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30,000 Mile, No Catch Can Report

Cardude99

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FreePenguin

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I have 18k miles without catch can, but only a few k with FP tune, my catch can arrives Monday. Ford performance one, 200 bones. but its be worth it I guess.
 

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ihasnostang

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did first oil change at 3300, installed CC after 1700 miles. car sat all winter indoors being started every 2 weeks.
91606154_10158024241940140_3634454248462221312_o.jpg
 

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only start the car when its time to drive it, otherwise- toss fuel stabilizer in the tank, and put a battery charger/maintainer on it. more detrimental to start it to run, and turn off than just leaving it.
 

jdsfly

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This is NOT how our PCV system works. The intake manifold has a vacuum line on it that goes down to the crankcase, to draw blowby vapors in to the intake manifold. In that vacuum line there is a check valve, called the PCV valve. When the intake manifold is in a vacuum state, not under boost, it sucks crankcase vapors through the PCV valve, in to the intake manifold. When the intake manifold is in a boost state, the PCV valve is pushed closed, so that boosted air doesn't flow through the PCV valve and in to the crankcase. Also, the the valve cover has a line that goes to the intake air tube, just before the turbo. When our engine is making boost, blowby vapors will flow from the valve cover through this line to the intake air tube.
 

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jdsfly

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I installed an UPR CC on my car at 5k miles. The car now has 19k miles, and I recently emptied the CC when installing a bigger turbo. I would say there were 3-4 oz. of oil. However, now that the car is tuned for this turbo and has full motor bolt-ons, it gives me more confidence because I'm peaking at WOT at 25 or more lbs. boost. Also, a CC helps reduce crank case pressure and this can't hurt. However, I do agree with those that it probably isn't needed on a mildly modded or tuned car.
A catch can does nothing to reduce crankcase pressure. It It only catches some of the oil vapor present in blowby gases.
 

jdsfly

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Did an oil change this weekend, I don't know about the rest of you guys but I don't want this shit running through my intake...
IMG_0083_Moment.jpg
Ford designed, built, and installed the PCV system, on our cars, on purpose.
They purposely allow some oil vapor into the intake manifold, to lubricate the throttle valve shaft, intake valve stems, and cylinders.
 

ICU812

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I'd like to ask a few questions if I may.
1) every 10 k when you pull the intake are you taking a rag to the intake valves or just eyeballing them?
2) what does the top of the pistons look like?
Carbon build up there = hot spots and pre-ign and a bunch of other issues.

It is great to hear your service reports, Thanks for that.
But the guy that thinks a few runs up to 4500 rpm a month, and a guy that runs it upto red line most shifts will have different outcomes.
Higher rpm puts more oil in the crankcase vapors as the crank whips the oil.
 

jdsfly

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I'd like to ask a few questions if I may.
1) every 10 k when you pull the intake are you taking a rag to the intake valves or just eyeballing them?
2) what does the top of the pistons look like?
Carbon build up there = hot spots and pre-ign and a bunch of other issues.

It is great to hear your service reports, Thanks for that.
But the guy that thinks a few runs up to 4500 rpm a month, and a guy that runs it upto red line most shifts will have different outcomes.
Higher rpm puts more oil in the crankcase vapors as the crank whips the oil.
1. The carbon that accumulates on valves and piston tops can't be wiped off with a rag. It gets baked on. You need to use a solvent or abrasive media, to remove it. The photos, in this thread, of carbon on valves are no where near enough carbon to produce any noticable symptoms of a poorly running engine. Look at some photos of early 3.5 Ecoboost engines, before Ford solved the problem. They accumulated way more carbon.
2. Top Tier Gas and API SN+ and SP oils were specifically formulated to help mitigate carbon buildup and LSPI.
3. On modern engines, the crankshaft doesn't dip down into the oil as it rotates. Our engine is pressure lubed, so there is no need for that.
 

BlueHPP

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1. The carbon that accumulates on valves and piston tops can't be wiped off with a rag. It gets baked on. You need to use a solvent or abrasive media, to remove it. The photos, in this thread, of carbon on valves are no where near enough carbon to produce any noticable symptoms of a poorly running engine. Look at some photos of early 3.5 Ecoboost engines, before Ford solved the problem. They accumulated way more carbon.
2. Top Tier Gas and API SN+ and SP oils were specifically formulated to help mitigate carbon buildup and LSPI.
3. On modern engines, the crankshaft doesn't dip down into the oil as it rotates. Our engine is pressure lubed, so there is no need for that.
For #3 in freeway mode yes. In autocross on sticky tires there is a high probability of oil getting whipped around by the crankshaft. I see 1.2 lateral/braking Gs with Falkens. See Walt's post on the NĂĽrburgring Mustang. So for high performance (autocross/track) drivers a catch can is probably useful. Especially since burning oil lowers the octane rating, which will reduce your power.
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