How to Retain Handling Without Front Sway Bar

[tosha]

Price isn’t an issue at this point.

well, that's great then, McLaren figured it out with their MP4-12C. Just send the car to them



just kiddin, don't take it seriously. I have no idea what to suggest here. don't know if it's even legal to drive cars with such mods on the street.

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[QBailey]

well, that's great then, McLaren figured it out with their MP4-12C. Just send the car to them



just kiddin, don't take it seriously. I have no idea what to suggest here. don't know if it's even legal to drive cars with such mods on the street.

What’s their address? lmao!

Between the built motor, built t56 trans, clutch, fuel system, k member, driveshaft and the blower kit, a custom sway bar would be a drop in the bucket.

 

[NTXChris]

If you're going to coilovers, talk to the manufacturer and tell them that you're removing the sway bar. They can compensate by changing the spring rate and valving.

 

[DougS550]

Installing a procharger stage 2 kit with crank support on my 17 GT, sway bar has to go. What can be done to maintain decent handling characteristics? This is a performance pack car so it does handle decently and I hate that the sway bar is coming out, hoping there is a potential remedy.

If the Sway bar could be cut/notched out on the top side where it comes in contact with the bottom of the Crank support, and fit. I would make the necessary cut out on the top side of the sway bar until it clears the bottom of the crank support. Contact a steel fabricating shop and tell them you want the sway bar supported from the bottom side enough to where it has the same strength as OEM sway bar, have it heat treated for proper hardness, reinstall and call it a day. Fabricating or modifying a sway bar isn't the problem, its getting a shop who will do the One Off work that is. Good Luck

 

[NightmareMoon]

If the Sway bar could be cut/notched out on the top side where it comes in contact with the bottom of the Crank support, and fit. I would make the necessary cut out on the top side of the sway bar until it clears the bottom of the crank support. Contact a steel fabricating shop and tell them you want the sway bar supported from the bottom side enough to where it has the same strength as OEM sway bar, have it heat treated for proper hardness, reinstall and call it a day. Fabricating or modifying a sway bar isn't the problem, its getting a shop who will do the One Off work that is. Good Luck

I mean, yeah, you could probably weld up something. I wouldn't run the bar notched however, it would probably just snap unless you really really know what you're doing.

Entirely without a front bar, I think you'd need to compensate by running some pretty stiff front springs to get the body roll back under control. You're basically in no-man's-land as far as handling setup goes. Good luck.

 

[Dana Pants]

You could also use roll center correction so help reduce the car’s tendency to roll.

 

[DougS550]

I mean, yeah, you could probably weld up something. I wouldn't run the bar notched however, it would probably just snap unless you really really know what you're doing.

Entirely without a front bar, I think you'd need to compensate by running some pretty stiff front springs to get the body roll back under control. You're basically in no-man's-land as far as handling setup goes. Good luck.

That's why I said after it has been notched, have a machine/fabricating shop weld up, beef up the bottom side to where it has the same OEM strength. Then have it Heat treated to maintaining the Hardness/flexibility of the OEM Sway Bar. Not a Hugh modification, done stuff like this on a regular basis when I was racing, building motorcycles, cars with my friends.

 

[QBailey]

If the Sway bar could be cut/notched out on the top side where it comes in contact with the bottom of the Crank support, and fit. I would make the necessary cut out on the top side of the sway bar until it clears the bottom of the crank support. Contact a steel fabricating shop and tell them you want the sway bar supported from the bottom side enough to where it has the same strength as OEM sway bar, have it heat treated for proper hardness, reinstall and call it a day. Fabricating or modifying a sway bar isn't the problem, its getting a shop who will do the One Off work that is. Good Luck

If only it were that easy. The sway bar is basically level with the crank, so it goes right through the middle of the crank support. It would need to extend farther forward and pass between the support and radiator fans. If that makes sense. I’ll attach a picture of one I installed on a gt350 to hopefully help you visualize.

 

[QBailey]

That's why I said after it has been notched, have a machine/fabricating shop weld up, beef up the bottom side to where it has the same OEM strength. Then have it Heat treated to maintaining the Hardness/flexibility of the OEM Sway Bar. Not a Hugh modification, done stuff like this on a regular basis when I was racing, building motorcycles, cars with my friends.

In other words, there’s no notching that can be done. You’d have to cut the bar and change some of the bend angles and weld it back together.

 

[K4fxd]

I'd contact Steeda hopefully they make their sway bar's in house, have them fab up a bar that fits. It won't be cheap but then you get a bar and Steeda has another part number for others who may want this same bar and crank support setup. @tj@steeda

 

[DougS550]

In other words, there’s no notching that can be done. You’d have to cut the bar and change some of the bend angles and weld it back together.

If ground clearance would not be an issue, A little harder but doable: Then mark the location which would contact the crank support. NOTE how far that area of the sway bar would have to be lowered to safely clear the Crank Support.
** Buy or borrow a used Front sway bar. Give them both to the machine/fabricating shop
** Tell the shop you need the marked sway bar area cutout and lowered ( What ever depth you measured) request they cut out that area, machine/weld/fabricate/beef up to your requested lowering measurements. Have them heat treat to meet the same hardness level. Install. Fabricating, machining/modifying parts is all part of the game of performance. This would be baby steps compared to what myself and friends had to do when we were racing.

 

[QBailey]

I'd contact Steeda hopefully they make their sway bar's in house, have them fab up a bar that fits. It won't be cheap but then you get a bar and Steeda has another part number for others who may want this same bar and crank support setup. @tj@steeda

I have sent them several emails but haven’t ever received a response back. I think there’s definitely a market for this bar especially since I’ve seen so many broken crank snouts lately. Not just on procharger setups either.

If ground clearance would not be an issue, A little harder but doable: Then mark the location which would contact the crank support. NOTE how far that area of the sway bar would have to be lowered to safely clear the Crank Support.
** Buy or borrow a used Front sway bar. Give them both to the machine/fabricating shop
** Tell the shop you need the marked sway bar area cutout and lowered ( What ever depth you measured) request they cut out that area, machine/weld/fabricate/beef up to your requested lowering measurements. Have them heat treat to meet the same hardness level. Install. Fabricating, machining/modifying parts is all part of the game of performance. This would be baby steps compared to what myself and friends had to do when we were racing.

Unfortunately we are not “back in the day” and most places won’t touch stuff like this anymore for insurance reasons.

 

[K4fxd]

If Steeda is not interested I'd look for a fab shop. It shouldn't be too hard to pull off.

 

[DougS550]

I have sent them several emails but haven’t ever received a response back. I think there’s definitely a market for this bar especially since I’ve seen so many broken crank snouts lately. Not just on procharger setups either.


Unfortunately we are not “back in the day” and most places won’t touch stuff like this anymore for insurance reasons.

I definitely agree on that. And the small machine/fabricating shops are pretty much gone. A lost art for sure.

 

[AZlb5.0]

When you get kits like these, they are single purpose kits. Meaning point them and send them.

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