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2022 Mustang GT with Performance Package - Getting it ready for track events?

Kennysum1

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Hey everyone,

So I picked up a brand new 2022 GT. I am very familiar with the platform from a drag racing perspective but not from a road course event perspective.

First thing I am noticing is that heat is a big issue for these cars. Seeing lots of threads on that. Checking Lethal Performaces website and a few others I do not see anything for 2022MY. Is it essentially the same as the 21?

What is the best cooling (motor, Trans etc) in your opinion?

Rim and tire setup: Total rookie here for this car. I am thinking a 11 inch wide rim square setup, maybe 315s? 17, 18, or 19 inch? Not sure. Would love some advice.

Suspension: how does the stock perform? It does not have the magnetic ride control and I do not mind spending the money to pull the stock stuff out and upgrading it. Also open to suggestions.

Brakes: Already have some high temp brake fluideft over from my other cars. I'm sure I can research a good set of pads but what about cooling? Does any company offer some good after market ducting etc? How do the stock Brimbo rotors hold up with proper pads and fluid?

Car is a manual if it helps.


Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read through all of this and throw some information my way. I will continue my own researching. Just wanted to make this thread incase someone who has already been there and done it wants to point me in the right direction.
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shogun32

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don't rev the motor into the stratosphere 3500-6500 rpm is plenty
only certain 18" will fit over the brakes. choose carefully.
ducting is a waste of time. you already have "active" air cooling of the front brakes.

Aside from fixing the problematic rubber bushings everywhere, your immediate need is camber plates.

I recommend several hours reading the Suspension section of the board. Your questions will answer themselves.
 
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Kennysum1

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Thanks you 2. Will be reading up. Found some good parts to start with on CJ Pony Parts. Misimoto radiator, proper rim and tire setup.

Will probably get some Carbotech brake pads and see how it runs from there.

Then test as I go.
 

NightmareMoon

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Skip the ducts, btdt and deflectors like the stock ones seem to just work better and less annoying crunching duct hose. The car underbody on the PP1 is designed to route air those deflector plates and it works. If you must, Vorshlag sells larger plates which fit well.

Cooling on the rear diff can be an issue, but usually with 75w140 oil swap and some heat wrap around the adjacent exhaust pipes which surround it, its fine so long as you have a reasonable time for it to cool between sessions. Engine heat shouldn’t be an issue at all.

Yes to good high temp brake fluid

Camber plates if you want to run wide tires (305/315), fit them under the fenders, and not waste the sidewalls.

Don’t overthink it before you go out and drive. You may not have as many issues as you think.
 

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Kennysum1

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Skip the ducts, btdt and deflectors like the stock ones seem to just work better and less annoying crunching duct hose. The car underbody on the PP1 is designed to route air those deflector plates and it works. If you must, Vorshlag sells larger plates which fit well.

Cooling on the rear diff can be an issue, but usually with 75w140 oil swap and some heat wrap around the adjacent exhaust pipes which surround it, its fine so long as you have a reasonable time for it to cool between sessions. Engine heat shouldn’t be an issue at all.

Yes to good high temp brake fluid

Camber plates if you want to run wide tires (305/315), fit them under the fenders, and not waste the sidewalls.

Don’t overthink it before you go out and drive. You may not have as many issues as you think.
I keep reading about the PP1 and the PP2. There does not seem to be a choice on the 2022 model. The only option is a GT Performance package.

Thanks for the info on the rear diff. I'll swap that out and do the heat wrap. I'll leave the stock ducting in there for now and see how it holds up. I still am going to get a Mishimoto radiator and replace the stock one. Have read great things about it.

For sure going to rub some wider tires. These are what I'm looking at right now. Carroll Shelby Wheel Company Gloss Black 19" x 9.5" and 19" x 11" CS-5. Also get some BMR Camber plates to adjust for some negative Camber.

Going to see how this setup feels and then go from there. But I am open to suggestions!
 

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The mishi is not worth doing sine you already have the big rad. If you want another rad get one of the fancy ones steeda carries.
 
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Kennysum1

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NightmareMoon

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I keep reading about the PP1 and the PP2. There does not seem to be a choice on the 2022 model. The only option is a GT Performance package.

Thanks for the info on the rear diff. I'll swap that out and do the heat wrap. I'll leave the stock ducting in there for now and see how it holds up. I still am going to get a Mishimoto radiator and replace the stock one. Have read great things about it.

For sure going to rub some wider tires. These are what I'm looking at right now. Carroll Shelby Wheel Company Gloss Black 19" x 9.5" and 19" x 11" CS-5. Also get some BMR Camber plates to adjust for some negative Camber.

