Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

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honeybadger

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Wow. You're lucky.

Have a look at SPC. Unbreakable and adjustable. Not quite as trick, but they won't let you down.
Yep. Best place on track for that failure.

Do they make something adjustable? The website looks like they make an OEM-like replacement.

Wow, glad you're ok. Could have seen that going much worse.
For sure, T16-18 would have been catastrophic

Looks like a fatigue failure to me. The outer shiny areas have been cracked for a while with the cracks slowly propogating along and the inner rough area just failed suddenly on track.

Please check the other side. :like:

I was thinking about asking what the torque setting is but I see they are jam nuts and it's a little tougher to get those tightened to a specific torque. Is a crow foot wrench used to torque something like that?
I'll be removing both and checking them out for something that doesn't have threads. I'll post detailed pics when I pull them

Hopefully didn’t cause any other damage. Seems somewhat minor.

Like others already said you could have been at much higher speed during the failure.

Fix and keep racing.
Always bro!

Yikes! This track stuff looks dangerous! glad you are ok.
All is good. Stay off the kerbs and you won't stress parts like this as much :)

Don't let this deter you from participating. It's actually safer than driving on the highway and the part that broke was an aftermarket component. Although aftermarket, it could happen with OEM too.
I actually had the oem part slide inward on me once and it messed me up mid term. A lot less violent, but still not great.

Glad you're ok.

This is why I chose the BMR camber arms: they don't load threads in bending like FTBR, Steeda, UPR, etc.
I'll definitely check them out. I run BMR up front and have been happy
 
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On a another note,. This motor is INSANE. It's an unhinged, wailing V8 banshee. It's completely unreal how insane this thing sounds. Sounds like no other voodoo I've ever heard.

And the top end. Good god the top end. It just sings. It's so damn smooth up top I kept forgetting to shift at 7600. It was just so so so smooth. I know the dyno graph doesn't show it, but this motor feels noticeably better up top. I wonder if I had data logged a lap on the previous motor if we would have seen some deflection in the VCT because it didn't feel nearly this smooth. I truly feel this motor could sit above 6500 for hours and hours and be fine. It's that smooth and happy up there.

I didn't really miss VCT once I re-calibrated my shifts. You'll notice I'm in second at T11, T12, T15, and T20 now. Fortunately, the lockouts actually makes it easier to put power down because the curve ramps up. I never used to be able to use 2nd in those corners with any real benefit unless I was on slicks because it would break the rear loose. Overall, what a blast. I can't even imagine what it's going to be like with new slicks on it.



And just because it sounds so good -



Oh, and it shoots flames.
 
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Don't let this deter you from participating. It's actually safer than driving on the highway and the part that broke was an aftermarket component. Although aftermarket, it could happen with OEM too.
Thanks, I am going for my first track day this spring.... Hoping for a safe day.
,
cars lightning loses a tire.jpg
 

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That run was fast enough to take the pole at the last NASCAR race.
 
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That run was fast enough to take the pole at the last NASCAR race.
Ha. Those things can't turn or brake well. I can't wait for them to be here in May. Definitely going to that one!
 

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Sounds like a symphony of destruction coming down track. Great to see ya back out.
 

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Are you seeing any differences in laptimes?
 

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Audio, even though it sounds great, does that engine not as much justice as in-person, I’ll bet!!!

You’re still using the ARH longtubes and stainless non-muffled system, correct?
 
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Sounds like a symphony of destruction coming down track. Great to see ya back out.
Sounds like the song of my people--Ford engines revving past 8k :)

Are you seeing any differences in laptimes?
Hard to say. The tires are two years old, have 6 track days on them, and been in super cold temps. They're quite slippery. But some early telemetry says that I should be faster when the slicks go on. I am putting power down in 2nd MUCH better.

...quote of the month right there!
Just wait until the night event at COTA

Audio, even though it sounds great, does that engine not as much justice as in-person, I’ll bet!!!

You’re still using the ARH longtubes and stainless non-muffled system, correct?
Oh for sure. It's insane in person. And correct. ARH long system (catless mid pipes, xpipe, and resonators + headers). Still stock mufflers, but that might change soon for some bullet mufflers in a blown diffuser setup


I'm making plans to come out for that race
Nice. Keep me updated. Buddy and I will be there
 

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Yep. Best place on track for that failure.

Do they make something adjustable? The website looks like they make an OEM-like replacement.
SPC rear camber arms are massive forged aluminum pieces - clearly designed by someone who knew what track life was like - and they're widely adjustable. They use an eccentric adjustment so there are no weak points. I've got a set for my car, but I haven't installed them yet, so my car still has BMR rear upper arms on it. I'm planning to change to the SPC's at some point this year.

BTW, the SPC's come with a steel locking plate that locks the inner bolt in place. Much simpler than the BMR lockouts and very effective.

https://www.spcalignment.com/compon...ustang&year=2017 - 2017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Check out the install video to see how they work.

I'll definitely check them out. I run BMR up front and have been happy
The BMR rear arms don't have a threaded link like the ones from FTBR and Steeda and so on. It's a billet aluminum part with a double-threaded sleeve that does the adjustment. Overall, it's a lot stronger than the "turnbuckle" style adjusters, but in the end it still comes down to the strength of the threaded steel rod on the spherical rod-end.
 
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SPC rear camber arms are massive forged aluminum pieces - clearly designed by someone who knew what track life was like - and they're widely adjustable. They use an eccentric adjustment so there are no weak points. I've got a set for my car, but I haven't installed them yet, so my car still has BMR rear upper arms on it. I'm planning to change to the SPC's at some point this year.

BTW, the SPC's come with a steel locking plate that locks the inner bolt in place. Much simpler than the BMR lockouts and very effective.

https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=72370&region=USA&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2017 - 2017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Check out the install video to see how they work.


The BMR rear arms don't have a threaded link like the ones from FTBR and Steeda and so on. It's a billet aluminum part with a double-threaded sleeve that does the adjustment. Overall, it's a lot stronger than the "turnbuckle" style adjusters, but in the end it still comes down to the strength of the threaded steel rod on the spherical rod-end.
Nice looking part. I like the bolt design, though I'm a bit bummed to see the rubber bushings in that part. Right now, I'm leaning towards FTBR bearings inside some OEM arms
 

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Looks like a fatigue failure to me. The outer shiny areas have been cracked for a while with the cracks slowly propogating along and the inner rough area just failed suddenly on track.

Please check the other side. :like:

I was thinking about asking what the torque setting is but I see they are jam nuts and it's a little tougher to get those tightened to a specific torque. Is a crow foot wrench used to torque something like that?
Exactly. And because it's an oblong section, you can guess that it was flexing on that axis back and forth.

I had a wheel stud fail like that once.
 
 
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