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Deciding on an MGW Shifter

Iconicgt

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I think you may get varying opinions on which tranny oil and if necessary. The same thing for a 500-mile oil change. Hopefully, you will get to put some miles on it in the next 6 months, so you can feel the difference in the MGW shifter:)
Very true. Always curious as to others opinions and experiences though. I’d probably do what I already thought I’d do anyway. Haha
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Iconicgt

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I did the Calimer cocktail before putting the MGW in. Helped a tad when everything was warmed up but the MGW was the game changer. Nibble from 1-2 and 2-3 is gone and there is no doubt where you are at in the gate. Bit notchy when cold (and probably because I just put it in and it isn't 'broke in' yet per se) but after maybe 5-10 minutes it's a dream.

Also, absolutely no NVH increase compared to stock. Unit is rock solid but does not translate into the shifter; or anywhere else I've noticed.
Awesome. Going in for wheels,springs, h pipe and xspec. Definitely most excited for the xspec. I’m hoing to look into the calmer cocktail. I can see a better quality oil making a difference. The nibble is more pronounced when cold for sure.
 

Iconicgt

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And I’ll add to mgw customer service. They called me cause I orders a adapter I didn’t need. Also they let me change stick literally at last minute!
 

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How does the lower profile feel compared to normal profile handle just in regard to the lower handle length ?

I am ready to order but cannot decide between race-spec-low profile-handle and x-spec-normal-profile-handle.

Apparently it is not possible to quickly swap the x-spec and race spec. Just swapping the normal and low profile handle seems doable in minutes.
 

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Admittedly, despite the nibble, I drained the transmission fluid at 5k miles and it was super clean. Cocktail probably wasn't necessary but I figured it couldn't hurt. I'll try the synchro shift stuff the next go around; see if there's a noticeable change.

Yes - their customer service is top notch. I'm not usually the one to goad over a product but their shifter completely changed the driving experience for me. I'm a new member and half my post count is probably praising them.
 

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How does the lower profile feel compared to normal profile handle just in regard to the lower handle length ?

I am ready to order but cannot decide between race-spec-low profile-handle and x-spec-normal-profile-handle.

Apparently it is not possible to quickly swap the x-spec and race spec. Just swapping the normal and low profile handle seems doable in minutes.
I personally like the lower profile length on the race spec but it might be a bit much on the X-Spec. It's not too low but also not near as long as stock was. It's just right.
 
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gadgtfreek

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I've got an xspec worked into the pricing of my Roush Stage 2 supercharger install at Lebanon Ford (oil pump gear too). Just have to decide when I want to spend the money lol.
 

MD_

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How does the lower profile feel compared to normal profile handle just in regard to the lower handle length ?

I am ready to order but cannot decide between race-spec-low profile-handle and x-spec-normal-profile-handle.

Apparently it is not possible to quickly swap the x-spec and race spec. Just swapping the normal and low profile handle seems doable in minutes.
I picked up the Xspec standard and I liked the stock looking shifter knob so with the adaptor and using the stock knob it's a hair lower (1/4 inch at most?) than factory. Comfortable when driving normal or shifting quick. I can see it sitting a hair above factory if you went with a larger after market knob.

Edit: When I called them they said the Xspec, low-profile version was noticeably shorter than OEM. The race, low profile was pretty close to OEM height as well.
 
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m3incorp

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That is how I am about most things also. Typically do what I was thinking of doing in the first place :)

Very true. Always curious as to others opinions and experiences though. I’d probably do what I already thought I’d do anyway. Haha
 

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I swapped in my MGW x spec flat stick a few thousand miles ago. I did not change fluid, no need to IMO. I had a few nibbles when cold going into 3rd especially. After the shifter those are all gone. It’s been a great experience after the install, which sucked.
 

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I’ve read on here about changing oil to bg syncro helps clean up shift feel.
The reviews are great with this fluid on pre-D4 MT82 trannies. But on D4s, all of the 10 or so folks who have done it reported no improvements, except 1 who said it helped a little. That's why I was thinking to either use the OEM DCT fluid, or DCT-F fluid, which is basically the same kind of fluid (BG is gear oil, I believe). I just want to remove all the assembly and break-in crap from there, when I do the 2nd oil change at the 6K-mile mark (4.5K now). My only 'issue' is notchy 1-2 shifts, and 'nibbly' 2-3 ones when cold, but that's pretty much normal for any manual tranny.

I picked up the Xspec standard and I liked the stock looking shifter knob so with the adaptor, and using the stock knob it's a hair lower (1/4 inch at most?) than factory. Comfortable when driving normal or shifting quick.
Hey, can you describe exactly what difference you feel when shifting sedately? I really like how my stock Bullitt feels once fully warmed up, which is better than the Tremec trannies I've owned in the past (T56, TR6060), probably due to those having internal gates. The main issue with the MT82s is when they're shifted quickly (which I don't do), and I suspect that's a clutch issue, and not a tranny one, but who knows. The real MT82 issue was weak fork welds, but I think it was fully resolved in 2019. Oh, and did you notice any extra NVH? Somebody said he didn't, which I find hard to believe, so let's see what you say :). Thanks.
 

