BL Fabrications 88/96 turbo install on 2019 Bullitt

[DougS550]

Custom ac lines....

Agree, All AC, and any other line can be easily fabricated for the install. I just hate to see how bad OP will feel when he does drive in humid 90+ weather. I wish him good luck with his install.

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[NGOT8R]

This will be fun to follow! I know it will be well documented with pictures! I'm also wondering if it would have been easier just to pull the engine out of the car? Considering you have the lift, you could have pulled it out the bottom and lifted the car in the air. Might be a bit easier working on things that way.

I thought about that, but didn’t want to disconnect the ds and struts etc. and mess with the alignment. I’m trying not to get any further into the weeds on this one than I have to, but I won’t completely rule it out.

 

[NGOT8R]

I see you’ve got axles in the part pile. I assume those are upgrades for the power. Are you replacing the driveshaft? What is your plan for the transmission ? I bring this up because my car is 809/611 rear wheel but is capable of much more, I just don’t want to grenade the mt82. I made the mistake of upgrading the driveshaft first and now I’m wanting to get a Tremec magnum xl which will need a different driveshaft. Just something for you to think about for the future. I’ll be watching and rooting for your progress.

-JB

Those are actually the factory axles. I already have Ford Performance axles on the car. I have the Steeda 1 piece aluminum ds in the car too. Transmission was rebuilt snd upgraded as far as I could take it at 5600 miles and the car currently has 8800 miles on it.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mt82-d4-rebuild-thread.176240/

 

[NGOT8R]

Agree, All AC, and any other line can be easily fabricated for the install. I just hate to see how bad OP will feel when he does drive in humid 90+ weather. I wish him good luck with his install.

This may be an option, but I’ll have to get all of the turbo components in the car and see if/how much room is available for custom lines. As it sits now, a shoehorn would almost be needed to even fit my headers in there.

There’s another member on here building his own turbo kit using BL Fab headers. We’ve been pic oaring notes and he admits that it’s too tight. His headers don’t even have the v-band clamps welded on, whereas mine do. His plan is to run a straight pipe off of his headers, then add a 90* pipe with a v-band clamp on it.

I have an alternative idea on how to stay cool if I need to. Don’t laugh, but here it is.

https://gobiheat.com/products/breez...MI66G42Ku4kQMVd4VaBR0CRTWKEAQYASABEgJD__D_BwE

 

[wingnutt]

Pffffft, you don’t need no silly AC…

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...m_term=4580634179352842&utm_content=Catch-All

 

[NGOT8R]

Pffffft, you don’t need no silly AC…

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/13-23997.php?adlclid=296e9323bb9e1017a235fa1fde4a32a4&msclkid=296e9323bb9e1017a235fa1fde4a32a4&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=[ADL] [US] [Shopping] Catch-All&utm_term=4580634179352842&utm_content=Catch-All

I like that! Delete the passenger seat and make a bracket to secure it. I’ll keep this in mind for sure.

 

[nameuser]

Close friend of mine had a Camaro from the 80’s set up for Mid Ohio. He did similar but with a styrofoam cooler and dryer vent for weight savings. Had a small fan that pushed the cool air.

 

[wingnutt]

Close friend of mine had a Camaro from the 80’s set up for Mid Ohio. He did similar but with a styrofoam cooler and dryer vent for weight savings. Had a small fan that pushed the cool air.

yep, that’s how it started…in airplanes too, but then someone decided to make it official and charge 1200 clams for it

 

[NGOT8R]

I finally got the last two stubborn header bolts out of the driver’s side header and got the header out. It came down to using a can of Lucas penetrating oil, a heat gun and a long 1/4” drive extension to tap the heads of the bolt and header flange to allow the penetrating oil to soak into the threads of the bolts. I’m actually really surprised that I had to do this, given that I used anti seize on all bolts when the headers were installed. I even broke a socket during the process.​

In addition, the passenger side Steeda motor mount bolt was also seized. I had to get creative to break it loose. Notice the corrosion on the bolts in just 5 years and only 8800 miles on the car. Needless to say, I will be replacing the hardware upon reinstallation.

Here’s the assortment of tools needed to deal with the motor mounts and headers.

- 13MM sockets and extensions
- 1/4”, 3/8 and 1/2” ratchets
- 13MM S-wrench
- 13MM box wrench

Now to get that AC, lines and condenser removed gain a lot more clearance. Hopefully next week will be a productive week.

 

[robvas]

What brand socket was that?

 

[NGOT8R]

What brand socket was that?

It was an off brand cheap kit (1/4” drive). I used it because it was the only shallow 13MM socket in my arsenal that would fit in the confined space with my low profile Gearwrench ratchet.

 

[robvas]

Check out the Quinn or Astro nano sockets

 

[NGOT8R]

Check out the Quinn or Astro nano sockets

Will do. Thanks!

 

[robvas]

1/2" version but compare to a regular ratchet and socket

 

[NGOT8R]

1/2" version but compare to a regular ratchet and socket

Oh yeah, those are nice!

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