BMR Suspension's New S550 Rear Upper SHOCK MOUNTS: SM760 - Design Finalized!

[2015DIBGT]

Been working on a design that is pretty similar to RideTech's upper rear mount for their true coilover conversion. Instead of only bolting the play into position my goal is to weld this new plate (shown in the image with red scribbles) in position.

The biggest issue for me specifically is being able to transfer the fix from the passenger side (unphased by the issue) to the driverside (with pulled out nuts).

I've gone through a couple different design iterations at this point already but I should be getting something squared away as a permanent fix this weekend. Most likely overkill but definitely don't want to run into this issue again.

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[shogun32]

I wonder if it wouldn't be better to just cut straight back thru the dual 'hump' and remove it. Then attach a box-section (or C) to the flat sheet underneath. It wouldn't be as simple as a single piece of sheet like you're using.

side-view

 ________
X|      |
X|      |
X|   bolt hole for mount, nut goes behind this out-facing surface
X|      |
X|      |
       /
      /
     /
    /
   /
  /
X|
X|
secondary anchor hole for nut-sert just like Ridetech
X|
X|

The thin lines are your bracket. the 'X' is the flat sheetmetal the 'hump' section was molded from. You would weld the entire length of 'X|' seams.

 

[2015DIBGT]

I wonder if it wouldn't be better to just cut straight back thru the dual 'hump' and remove it. Then attach a box-section (or C) to the flat sheet underneath. It wouldn't be as simple as a single piece of sheet like you're using.

side-view

 ________
X|      |
X|      |
X|   bolt hole for mount, nut goes behind this out-facing surface
X|      |
X|      |
       /
      /
     /
    /
   /
  /
X|
X|
secondary anchor hole for nut-sert just like Ridetech
X|
X|

The thin lines are your bracket. the 'X' is the flat sheetmetal the 'hump' section was molded from. You would weld the entire length of 'X|' seams.

While I agree that would be much simpler, I’m thinking from a standpoint where “someone” who had this issue could just bolt up the plate in the location and weld.

Originally I had thought the same. Just cut it all away and weld a section where the humps were. Two things, where you have your section shown, where “X|” and “|” are, they are not parallel. Also, your Upper “X|” and Lower “X|” are 3° different.

The bolts that go into the body are also not straight. They go in at separate angles. Although, that could be a viable option, using a stock mount or a Steeda Mount, the mount doesn’t bolt flat against the body either. It requires the space between the humps; that was one of my biggest struggles getting a piece to fit - the “U” shape in my design didn’t fit correctly until the third revision.

 

[Grimreaper]

Using the locating studs was in the CAD but didn't make it to the actual, wouldn't those be useful to help locate the whole plate/ bottom bolt holes?which should make welding over torn out holes straight forward.

 

[2015DIBGT]

Using the locating studs was in the CAD but didn't make it to the actual, wouldn't those be useful to help locate the whole plate/ bottom bolt holes?which should make welding over torn out holes straight forward.

100% correct. The actual photos were of the first prototype that I created. The CAD that is shown is actually Rev 3. Before diving right into the “production-ready” version I wanted to check the other stuff right off.

Rev 3 stuff will get tested tomorrow/Saturday. Also not shown; I’m using a machined puck on the back side of the plate where others may choose to just use a nut that’s welded better than the factory ones.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I wonder if it wouldn't be better to just cut straight back thru the dual 'hump' and remove it. Then attach a box-section (or C) to the flat sheet underneath. It wouldn't be as simple as a single piece of sheet like you're using.

side-view

 ________
X|      |
X|      |
X|   bolt hole for mount, nut goes behind this out-facing surface
X|      |
X|      |
       /
      /
     /
    /
   /
  /
X|
X|
secondary anchor hole for nut-sert just like Ridetech
X|
X|

The thin lines are your bracket. the 'X' is the flat sheetmetal the 'hump' section was molded from. You would weld the entire length of 'X|' seams.

The hump section adds considerable stiffness over a flat panel...

 

[shogun32]

The hump section adds considerable stiffness over a flat panel...

sure, except a big chunk of his are ripped apart. And the hump material is already stressed from forming and since it's not 'flat', doesn't provide a lot of linear area for welding seams.

For retrofit into a car whose sheet metal is still intact I would probably shape it like a 'Y' (like a sling shot) with pads that generally followed the humps' curves and weld the entire circumference.

 

[jperls]

Hi everyone,

So I just ordered a set of these through American Muscle (no idea which generation 1, 2, or 3), but after reading this thread...I am now very worried and am wondering if I should cancel my order.

The reason for the order is one of my steeda shock mounts keeps making noise...bearing has loosened up and its just very annoying.

Here is the setup in the rear:

1. Koni adjustable yellow shocks
2. BMR SP080 springs
3. Steeda shock mounts

Note: due to BMR springs, car is lowered .5 inches in the rear.

My concerns are the following:

1. Due to only being lowered ½ an inch, will the extra 1/4in of shock travel GAINED from these put me at risk of screwing everything up

2. Will I have to take everything apart to adjust my shocks if I so desired?

Thanks

 

[GT 550]

Just a suggestion but rather than lay out for another set maybe go back to Steeda and see what they can do. Problems with early units are well documented as is Steeda's excellent customer service.

 

[jperls]

Just a suggestion but rather than lay out for another set maybe go back to Steeda and see what they can do. Problems with early units are well documented as is Steeda's excellent customer service.

Think I might give that a try...found my receipt from late model restoration when I got them back in October 2017. @SteedaTech would you be willing to let me know what needs to be done for a warranty claim?

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Hi everyone,

So I just ordered a set of these through American Muscle (no idea which generation 1, 2, or 3), but after reading this thread...I am now very worried and am wondering if I should cancel my order.

The reason for the order is one of my steeda shock mounts keeps making noise...bearing has loosened up and its just very annoying.

Here is the setup in the rear:

1. Koni adjustable yellow shocks
2. BMR SP080 springs
3. Steeda shock mounts

Note: due to BMR springs, car is lowered .5 inches in the rear.

My concerns are the following:

1. Due to only being lowered ½ an inch, will the extra 1/4in of shock travel GAINED from these put me at risk of screwing everything up

2. Will I have to take everything apart to adjust my shocks if I so desired?

Thanks

You can't use these with Konis (pretty sure it says that). I'd get the J&M mount.

 

[tj@steeda]

Think I might give that a try...found my receipt from late model restoration when I got them back in October 2017. @SteedaTech would you be willing to let me know what needs to be done for a warranty claim?

please send me your contact info to tim@steeda along with your order number.

TJ

 

[jperls]

please send me your contact info to tim@steeda along with your order number.

TJ

Already got a message from Mike and will be sending him a copy of the lmr.com receipt. THank you all so much for standing behind your product. Really makes me feel great

 

[tevaburns]

Looks like BMR has redesigned this SM760 part again.

 

[tevaburns]

AND...... looks like this new part is imminent (rear strut brace BMR STB762) goes with the new mounts:

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