Elp_jc

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I swapped in my MGW x spec flat stick a few thousand miles ago. After the shifter those are all gone. It’s been a great experience after the install, which sucked.
Forgot to ask if you could make the X-spec MGW look like stock on my Bullitt, meaning being able to use the stock knob (which I like a lot), and it having about the same height (I wouldn't mind a bit shorter, but not taller). Curious about that.
Hey, I'd have to install it myself too. Can you please describe how you did it, and why it 'sucked'? Oh, and can you also comment if your shifter added any extra NVH, please? I don't want any, and find hard to believe it doesn't, so want to hear from several before assuming it doesn't add any :). Thanks man.
 

CorvZ061

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Forgot to ask if you could make the X-spec MGW look like stock on my Bullitt, meaning being able to use the stock knob (which I like a lot), and it having about the same height (I wouldn't mind a bit shorter, but not taller). Curious about that.
Hey, I'd have to install it myself too. Can you please describe how you did it, and why it 'sucked'? Oh, and can you also comment if your shifter added any extra NVH, please? I don't want any, and find hard to believe it doesn't, so want to hear from several before assuming it doesn't add any :). Thanks man.
You can get the x-spec without the flat stick, so it’ll look fairly stock, they also have a knob adapter to reuse the stock knob. if you want it to look completely stick Barton has similar quality and is regarded just as well as MGW except it retains the stock lift ring reverse lock out unlike mgw, which is a push down style lockout.

As for the install it’s a pain in the but, you can do it without dropping the exhaust and driveshaft, but yourself a favor and do it. It’ll save you some headache, but mainly it sucks because of the tight quarters on the top of the trans.

Also to respond to your talk about the mt-82 shifting fast, it’s definitely is the stock shifter. Stock the shifter it mounted to the body in the rear, mgw mounts to the trans. That means as the engine and trans torque over the shifter moves with it so the linkage stays in line correctly.
 

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I really want to get an MGW but it is a mess trying to understand the variables that affect overall height of the shifter. You have Race and X spec, you have standard and low pro handle length, and then you have the “accessories” that determine overall height. You can get a standard or a low pro handle and still end up with the same overall length shifter. See video:



The mix of the rubber boot grommet, the collar, and the knob are where the magic happens outside of your Race vs X Spec choice. I see a selection for a stock collar to retain the factory look with the push down reverse on their site but no other low pro collar options. Does anyone know the magic combo to get the end result in the pic below? I want this height with a GT350 knob. My guess is that the GT350 knob would slightly increase overall height over the ball in the pic and I think that would be perfect for me. I appreciate anyone sharing their experience.

D20EDBE9-4EEE-4EEB-9813-4FA2823A43B8.jpeg
 

MD_

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The reviews are great with this fluid on pre-D4 MT82 trannies. But on D4s, all of the 10 or so folks who have done it reported no improvements, except 1 who said it helped a little. That's why I was thinking to either use the OEM DCT fluid, or DCT-F fluid, which is basically the same kind of fluid (BG is gear oil, I believe). I just want to remove all the assembly and break-in crap from there, when I do the 2nd oil change at the 6K-mile mark (4.5K now). My only 'issue' is notchy 1-2 shifts, and 'nibbly' 2-3 ones when cold, but that's pretty much normal for any manual tranny.


Hey, can you describe exactly what difference you feel when shifting sedately? I really like how my stock Bullitt feels once fully warmed up, which is better than the Tremec trannies I've owned in the past (T56, TR6060), probably due to those having internal gates. The main issue with the MT82s is when they're shifted quickly (which I don't do), and I suspect that's a clutch issue, and not a tranny one, but who knows. The real MT82 issue was weak fork welds, but I think it was fully resolved in 2019. Oh, and did you notice any extra NVH? Somebody said he didn't, which I find hard to believe, so let's see what you say :). Thanks.
Sure - before when going into gear, it felt as though the clutch wasn't fully depressed and you could feel things lining up before letting you into gear. Shifting 'normally' is smoot as butter; goes right into gear without that "lining up" feeling. Comparing it to the stock linkage tells you all you need to know. The OEM linkage is four swiveling pieces that pivot to line things up for the chassis mounted OEM shifter The MGW bolts right to the transmission and the new linkage is a solid single piece.

I have not experienced any increase in NVH; if there is any, I'd have to really look for it. It's not like when I did upgraded bushings on my WRX and the shifter would vibrate. The MGW doesn't do any of that. It's firm but it doesn't transfer into the shifter at all.
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