ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[kenand1988]

Same pulley?

I may try both the 8.5 and the 105mm pulley but definitely the 105mm

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[Jackson1320]

The little hose on the stock pump has nothing to do with the Venturi. All that little hose does is pump fuel into the bucket so the fuel pump is always submerged in fuel even if the tank is low. The way the system pulls fuel over from the other side is just by siphon. The pump sits right on a one way valve and the suction from the pump starts a siphon after that it’s all gravity. If the siphon gets interrupted then the suction from the pump will start it all over again.

 

[kenand1988]

The little hose on the stock pump has nothing to do with the Venturi. All that little hose does is pump fuel into the bucket so the fuel pump is always submerged in fuel even if the tank is low. The way the system pulls fuel over from the other side is just by siphon. The pump sits right on a one way valve and the suction from the pump starts a siphon after that it’s all gravity. If the siphon gets interrupted then the suction from the pump will start it all over again.

I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Adding a t fitting and venturi line isn't going to do anything? Or you're just making a correction about what the venturi line does and does not do? Either way the car previously had a venturi line and would not run out of gas early. Now that I do not have that line I run out of gas early so it would seem to me that if I want to fix that issue I need to add a venturi line. Yes I understand it's filling the basket and not pulling fuel from the second half of the tank.

 

[Jackson1320]

I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Adding a t fitting and venturi line isn't going to do anything? Or you're just making a correction about what the venturi line does and does not do? Either way the car previously had a venturi line and would not run out of gas early. Now that I do not have that line I run out of gas early so it would seem to me that if I want to fix that issue I need to add a venturi line. Yes I understand it's filling the basket and not pulling fuel from the second half of the tank.

You are probably running out of fuel early because without the little hose keeping the bucket full the fuel level is very low and even on both sides of the tank. With the level being so low it’s very easy for the pump to use up the very little fuel in the bucket faster than it can fill. With the Venturi hose keeping the bucket full it also keeps fuel siphoning all the way to the bottom because the fuel on the pump side is lower because it’s taking that fuel and filling the bucket with it so the siphon continues pulling from the other side all the way to the bottom. Without the Venturi the first part of the system to run out of fuel is the bucket. Even though there’s still fuel in the tank. I’m not saying that adding a small line to keep the bucket full is a bad idea. In fact the opposite, i believe it will fix the problem of running out of fuel early. I was just making sure everyone understands how it works because Ford calling it Venturi is misleading

 

[kenand1988]

ill upload pics of my 535 install when I get the t fittings from amazon... still a few weeks away shipping to New Zealand.
Im surprised you hit over 800 whp on 47lb. Mine will be similar to your build, 535 pump BAP but 1500cc injectors.

I ordered a t fitting too. Please post pics of how you install it.

 

[josephstef]

I ordered a t fitting too. Please post pics of how you install it.

You may loose some pressure to the rails for the t fitting siphon line so will be interesting to see how much pressure you have after doing it

 

[TEXAS HEAT]

Hey @Brad1810r80 I have a quick question regarding the e30 fuel you're running If you don't mind sharing...? How much ignition advance are you able to run up top? Does it cap out at 22* or can you be more aggressive with it or are you targeting less advance?

Thanks,

Tim

 

[Jackson1320]

You may loose some pressure to the rails for the t fitting siphon line so will be interesting to see how much pressure you have after doing it

If you are still using the pressure regulator that is built in to the fuel pump module then you will not lose any pressure. Instead of the regulator opening up and diverting all the extra fuel back into the tank some will be used to fill the bucket but you will still have more fuel flow then you will need 99% of the time. Also even if you did lose a little fuel pressure it is worth it to keep your pump submerged

 

[johndnardi07]

What are you guys monitoring to keep an eye on your BAP and pump condition/performance? I’ll be using a BAP with the stock pump, have an nGauge, and would like some peace of mind that they’re both operating normally past the initial logging phase

I would consider using a DW400 pump instead so you are not having to worry about the BAP " overworking" the OEM pump. Peace of mind and all doing this and the DW400 fuel pump is relatively cheap. A BAP may even cost more depending on what one you do

 

[TEXAS HEAT]

Ah, didn't think of that!
I would expect the belt dust (if any) to be there initially but not after more than 2,000 miles of driving. It still builds up slightly over time after I clean it which is why I'm leaning towards the catch-can causing it.
I'll see if the breather sock clears it up and then can verify it was actually the catch-can's vented vapors.