Going to see how this setup feels and then go from there. But I am open to suggestions!
I would caution you against a 9.5”/11” stagger. For the track that 9.5” front wheel is really going to limit you. The car is front heavy and needs a lot of front tire to get the front to grip and turn in well. Heck I wouldn’t even recommend a 10/11” stagger for track use.

11/11” square setups with like 305 tires on all four corners is where most people land for road course work.
 
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Kennysum1

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I would caution you against a 9.5”/11” stagger. For the track that 9.5” front wheel is really going to limit you. The car is front heavy and needs a lot of front tire to get the front to grip and turn in well. Heck I wouldn’t even recommend a 10/11” stagger for track use.

11/11” square setups with like 305 tires on all four corners is where most people land for road course work.

Gotcha. Makes sense honestly. I thought most road course cars were running square setups. But like I said I am much newer to the turning track world than the straight line one lol.

If I'm going to buy wheels and tires I may as well buy all of the supporting mods at the same time. Wondering what kind of clearance issues the 305s have in the front.

Not worried about the back nearly as much. I run 315s on my 18 drag car.
 

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NightmareMoon

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Gotcha. Makes sense honestly. I thought most road course cars were running square setups. But like I said I am much newer to the turning track world than the straight line one lol.

If I'm going to buy wheels and tires I may as well buy all of the supporting mods at the same time. Wondering what kind of clearance issues the 305s have in the front.

Not worried about the back nearly as much. I run 315s on my 18 drag car.
305 isn't too bad to fit on the front. You want a ~26 effective offset on an 11" wheel. The two main ways to do that are to get a dedicated front wheel with that offset (Apex sells good ones), or you can get any common 11" rear wheel with an ET in the 50-52 range, and combine that with ARP +1" extended length front studs and a 1" slip on spacer. bolt on spacers are a no-no. The 1" longer studs will work great with the 1"/25mm spacer and ET50 11" wheels, but you'll might need some kind open ended lug nut if you're also switching back to running street wheels in normal offsets. You'd also want camber plates and decent front camber.

There are threads on 11" square setup, its a pretty common thing. You can go as high as 315 on the front without modifying fenders, but the clearances get finicky and the common +1" studs and +1"/25mm spacers may not cut it.
 

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fwiw I just finished my 4th track day last weekend at Gingerman with a stock GT Convertible Premium with PP. I'm running my stock pads (yes getting thinner), did some heat wrap but nothing much else otherwise. I'm a Novice so I'm not driving 9/10ths or 10/10ths but having a swinging great time. If you spend thousands on "mods" before going you'll never know how good your GT is to start. Yes I'll change the tire/wheel setup for next season, bleed the brakes, change the oil and some other good things but waiting until you have all these other things isn't totally necessary to have a great day learning how to drive your Mustang!
 

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fwiw I just finished my 4th track day last weekend at Gingerman with a stock GT Convertible Premium with PP. I'm running my stock pads (yes getting thinner), did some heat wrap but nothing much else otherwise. I'm a Novice so I'm not driving 9/10ths or 10/10ths but having a swinging great time. If you spend thousands on "mods" before going you'll never know how good your GT is to start. Yes I'll change the tire/wheel setup for next season, bleed the brakes, change the oil and some other good things but waiting until you have all these other things isn't totally necessary to have a great day learning how to drive your Mustang!
That's true for many things in life! :like:
 

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and to continue with what gone_n_60 wrote:


2015 Ford Mustang GT, 3:05.2 - Lightning Lap 9

2018 Ford Mustang GT Performance Package Level 2, 2:53.8 – Lightning Lap 12 2018

2021 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 2:51.4 – Lightning Lap 2022 (Corvette Z51 went 2:49)

and: 2020 Ford Mustang EcoBoost HP, 3:04.4 Lightning Lap


No stop-the-hop; bushing kits; IRS braces; subframe connectors...

Until we can come close to these lap times *of stock Mustangs* we are better off spending our $$ on improving the driver than on go-fast parts. But it is not as much fun! ;)
 

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When you install camber plates, it might make sense to upgrade struts/springs/sway bars at the same time while everything is taken apart anyways. Other than that, if it's really your first event, you don't need much aside from flushing brake fluid and making sure you have fresh oil in the engine.
Having a good instructor is probably most important, read and follow the 1st day prep thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-track-day-prep-and-expectations.156490/. You'll need small stuff like torque wrench, compressor, good tire pressure gauge more than a mishi radiator 😁
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