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First Oil change

When are you changing your oil

  • After full oil change cycle

    Votes: 138 42.5%
  • After 1,000 miles

    Votes: 181 55.7%
  • Immediately because I prefer XXX oil

    Votes: 6 1.8%

  • Total voters
    325

1380KPOI

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Chiming in relatively late on this thread. Based upon 540 Rat's blog, I'm going to change out to 0W-20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability--the highest film-strength 0W-20 of any oil he's tested, and the oil he personally uses. I can't find it at Wally World, and it's $8/quart at AutoZone, but given that this is the best car I've ever owned, I'll spend it for the cold-start wear protection. First change will be at 1000 miles.

Upthread, a commenter made a good point about a magnetic drain plug masking any Fe wear particle measurements from UOA (though the tradeoff is that it pulls those wear particles out of suspension so that they don't keep cycling through bearings). I have a spiffy blue magnetic plug on order, though now I might not bother to install it.

There's an interesting post on BITOG (also posted upthread) that points out that, per 1000 miles, the Fe particle accretion rate is *lower* for an extended drain interval than it is for a short interval, at least as far out as 10,000 miles. TBN and TAN become the limiting factors for condemning the oil at that point.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/
How did you like using QSUD 0W20? I enjoy reading over 540 RAT's blog. I sent him a new bottle of Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend which is what our vehicles come with from the factory. I was shocked with how much lower the PSI sheer value was compared with other oils he tested. I switched over to QSUD 5W20 for my application along with a Filtermag and a cheap donut ring magnet from Harbor Freight LOL
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Sig556

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How did you like using QSUD 0W20? I enjoy reading over 540 RAT's blog. I sent him a new bottle of Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend which is what our vehicles come with from the factory. I was shocked with how much lower the PSI sheer value was compared with other oils he tested. I switched over to QSUD 5W20 for my application along with a Filtermag and a cheap donut ring magnet from Harbor Freight LOL
If you had a steel Oil Pan you could go the low buck route and just hang a speaker magnet onto the bottom of the pan I have done this in the past.
 

1380KPOI

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If you had a steel Oil Pan you could go the low buck route and just hang a speaker magnet onto the bottom of the pan I have done this in the past.
Now that's an idea LOL. I purchased a small donut type magnet for $4 from Harbor Freight and stuck it at the bottom of the oil pan. It has a pull weight of 95 lbs. Unfortunately I don't have any additional speakers lying around :headbonk:
 

ahl395

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I changed at around 1-2k to get the "break in metal" out and installed two FilterMags on my oil filter, even better than a small magnetic drain plug.

Also changed my differential oil, lots of metal on the magnetic plug.
 

SVO MkII

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What is the torque spec on the EB oil drain plug?
 

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skytop1

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Torque setting on oil plug

What is the torque spec on the EB oil drain plug?
I have NEVER used a torque wrench on an oil plug. You should develop a 'feel' for it.
However, if you must play with a torque wrench, set it to 18 foot pounds for the oil plug.
 

SVO MkII

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I have NEVER used a torque wrench on an oil plug. You should develop a 'feel' for it.
However, if you must play with a torque wrench, set it to 18 foot pounds for the oil plug.
Is 18 the actual spec? It's important to know the spec, use a torque wrench the first couple times, and that will help you to establish the proper "feel". Just my "two cents".

Unfortunately, my "feel" is primarily with air cooled 911 engines. By comparison, a 3.2L 911 engine calls for 50 lbs on the motor drain and 30 lbs on the tank drain. Very different.
 

SVO MkII

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The Germans are known to over tighten everything.
I think it may have to do with the increased thermal expansion that the air cooled motor sees. It gets much hotter than a water cooled block.
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