Did the sock on the breather filter keep the dust/soot from getting all over? I've noticed mine has this same build up over time.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

Did the sock on the breather filter keep the dust/soot from getting all over? I've noticed mine has this same build up over time.

Yeap, the breather sock sorted out the dust/soot issue.
No more build up except regular dust through the grille

 

[TEXAS HEAT]

Yeap, the breather sock sorted out the dust/soot issue.
No more build up except regular dust through the grille

Good to know, I'm having the same issue. Do you have a link to where you purchased yours?

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

Good to know, I'm having the same issue. Do you have a link to where you purchased yours?

Allstar ALL36208 Breather Sock
Price has gone up a bit on Amazon. Was $11.50 when I purchased mine.
You can Google search to see if you find it cheaper but any breather sock of similar dimensions to that one will work fine

 

[Brad1810r80]

When I get home I'll look at the logs and let you know.

Hey @Brad1810r80 I have a quick question regarding the e30 fuel you're running If you don't mind sharing...? How much ignition advance are you able to run up top? Does it cap out at 22* or can you be more aggressive with it or are you targeting less advance?

Thanks,

Tim

 

[kenand1988]

While I wait for a dyno to tune the new added G3 I thought i'd share how my experience went getting the G2 upgraded and speaking with the owner of ESS tuning in America. I am really spoiled that I live within an hour of their shop. I reached out to Brevin and we set up a time to take care of the upgrade. For anyone not local I would assume you will need to send the whole unit and then they perform the switch and it is mailed back to you. For me it was about a 45 minute process. The G3 went back on the car in 15 minutes. Cost at the time of writing this was 1195 and they kept the old volute. Some differences to note the G3 inlet is 78mm while the G2 is 71mm (I think I got that right). The outlet is also bigger. To do this upgrade you will need to replace the air filter tube and the discharge tube to the intercooler from the headunit. The impeller geometry is also different but both are cast. The G3x has a billet impeller capable of higher RPM 75,000 i think. the G2 and G3 are suggested to stay below 55,000 I think. That being said they have never had an impeller fail so the actual breaking point of the cast impellers is unknown. One of the big reasons this supercharger is so great is because it gets into boost quick. There a lot of reasons why this is, the impeller geometry, the step up gear ratio, and the fact that the gearbox inside the headunit is very easy to spin meaning there is less friction to overcome. One part that truly spared no expense are the bearings for the impeller shaft. They are literally the best bearings that can be bought currently. They are entirely ceramic and have a theoretical life of 20,000 hours which, fun fact, is more than 2 years of running them 24/7. While I was there they actually showed me a torn down unit. The customer had recently gotten a G3 headunit and put it on their car. After 2 weeks they noticed the headunit making a noise that didn't sound right so they sent it in to ESS. ESS found there to be NO OIL in it and confirmed with the customer they had not put oil in the supercharger. The headunit ran for 2 weeks with no oil and when I was able to spin the shaft it still felt smooth. The bearings still looked perfect. The owner put it to me this way. They spared no expense whatsoever to develop this platform. It has been a 6 year process but the goal was to do it right the first time and then scale from there. Us lucky few who have already purchased our units got an upgrade without knowing it. The gearbox casings for the mass produced units will be high pressure cast aluminum instead of billet. This is mainly an aesthetic difference since both are more than capable as for as strength and durability goes. Some might even like the look of the cast aluminum better, they have a nice finish to them like the volutes. The internals of course are identical.

I also did want to mention ESS has tested all of the big name injectors and what they suggest for our builds is either LU47s, ID1050x or the new GT500 injectors which are 62 #. Part # for those is 0280158395.

I have dyno time scheduled for next Tuesday so I will give an update when that happens.

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