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Better value first IRS mod...lock out kit or vertical links?

SVT-DADDY

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I'd like to reduce wheel hop a bit. I don't track the car or have FI (yet), it's a convertible.

I like to do one mod at a time. Should I start with vertical links or the IRS lock out?

Leaning towards the IRS lock out, but looking for feedback.

Thanks Steve
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JuRuKi

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lock out kit for sure! Vertical links didnt make much of a difference for me.
 

BmacIL

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Lockout kit by a large margin.
 

BMR Tech

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Lockout by 143.761 miles, then add another 19 miles to that.
 

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SVT-DADDY

SVT-DADDY

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lock out kit for sure! Vertical links didnt make much of a difference for me.
Lockout kit by a large margin.
Lockout by 143.761 miles, then add another 19 miles to that.
So it seems you all are favoring the lockout kit by a small margin. :lol:

Lock out it is thanks!

Since I have you all, do you know if there is much difference between standard strut mounts and PP strut mounts? There are 2 different part number....I know that much.
 

BmacIL

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So it seems you all are favoring the lockout kit by a small margin. :lol:

Lock out it is thanks!

Since I have you all, do you know if there is much difference between standard strut mounts and PP strut mounts? There are 2 different part number....I know that much.
The bushing is a firmer durometer for the PP mounts. I decided to get them when I did springs and dampers because they weren't that expensive (don't get the FRPP kit...that is a HUGE ripoff).
 

BMR Tech

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The difference is very minimal. Get whatever matches your budget or whatever is easier.

You will not notice much of any difference, I promise.
 

wmfateam

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I just bought the lockout as my first mod.
 

Bluemustang

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Lockout by a mile and a half
 

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yomamma219

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So i looked at the youtube video from BMR and some pictures of the rear suspension but I am a bit puzzled on what the lockout kit actually does. I know it "stiffens" the supsension and "reduces deflection" or whatever the marketing people decided to say but I am curious from a more technical perspective.

From what I could see it seems to replace one of the factory connections/mounts? I am guessing this is the cradle bushing mount, not sure if that is the correct term? Then it just provides a stiffer connection to the frame? Is this the general idea? Does it alter any of the suspension geometry or just stiffen dynamic components of it. I ask because it seems to alter the connection point.

I am curious why it seems so highly recommended? How is the factory one so sub-par? I recently upgraded my wheels/tires and have been experiencing a lot more wheel hop when I am trying to just spin my rear wheels which is what led me to start inquiring about the issue more.
 

BmacIL

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So i looked at the youtube video from BMR and some pictures of the rear suspension but I am a bit puzzled on what the lockout kit actually does. I know it "stiffens" the supsension and "reduces deflection" or whatever the marketing people decided to say but I am curious from a more technical perspective.

From what I could see it seems to replace one of the factory connections/mounts? I am guessing this is the cradle bushing mount, not sure if that is the correct term? Then it just provides a stiffer connection to the frame? Is this the general idea? Does it alter any of the suspension geometry or just stiffen dynamic components of it. I ask because it seems to alter the connection point.

I am curious why it seems so highly recommended? How is the factory one so sub-par? I recently upgraded my wheels/tires and have been experiencing a lot more wheel hop when I am trying to just spin my rear wheels which is what led me to start inquiring about the issue more.
Locks out lateral, longitudinal and (hugely) vertical movement of the subframe on its bushings, which have huge voids and a lot of vertical room to the stops/body. It replaces the stock shear plate with a front arm that is key to locking out the lateral and longitudinal movement, as well as centering the cradle pretty well. It does not alter suspension geometry.

The subframe is designed for NVH isolation. The lockout makes noise from bumps slightly more audible, but does not change the ride quality in a significant way.

Watch the BMR video from 1:30s and see the massive reduction in subframe movement, which allows for the majority of the wheelhop.
 

Spartanator

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Lockout kit is good, I did ALL my suspension at once. Took about 10-12 hours for all mine.
 

BMR Tech

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So i looked at the youtube video from BMR and some pictures of the rear suspension but I am a bit puzzled on what the lockout kit actually does. I know it "stiffens" the supsension and "reduces deflection" or whatever the marketing people decided to say but I am curious from a more technical perspective.

From what I could see it seems to replace one of the factory connections/mounts? I am guessing this is the cradle bushing mount, not sure if that is the correct term? Then it just provides a stiffer connection to the frame? Is this the general idea? Does it alter any of the suspension geometry or just stiffen dynamic components of it. I ask because it seems to alter the connection point.

I am curious why it seems so highly recommended? How is the factory one so sub-par? I recently upgraded my wheels/tires and have been experiencing a lot more wheel hop when I am trying to just spin my rear wheels which is what led me to start inquiring about the issue more.
Here is a good thread for you to look through.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23215

Since I was behind the design of this piece, I will make it really simple.

Our CB005 is a unique design. Unlike any other kit, it actually locks out the center sleeves to the actual CRADLE by the upper lockout rings fitting over the sleeves snug, and protruding DOWN and over the actual bushing housing / portion of the cradle. We saw zero need to fill the voids in that location, as the void between the chassis and the bushings is the most important to prevent vertical movement.

The lower rear lockout plate simply fits over the rear lower bushing sleeve end plate and protrudes UP to fix the cradle position and prevent the rear of the cradle from dropping down, as it wants to do due to the torque twist applied through the differential.

The front lower lockout washers fill the gap between the bushing and the mounting point, preventing the cradle from bouncing and dropping under braking - or if you race in reverse! :crazy:

The front lower braces are there for increased rigidity, a jacking point, squaring the cradle within the chassis and to help support the front cradle mounting bolts.

The CB005 was designed to be and has been accepted as one of the very best modifications you can make for increased (ALL AROUND) performance on the S550. It has set drag strip records and won quite a few road course and autocross events - and is right at home on a daily driven car.

:thumbsup:
 

BMR Tech

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To add, you can actually remove the rubber bushing material from the center of all 4 bushings on the S550 cradle - and our CB005 will STILL work.

That alone is enough to explain how well the product works. ;)
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