 3/4 of the "green" on the idiot gauge. Never a CEL. I did have the crank angle sensor error code when I first had the Power Pack 2 installed, did the re-learn and was fine just like everyone else.

Yes, some louder and more pronounced ticking or chuffing can be a bit annoying, but so far none of it has ever thrown a CEL or caused any drive ability issues. The car does seen to be sensitive to oil viscosity index, so I suggest sticking to oils with a viscosity index of around 160 to 165. MC 5W-20 is specified at 164. Higher means greater consistency of viscosity over its temp range. Even if it won't cause any functional or wear issues, people don't like clanky engines. My wife's Prius in all it's glorious 99 HP gets clanky as the oil thins the last couple thousand before it's due for change. Then quiets down a lot with fresh oil. There's NOTHING wrong with that car. When we first got it I thought the AC pump was going bad, it's really loud. That's just the trade off for an affordable, reliable fuel efficient car. Want more refinement? Buy a BMW or Mercedes!

Mobile 1 Advanced Full Synthetic is a really good oil with a much lower NOACK rating than MC 5W-20 (which it's it's one weakness, otherwise it performs exceptionally well and on par with many full synthetics). The new Mobile 1 formulas are also Dexos 1 Gen 2 rated, while we don't worry about LSPI in a 11:1 NA compression engine, we do have knock and ALL engines, NA or TDI, show reduced knock with knock resistant oil formulas, so it's a nice benefit for our NA 5.0's thanks to the TDI 4 cylinder woes of the past. Next oil change going to give Mobil 1 a try. Viscosity index is 160, meets both GM certs for the corvett engine and Ford's requirements for the 5.0.

I"d expect mechanical noise to be nearly identical with a similar viscosity index to MC-5W-20 where PUP was much lower at 145 and explains why it was clankier.

Also I recall that 2011-2014's had a tick that was actually caused by the AC compressor "stretchy" belt. It sounded exactly like a mechanical tick and Ford remedied that with a tensioner and new belt. Guess what? My 2016 as the "stretchy" AC belt and no tensionser....add that to the list of noise sources.
 
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Here's some more food for thought, how about the cam phasors? They are constantly changing phase angle up through the RPM range and load curves. It is entirely possible that the phasors point of change, since they are cam torque actuated, is the source of the random noise.

Ever look at a 5.0 dyno graph? There are quite a few points where you can see timing and cam changes and how they affect power output all the way from low RPM to red line.
 

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Please don't say Cam Phasors...my 2012 Roush had a bad cam phasor replaced at 18k miles...the next year same CEL code for Cam Phasor...and off she went to the dealer for a trade in on my new 2017 tickmobile:shrug:
 

NoVaGT

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Mines ticking away, don't know what to do about it. The engine runs fine, no loss of performance I can tell.

It seems many Mustangs have the tick, and it shows up at random times, disappears, gets worse, gets better, comes back.......

I'm going to remove my tune before I take it in, that's if I don't buy a 2018 GT in the next few days.
 

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Mine started a couple of months ago after an oil change. Doesn't tick with cold start when temp is below 185* F. Sounds like above video. Non-rhythmic tapping at idle. Louder in hot weather. I noticed it has lessened as of yesterday. A friend had his lower replaced. He said cylinders 5 and 8 were scored. Can this simply be tested with a compression test? Or do the cylinders need to be scoped?
Depends on the extent of damage. If its minor scoring then a leak down test likely won't show any compromise from the piston rings to the cylinder wall. However, if the scoring incurs significant gouging up and down the walls, then yes, a leak down test should detect this level of damage.
 

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I've done hours and hours of reading on this tick and most people say it's a completely random tick that doesn't change with RPM. However, mine does and past 2k RPM you can hardly hear it because it's ticking so fast. Anyone have the same experience?
 

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Mine doesn’t do it at idle. It’s onlh why driving from 2000-2500 rpm. It comes and it goes for 1k miles after an oil change.
 

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CEHollier

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https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/tsb05-14/tsb11-09-15.pdf I bought a mechanics stethoscope and probed the heads, egr valve, and around the timing chain listening for the tick. The front block area around the timing chain is where the sound is most pronounced. (Note TSB areas to listen) No doubt this is the area the sound is coming from. I had a buddy get a short block over the tick. He said two cylinders detonated and the cylinder walls were damaged. To me this makes sense. If the timing is off a little bit due to the tensioners a detonation can occur. Hence people getting new small blocks over the BBQ tick. I'm going to take my car in to the dealership and verify.
 
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TheLion

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Please don't say Cam Phasors...my 2012 Roush had a bad cam phasor replaced at 18k miles...the next year same CEL code for Cam Phasor...and off she went to the dealer for a trade in on my new 2017 tickmobile:shrug:
It would be interesting to see a poll on how many are tuned that have the BBQ tick and how many are stock. I wonder if there's any correlation? How about the Boss 302? The share common rotating assembly with the 2nd Generation 5.0 in 2015-2017 GT's. While the heads and pistons are slightly different, the 2nd generation 5.0's heads flow just as well as the CNC ported heads on the 302 according to the article's I've seen, which is why the 2nd gen picks up so much power compared to the first gen.
 

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It would be interesting to see a poll on how many are tuned that have the BBQ tick and how many are stock. I wonder if there's any correlation? How about the Boss 302? The share common rotating assembly with the 2nd Generation 5.0 in 2015-2017 GT's. While the heads and pistons are slightly different, the 2nd generation 5.0's heads flow just as well as the CNC ported heads on the 302 according to the article's I've seen, which is why the 2nd gen picks up so much power compared to the first gen.
Mine was not tuned when tick showed up after oil change...tuned now with Ford Power Pack 2 same tick...
 

CEHollier

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It would be interesting to see a poll on how many are tuned that have the BBQ tick and how many are stock. I wonder if there's any correlation? How about the Boss 302? The share common rotating assembly with the 2nd Generation 5.0 in 2015-2017 GT's. While the heads and pistons are slightly different, the 2nd generation 5.0's heads flow just as well as the CNC ported heads on the 302 according to the article's I've seen, which is why the 2nd gen picks up so much power compared to the first gen.
I have seen a number of low mileage stock posts with this issue. Would be interesting to see tune vs stock tick.
 

TheLion

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Mine was not tuned when tick showed up after oil change...tuned now with Ford Power Pack 2 same tick...
If it runs fine, no CEL and gas mileage is appropriate, then does it really matter? Unless it's so loud you can hear it over the radio and exhaust while driving...from what I've heard on the videos there are only a few that had such an abnormally loud noise you could possibly hear it over all the other noise sources.

Engines tick, they make sounds. Want something quieter and more refined? That's what brands like BMW, Mercedes, Audi and Lexus are for. They offer the performance but with greater refinement. My 5.0 isn't exactly "quite", it has plenty of clankyness to it, but to me it's just par for the course and not really any different than my Ecoboost which was just as clanky if not more so.

This doesn't seem to be a Ford phenomenon. There's a ton of "Hemi Tick" videos and forum posts out there as well and even plenty of LS and LT ones for the Vett's and Camaros. Seems like 90% of them are benine while only a handful are actual legitimate mechanical problems, which are almost always accompanied by misfire codes and other CEL indicators because the engine is actually not running correctly.
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