Has anyone installed a Rockford Fosgate DSR1?

[nrm101]

According to iDatalink’s Maestro website, 2018-2020 Mustangs with amplifiers (9 or 12 speakers) use the aFO3 harness:

It is also known that programming the DSR1 is a bear with Android devices. If you have access to an iPhone or iPad, try that in conjunction with the proper harness. During the initial PC setup, you should have seen the aFO3 harness as a necessary item for the integration.

Thanks but its a 2019... with B&O 2018 i think still had the shaker system... but i will give it a try with an Iphone and see if i get any better results...

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[OF5.0]

Thanks but its a 2019... with B&O 2018 i think still had the shaker system... but i will give it a try with an Iphone and see if i get any better results...

B&O was used in 2018 to 2020.

Check https://maestro.idatalink.com/

 

[nrm101]

B&O was used in 2018 to 2020.

Check https://maestro.idatalink.com/

The image is from there says Afo2

 

[OF5.0]

The image is from there says Afo2

There has been a lot of confusion over the aFO2 and aFO3 harnesses. I would call iDatalink’s toll-free number for confirmation. I would agree that the aFO2 harness is correct, but there have been iDatalink webpages that state that the aFO3 harness is for any amplified system (9 and 12 speakers).

 

[nrm101]

There has been a lot of confusion over the aFO2 and aFO3 harnesses. I would call iDatalink’s toll-free number for confirmation. I would agree that the aFO2 harness is correct, but there have been iDatalink webpages that state that the aFO3 harness is for any amplified system (9 and 12 speakers).

Called both RF, and Maestro ... initial reactions were nothing seems wrong, but there defiantly something isn't right, i spent another couple hours flashing and resetting defaults, and still I basically have a usable volume range from 18 - 27, anything below 18 almost not audible. VERY frustrating. Going to keep working with Maestro and see what can be done...

 

[Cobra Jet]

I would order the afo3 harness and swap it with the afo2 and see what happens... it’s worth a shot and you should be able to return whichever isn’t needed afterwards.

Also remember, Ford does a lot of mid year changes to modules, software updates and body harnesses - just because you have a 2019, doesn’t mean it’s all “2019” components. What’s your build date? To find it look at the large white VCL label on driver side B-pillar with door open. The build date will be upper left corner (MO/YR).

There have been posts on here too where owners have found incorrect modules installed from Ford or modules that don’t have same Ford part #’s as an equivalent vehicle built within 6 Mos of each other.

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Try doing the firmware update again to the DSR1 - it’s also possible the firmware did not do a clean update.

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I would also go back and check to make sure your add in of an LC4 and LC6 installs aren’t interfering with any signals.

 

[OF5.0]

The aFO2 harness is the correct harness for the S550 Mustang with any version of the 12-speaker system, per iDatalink tech support.

 

[Yilly1108]

In the schematic, “Step 2” shows the provided harnesses to mate up with the factory wiring for the headunit signals and the speakers. The black harness contains the outputs from the head unit. The grey and brown harnesses are the speaker leads. You provide the speaker wires from your amp or passive crossovers for the brown and grey harnesses. It’s drawn this way because you have the option of setting up a fully active system [no external passive crossovers, direct from the amplifier(s)] or using passive crossovers after the amplifier(s).

So do I completely remove the factory amp?

 

[OF5.0]

So do I completely remove the factory amp?

You do not have to. It’s your call.

 

[Yilly1108]

You do not have to. It’s your call.

I can't figure out where it will fit. What did you do? Also, thanks for the reply.

 

[StangTime]

So do I completely remove the factory amp?

Just an FYI. If you remove the factory amp, all warning chimes and backup sensor beeps will come through the speaker in the speedo cluster and not through the stereo. Yes there is a speaker in the speedo gauge as a backup. If the car detects that the OEM amp is no longer on the can bus it sends those chimes there and if you do a scan for trouble codes, you'll see a message about it.

I don't have my factory amp in the car anymore and it works just fine this way.

 

[OF5.0]

You can use an iDATALINK MAESTRO HRN-AR-EXT4 4-METER EXTENSION HARNESS for mounting the DSR1 in the trunk.

 

[Yilly1108]

You can use an iDATALINK MAESTRO HRN-AR-EXT4 4-METER EXTENSION HARNESS for mounting the DSR1 in the trunk.

I just ordered it

 

[Tycoon]

I can't figure out where it will fit. What did you do? Also, thanks for the reply.

I removed the factory amp and mounted the dsr1 to the factory amp mount and then reinstalled the factory mount in its original location. I have a problem where my amps turn off sometimes. It hasn’t happened yet this week and am not sure if the dsr1 is not supplying the amps a turn on signal or if I have some other problem yet. I have my multimeter in the car with me. If it happens again I’m going to check the voltage at the remote turn on at the first amp (I have two amps daisy chained). I’ve read elsewhere there are problems with sound turning off. I’m thinking the dsr1 sometimes doesn’t provide adequate voltage for a remote turn on signal, perhaps especially with two amps. If I could see the dsr1 I could visually check to see if it trips out when sounds turns off.

 

[OF5.0]

I removed the factory amp and mounted the dsr1 to the factory amp mount and then reinstalled the factory mount in its original location. I have a problem where my amps turn off sometimes. It hasn’t happened yet this week and am not sure if the dsr1 is not supplying the amps a turn on signal or if I have some other problem yet. I have my multimeter in the car with me. If it happens again I’m going to check the voltage at the remote turn on at the first amp (I have two amps daisy chained). I’ve read elsewhere there are problems with sound turning off. I’m thinking the dsr1 sometimes doesn’t provide adequate voltage for a remote turn on signal, perhaps especially with two amps. If I could see the dsr1 I could visually check to see if it trips out when sounds turns off.

Regarding your amp turn-on/turn-off issue, connect the remote turn-on lead from the DSR1 to a relay. The amps may be pulling a turn-on current draw bigger than the DSR1’s output can provide.

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