Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

engineermike

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The killer chiller lowers iat2's about 30 degrees on average... I used to average 120-150 depending on temps.... now it's 90-120...
Good info. 30 deg MCT is worth 2-3 deg timing (if tuned for it) which in turn is worth 40-60 hp. You need the xdi hpfp next which allows another 2-3 deg…then start raising the boost…
 

hlfbkd420

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Where is the conflicting info from Roush?
7th is 1:1 but that is not a viable gear due to the speed limiter.
5th gear is the gear for A10 cars from Roush. maybe some better tires are needed to help out with that spin or strapping the car down different/positioning on the dyno.
They will tell you that they want it done it 5th... They have also had it done in 6th and 7th. May depend on the tech you talk to. Take it as you will. Tires were MP4's... DR's aren't recommended.
 

hlfbkd420

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The killer chiller lowers iat2's about 30 degrees on average... I used to average 120-150 depending on temps.... now it's 90-120...
Any issues with your KC so far? Do you DD it?
 
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Stymee

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The KC can leak, it hurts the AC temps too….In a warm state like Fl, I’d much rather keep my AC running as cold as it can and just use E85 for the engine performance.

Don’t get me wrong, the KC is a nice piece so I guess its up to each person to decide which is best for them.
 

JasinEdward

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Any issues with your KC so far? Do you DD it?
Yes.... I daily the car. The AC suffers a little, but not enough to break a sweat here in FL. When I first start it up and drive for up to an hour it is not even noticable. No difference at all. Once the car is up to temp and you shut it off, the intercooler must soak up all of the heat...lol. Cause when you start it up again, you can see iat2's are about 120-130 until you start moving... If I get caught at a stoplight immediately after I start it, it blows a little warm, but once I drive for about 5 minutes it's cool.

But in all honesty, in 50 degree weather I struggled to keep my iat2's at 126 at the dragstrip. I had to leave it running to avoid complete heatsoak.

Now, when my car is completely heatsoaked, I can lower the iat2's at idle by reving to 3000..... I rarely see temps at 126 at the END of my runs now.

To sum it up, my wife doesn't notice the difference in a/c.... I do, but I live with it cause it's not bad enough to complain about. I think with a Whipple or Odin you wouldn't have the same issues.... The heatsoak causes it. I'll report back when it gets into the 70's and see how it's working then.... I am seriously considering a Model S Plaid at the moment so who knows where I'll be in a year...lol
 

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The killer chiller lowers iat2's about 30 degrees on average... I used to average 120-150 depending on temps.... now it's 90-120...
This is encouraging since it means that the ROUSH tune probably won’t pull timing and hopefully reduce or eliminate the tip in hesitation and sluggish acceleration I’m experiencing in hot weather. When you say you’re averaging 90-120 IAT2s now but at what ambient temperatures?
 

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Good info. 30 deg MCT is worth 2-3 deg timing (if tuned for it) which in turn is worth 40-60 hp. You need the xdi hpfp next which allows another 2-3 deg…then start raising the boost…
Correct me if I’m wrong but a KC isn’t a power adder on the P2 ROUSH tune - it will only make more power available at any given ambient temperature since the P2 tune will advance timing down to 0F. If so, is it true that a KC equipped P2 would accelerate stronger at the same ambient temp than a non-KC car?
 

jhunt47

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Correct me if I’m wrong but a KC isn’t a power adder on the P2 ROUSH tune - it will only make more power available at any given ambient temperature since the P2 tune will advance timing down to 0F. If so, is it true that a KC equipped P2 would accelerate stronger at the same ambient temp than a non-KC car?
Correct only lets you take full advantage of the power you have. It will not derate power based of rising high iat2 temps the Roush kit is known for.
 

brucelinc

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Does anyone have quarter mile results both without and with KC in as near identical conditions as possible....same tune, track and conditions?
 

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Correct me if I’m wrong but a KC isn’t a power adder on the P2 ROUSH tune - it will only make more power available at any given ambient temperature since the P2 tune will advance timing down to 0F. If so, is it true that a KC equipped P2 would accelerate stronger at the same ambient temp than a non-KC car?
Correct. I think a small tune tweak would unlock even more, though, depending on how the knock advance/retard is functioning.
 

JasinEdward

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Does anyone have quarter mile results both without and with KC in as near identical conditions as possible....same tune, track and conditions?
I will closer to fall of this year..... it's just too hot right now. My problem was other guys were seeing traps of 135 to 138.... I was seeing 133 to 134. When starting at a 126 iat2, by the end of the run it's over 150 and pulling timing. I know I won't have that issue anymore. When it's 90 degrees outside I can get the iat2's close to 100 by doing a burnout.
 

Tsloop8324

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Hey guys, glad to see the thread is as strong as ever!

Having a reoccurring issue with my 18 phase 2. I keep getting the check fuel inlet and code P0455. I've cleaned the inlet with the funnel. And checked to make sure the lines were fastened tight. The dealer had the car after the initial code and ran a smoke test but said everything was fine. I have gotten the code several times since then. It seems to happen after heavy acceleration or while in sport mode.

The lines on the side of my blower don't match the roush install guide. It looks as the purge line and brake booster line are switched. Would this be causing my issue or are the lines ran the same on everyone else's?

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WOTPULLS

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Hey guys, glad to see the thread is as strong as ever!

Having a reoccurring issue with my 18 phase 2. I keep getting the check fuel inlet and code P0455. I've cleaned the inlet with the funnel. And checked to make sure the lines were fastened tight. The dealer had the car after the initial code and ran a smoke test but said everything was fine. I have gotten the code several times since then. It seems to happen after heavy acceleration or while in sport mode.

The lines on the side of my blower don't match the roush install guide. It looks as the purge line and brake booster line are switched. Would this be causing my issue or are the lines ran the same on everyone else's?

Screenshot_20210608-083444_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20210608-083411_Drive.jpg


Screenshot_20210608-083444_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20210608-083411_Drive.jpg
Is there anything in your gas cap filler? Like from preventing the capless "cap" from closing all the way or dirt in it? Or maybe thats what you meant by cleaned it with a funnel. Those lines can be swapped they both are pulling vaccum. But I would swap them around just so its cleaner looking. It does look like you are missing clamps though as well on all 3 of those lines..
 

Tsloop8324

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Is there anything in your gas cap filler? Like from preventing the capless "cap" from closing all the way or dirt in it? Or maybe thats what you meant by cleaned it with a funnel. Those lines can be swapped they both are pulling vaccum. But I would swap them around just so its cleaner looking. It does look like you are missing clamps though as well on all 3 of those lines..
The cap was clean and didn't have any debris or anything around the filler area. I did notice I was missing the clamps as well. I will add some clamps to them and switch them to the proper orientation. I would imagine if the clamps were causing the leak they would have seen that during the smoke test...

Possible theory. Since it only seems to happen after heavy throttle or sport mode maybe the movement of the engine combined with no clamps is providing enough flex in the hose for the leak?
 
 
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