Best shop in Miami for ceramic coating?

Hey guys I just picked up a 2018 5.0 with pp1 and digital dash so I want to try and keep this car in better shape than my last because I plan on keeping it for the next 4-5 years. I plan on getting the car ceramic coated and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on certified installers in the Miami area.

I don't have anyone near Miami, but check out Andrew Barry near Tampa. I'm taking my car and my wife's to him in the coming months (after I pay off some bills).

JR

There's a guy named Dale Androsky that a lot of people in the Stangs of South Florida group use.

My only concern for Andrew Barry is that it isn't the "proper" Cquartz iirc. He still does amazing work on the paint correction front and even if he uses consumer ceramic coating products, it will work well and his is a fraction of the cost (I've seen him quote 450-500) of others.

Nagare said:

There's a guy named Dale Androsky that a lot of people in the Stangs of South Florida group use.

My only concern for Andrew Barry is that it isn't the "proper" Cquartz iirc. He still does amazing work on the paint correction front and even if he uses consumer ceramic coating products, it will work well and his is a fraction of the cost (I've seen him quote 450-500) of others.

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Do you happen to know the name of his detailing shop?

If your paint is good, do it yourself. Especially if they are not using the pro products. It's painfully easy. I can outline the steps if your interested.

Dark knight s550 said:

Do you happen to know the name of his detailing shop?

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I don't, look up the group and you can find him though.

As far as product, Dale is definitely using the pro products but I wouldn't mind your steps! Specifically pads and polish/compounds used. I've got a DA already and might look at trying Cquartz UK later in the year.

SVT-DADDY said:

If your paint is good, do it yourself. Especially if they are not using the pro products. It's painfully easy. I can outline the steps if your interested.

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I wouldn’t mind the steps either. The only reason I have not attempted to do it myself is because I do not own a DA and by the time I go out and buy a good one such as a rupes or similar and get the iron x, pads, and everything else you need to do it properly I would probably be at about half the cost of paying someone else to do it. I just hesitate to have any random person do my car without having some good things said about them or seeing their work.

Depends on who it is and what they use. If you're not doing it (semi) professionally and on a regular basis, I don't think you need to go for the bigger reputable brands like Rupes or Torq. I went with a Harbor Freight one and if I ever push it so hard it breaks, that means I got my use out of it and should upgrade it. It definitely worked well enough last time I used it, but I have lots of light scratches from spiked leaves falling on my car.

If your paint doesn't need correction you don't really need to DA it. A hand polish will bring up the shine. If your car has swirls, scratches, etc. Then yes a DA polish is in order.

Dark knight s550 said:

I wouldn’t mind the steps either. The only reason I have not attempted to do it myself is because I do not own a DA and by the time I go out and buy a good one such as a rupes or similar and get the iron x, pads, and everything else you need to do it properly I would probably be at about half the cost of paying someone else to do it. I just hesitate to have any random person do my car without having some good things said about them or seeing their work.

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I used Cquartz kit and have been very happy with the results. Here is what I used:

Coating https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Ceram...F8&qid=1527094196&sr=8-8&keywords=cquartz+kit for $100 you get the iron X, applicator, micro fiber, and reload. The reload is nice to use while drying every so often to get a little extra pop. I don't re use the MF towels after I use them for coating because ceramic crystals form that can scratch. As a matter of fact I fold the towel into quarters and use a fresh square every time.

Eraser https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Erase...&qid=1527094834&sr=8-1&keywords=car+pro+eraseYou can also you IPA mixed with distilled water to save a few bucks

Clay https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality...4894&sr=1-8&keywords=clay+bars+auto+detailing you can really use any automotive clay or even a mitt

Polish https://www.amazon.com/3M-Imperial-...109&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=3m+hand+glaze&psc=1
Something like this works well although there are many out there.

Here are the steps:

1. Wash the car really well using CarPro Iron X.
2. Clay bar the vehicle using either a clay mitt or traditional bar. Be sure to use the appropriate lube.
3. Hand polish using a light polish containing no wax
4. Wash the car again. This is the one time I like to use something like dawn to be sure the car is completely free of grease and oils
5. Go panel by panel using Carpro Eraser to be double sure there aren't any waxes or oils left on the paint. Eraser a panel, then you coat it. For example eraser your whole front fender, then coat it in 2 sections.

I split the hood into 4 sections and did the rest of the car 1/2 panel at a time. The key is getting the dry time correct. If you try to take it off too soon you'll see that it's a little sticky. If you wait too long it's hard to get off. I found between 1-2 minutes worked well for me. Be sure to wear gloves. You don't want greasy paw prints on the car.

You can also do you wheels, lights, and windshield.

It sounds like a lot but it only took me about 1/2 day and it was a 4 beer job. If I cut out the beer I probably could have shaved an hour off. I tend to be a little anal with this stuff. Do you need to use iron X if your going to clay the car? Probably not but its nice to do the wheels and such that you might not get with the bar. The second wash probably isn't critical since your going to eraser the car anyway, but I like to be sure there is nothing on the paint.

I did my Mustang with the steps and products above. My father in law had his Callway Corvette done professionally with Opticoat for $1000. He had his Hellcat done with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra for even more money. Now can't speak to the protection these other products offer but if we parked all 3 cars next to each other you would never be able to pick out mine as DIY.

Nagare said:

My only concern for Andrew Barry is that it isn't the "proper" Cquartz iirc. He still does amazing work on the paint correction front and even if he uses consumer ceramic coating products, it will work well and his is a fraction of the cost (I've seen him quote 450-500) of others.

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I'm not sure what the 'proper' Cquartz is, whether it's consumer vs. professional grade, but he's also a certified Ceramic Pro installer. Of course, Ceramic Pro is significantly more expensive than Cquartz.

JR

Exactly, just wanted to make sure it was clear that you're not getting the full Ceramic Pro treatment for the $450 price. I wasn't 100% on the brand he uses, should have but ceramic instead of Cquartz though.

Dark knight s550 said:

Do you happen to know the name of his detailing shop?

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Diamond Shine Motorsports - https://www.facebook.com/diamondshi...&timeline_context_item_source=100004962361168

JR

For what it's worth this popped up today...Seems like it could be worth it if you go in knowing that you're going to get less than a year out of the coating. The guy who decided to get his done with proper Ceramic Pro now had his car coated early-mid December 2017.

Black = bystander that is going to be getting his next car coated at some point
Red = guy that had it coated December 2017 (so his coating is shit after 6 months it seems)
Green = guy that had his coated before and it didn't last and isn't happy with DSM (Andrew Barry, only name I didn't cover)

edit » not saying his work is bad or anything, just want people to be aware for the different results you may have. From everything I've seen, his paint correcting is great.

Here is Dale's page: https://www.facebook.com/easisbest/

Based out of Margate