Time for a new clutch... 2015 PP1 GT

[SilverStallion]

Clutch pedal is starting to get hard and sticking to the floor when at times. She has 44k miles and believe its the original clutch. I have basic bolt ons. Need some advice on which clutch to go with and if its even worth getting a flywheel since im there. Exedy its what ive used on all my cars but they are all Japanese cars.

Sponsored

 

[cop on my back]

I went with Excedy Mach 500 with no issues at all. McLeod RST was nothing but problems for me.
I also got a lightened billet steel flywheel, I recommend that.

 

[CorvZ061]

Before you go through the trouble of condemning the clutch, does it slip at all? If the only thing you’re going by is a slightly harder pedal and the pedal sticking occasionally I’d change the fluid first.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah I have the same issue and would be curious how to fix it. Is it just a matter of bleeding the fluid? Anyone have the procedure for that?

Occasionally clutch pedal is a bit lower to the floor and won't fully disengage the clutch unless I just lift it with my foot, also the clutch pedal is stiffer than a newer GT my friend has (despite the fact his car has no pedal spring and I have a steeda spring).

My car doesn't slip at all so guessing the friction surfaces are fine.

 

[CorvZ061]

Yeah I have the same issue and would be curious how to fix it. Is it just a matter of bleeding the fluid? Anyone have the procedure for that?

Occasionally clutch pedal is a bit lower to the floor and won't fully disengage the clutch unless I just lift it with my foot, also the clutch pedal is stiffer than a newer GT my friend has (despite the fact his car has no pedal spring and I have a steeda spring).

My car doesn't slip at all so guessing the friction surfaces are fine.

the clutch and brakes share a reservoir. I’d recommend bleeding the brakes as well, but the gist of it is use a turkey baster or something like that to suck out the fluid from the reservoir and refill with new fluid. Cycle the clutch pedal several times and then bleed the clutch, and then the brakes. Suck out the fluid and refill with new dot4 LV from the dealership if you prefer that. To finish off the correct way you’ll want to get the abs active, you can either brake hard and get the abs on 3-4 times or if you have access to a scan tool that can enable the self test of the pump then do that.

 

[NightmareMoon]

the clutch and brakes share a reservoir. I’d recommend bleeding the brakes as well, but the gist of it is use a turkey baster or something like that to suck out the fluid from the reservoir and refill with new fluid. Cycle the clutch pedal several times and then bleed the clutch, and then the brakes. Suck out the fluid and refill with new dot4 LV from the dealership if you prefer that. To finish off the correct way you’ll want to get the abs active, you can either brake hard and get the abs on 3-4 times or if you have access to a scan tool that can enable the self test of the pump then do that.

I've done the brakes a bunch of times, and have even done the ABS bleed procedure myself.

I guess I just need to find the bleed nipple for the clutch.

 

[CorvZ061]

I've done the brakes a bunch of times, and have even done the ABS bleed procedure myself.

I guess I just need to find the bleed nipple for the clutch.

if it doesn’t help you may be looking at a slave cylinder or something. But bleeding is cheaper and easier than a clutch. I’d definitely at least try it first.

 

[cop on my back]

There is no bleed nipple for the clutch slave cylinder. You bleed by pumping 50-100 or more times.

 

[SilverStallion]

I went with Excedy Mach 500 with no issues at all. McLeod RST was nothing but problems for me.
I also got a lightened billet steel flywheel, I recommend that.

Ive read issues with clearance and center plate coning causing issues on the RST. Glad to hear that Exedy has been issue free. Does the lightened flywheel drop rpm really quick ? i dont try to quick shift to often cause of the nightmares ive seen on shift forks.
Also noticeable difference on acceleration?

Before you go through the trouble of condemning the clutch, does it slip at all? If the only thing you’re going by is a slightly harder pedal and the pedal sticking occasionally I’d change the fluid first.

Nope no slipping. I have noticed a harder pedal since i got the car. sticks to the floor when driving her hard and a super stiff pedal on long highway driving. im thinking bad slave or tired pressure plate. Thought i had 44k miles but have 41k. thats a good run for a clutch IMO

I did do a brake flush when i first got the car at 25k less then 2 years ago. I will try that again for sure.

the clutch and brakes share a reservoir. I’d recommend bleeding the brakes as well, but the gist of it is use a turkey baster or something like that to suck out the fluid from the reservoir and refill with new fluid. Cycle the clutch pedal several times and then bleed the clutch, and then the brakes. Suck out the fluid and refill with new dot4 LV from the dealership if you prefer that. To finish off the correct way you’ll want to get the abs active, you can either brake hard and get the abs on 3-4 times or if you have access to a scan tool that can enable the self test of the pump then do that.

Never tried the ABS i do have forscan. ill give that a shot

 

[cop on my back]

I had 2 McLeod RST clutches and yes, both got coning on center plate after a track day. I went with the Excedy single disc and zero issues after several track days. Yes, the lightened flywheel is great for RPM response. My Fiance has a 2014 Mustang GT bone stock and the engine lugs with the factory flywheel IMO. I miss the light pedal feel of the RST, but other than that, it was no good for me.

 

[thelostotter]

The Exedy Mach 500 with the lightened steel flywheel is working great for me. I’ve only got about 2k miles and 2 track days on it but it’s quiet and has good manners.

 

[Stang55]

Clutch has a lifespan of 100-200k miles. At that mileage it is pre-mature wear or you are riding your clutch like no tomorrow. OEM clutch+flywheel is 600 bucks, and will be the smoothest bet (remember with Dual Mass Flywheels you cannot resurface). You can go aftermarket but you will have to try for yourself as everybody has a different preference. Only advantage with the single mass flywheels is if you change the clutch you can resurface it instead of replacing it.

 

[Kong76]

OEM single disc for 15-17s are made in Turkey. It's garbage.

 

[cop on my back]

I was just going to say. There is no way in hell a grandma driving could get 100-200k on one of these clutches. Stang 55, sorry but you have no clue. These do not wear out from slipping, they blow appart from centrifugal force during a high RPM shift. I have watched these 2015+ clutch threads on failures and they are almost all due to that.

Who drives a stick and slips the clutch all day long, come on.....

 

[Stang55]

I was just going to say. There is no way in hell a grandma driving could get 100-200k on one of these clutches. Stang 55, sorry but you have no clue. These do not wear out from slipping, they blow appart from centrifugal force during a high RPM shift. I have watched these 2015+ clutch threads on failures and they are almost all due to that.

Who drives a stick and slips the clutch all day long, come on.....

I’ve never had a clutch blow apart, but usually when a failure is to occur you just go with a single mass flywheel they don’t have springs that heat up and fail, which is why it’s recommended to ditch the dual mass when upgrading the clutch

Sponsored