Switching from 5W-20 to 5W-30. Best Oil?

[ponie1992]

Undisclosed testing method and only one lubrication regime, plus no consideration for a myriad of other critical oil properties.

Basically any liquid with a boundary layer lubrication additive could perform well in his test without indicating how well the oil would serve you in an engine.

Looks like the main concern is wear protection, which is the main job of oil. He states that is the main objective of his blog, to show which oils provide the best wear protection. I get what you're saying, but it looks legit to me.

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[Brian@BMVK]

Looks like the main concern is wear protection, which is the main job of oil. He states that is the main objective of his blog, to show which oils provide the best wear protection. I get what you're saying, but it looks legit to me.

The testing method does not:
- represent the fluid as a film at pressure (30-100 psi, depending on engine speed)
- rate NOACK volatility, new/used TBN, viscosity index
- evaluate cold flowability and viscosity at different temperatures (which varies a good amount even within a weight rating)

 

[engineermike]

Looks like the main concern is wear protection, which is the main job of oil. He states that is the main objective of his blog, to show which oils provide the best wear protection. I get what you're saying, but it looks legit to me.

I was sold as well the first time I found it. But then I learned more. Again, he is only looking at boundary layer lubrications. All of them caused wear. If your oil managed to keep you in the hydrodynamic or even the elastohydrodynamic regime, the testing would be completely moot. By the time you reach borderline, much of the oil’s functionality has failed. I’d rather prevent as much metal on metal as possible than deal with it after it happens.

Furthermore, his work is not peer reviewed or transparent, which is technical writing 101. I’ve read enough peer reviewed papers to know his is bunk.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Of course it fits. In other markets that's the standard cap. It's only in the US where they want you to use 5W20.

People here keep saying that, but what are those other markets? Here in Spain its 5w-20, and I'm guessing that means it's 5w-20 in the rest of Europe too. What are these other markets? Australia? Africa? Asia?

 

[Ebm]

I've been running [M1] 0W-30 for the last 40k miles in my Coyote and I haven't had a single problem. It doesn't burn or leak a drop of oil.

Honestly, you could put a variety of different oil weights in the Coyote and you won't have a problem.

0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50

 

[jwt]

If you're running the engine hard when the cold viscosity rating comes into play, you're doing it very, very wrong.

0W40 is a great option for a tracked car that is street driven still but needs more high rpm and high temp protection, and has been recommended by BillyJ as well. I'm so far quite impressed with its performance (M1 0w40).

For those of us in the great white north where starting your car in -40f/c is not uncommon I am leaning towards 0w-20. With a block heater. But given that I have put 2000km on the last synthetic oil change given covid, seems a shame to drain the 0W-30? Torn tbh

EDIT and no I don't mean starting it and giving it loads before up to temp. Just your normal start, idle while getting settled and moderate driving out of the housing estate onto interior city arterial roads, stop go traffic etc etc

 

[ponie1992]

I was sold as well the first time I found it. But then I learned more. Again, he is only looking at boundary layer lubrications. All of them caused wear. If your oil managed to keep you in the hydrodynamic or even the elastohydrodynamic regime, the testing would be completely moot. By the time you reach borderline, much of the oil’s functionality has failed. I’d rather prevent as much metal on metal as possible than deal with it after it happens.

Furthermore, his work is not peer reviewed or transparent, which is technical writing 101. I’ve read enough peer reviewed papers to know his is bunk.

I don't claim to know much about oil at all, but it seems you've done your research. Hopefully, the oil I chose to go with is quality and protects my engine well.

 

[Dapepper9]

I don't claim to know much about oil at all, but it seems you've done your research. Hopefully, the oil I chose to go with is quality and protects my engine well.

Yeah that blog is bogus. The previously outlined reasons are great examples, especially with the "peer reviewed" and "transparent" things. For somebody who claims to be a mechanical engineer and hold multiple patents, such things should be pretty basic but instead he uses a lot of jargon and insists on taking him at his word based on a complete lack of data. The data provided gives no background on how it was derived or processed.

Myself, I tend to like Royal Purple HPS, Schaeffer's 9000, Redline and Amsoil Sig Series for my fill. Currently I'm running the Schaeffer's 9000 0w40. I would've gone with RP HPS 5w30 but I have to order it and I can get the Schaeffer's locally for cheaper. All 4 of these brands/product lines, from the UOAs I've seen, TEND to have the lowest wear metals and greatest tbn/viscosity retention. I like to pair them with Schaeffer's Moly EP or and/or Archoil. My last 5.0 seemed really happy with that setup per audible sounds and UOAs. Generally run 5k if running e85 regularly and by then the TBN is getting really low. Regular fuel I don't have a problem running it out to 6-6500.

That's all my opinion/experience though. Yours may differ and I offer zero recommendations.

 

[engineermike]

I don't claim to know much about oil at all, but it seems you've done your research. Hopefully, the oil I chose to go with is quality and protects my engine well.

QSUD is a solid choice.

 

[K4fxd]

I got sold on Liqua-moly brand when I used 10w-60 in my harley. At 5000 miles I sent in a sample to blackstone and they said I had 5000 miles left on the oil.

So in the bike I changed at 7500 always sending in a sample, Air cooled, don't want to FU.

It always came back with thousands of more miles left and wear was normal or below.

I use Liqua Moly 2041 fully syn 5w-40

What I like about the euro spec oils is they are 100% true synthetic if labeled as such. Not so here in the States.

 

[Ebm]

For those of us in the great white north where starting your car in -40f/c is not uncommon I am leaning towards 0w-20. With a block heater. But given that I have put 2000km on the last synthetic oil change given covid, seems a shame to drain the 0W-30? Torn tbh

EDIT and no I don't mean starting it and giving it loads before up to temp. Just your normal start, idle while getting settled and moderate driving out of the housing estate onto interior city arterial roads, stop go traffic etc etc

You will be fine with 0W-30. No need to change early, no need to change from 0W-30 at all unless you want to. That 0W-30 offers great protection in any temp range you will see.

 

[ponie1992]

QSUD is a solid choice.

Good deal

 

[ponie1992]

Yeah that blog is bogus. The previously outlined reasons are great examples, especially with the "peer reviewed" and "transparent" things. For somebody who claims to be a mechanical engineer and hold multiple patents, such things should be pretty basic but instead he uses a lot of jargon and insists on taking him at his word based on a complete lack of data. The data provided gives no background on how it was derived or processed.

Myself, I tend to like Royal Purple HPS, Schaeffer's 9000, Redline and Amsoil Sig Series for my fill. Currently I'm running the Schaeffer's 9000 0w40. I would've gone with RP HPS 5w30 but I have to order it and I can get the Schaeffer's locally for cheaper. All 4 of these brands/product lines, from the UOAs I've seen, TEND to have the lowest wear metals and greatest tbn/viscosity retention. I like to pair them with Schaeffer's Moly EP or and/or Archoil. My last 5.0 seemed really happy with that setup per audible sounds and UOAs. Generally run 5k if running e85 regularly and by then the TBN is getting really low. Regular fuel I don't have a problem running it out to 6-6500.

That's all my opinion/experience though. Yours may differ and I offer zero recommendations.

Right on man

 

[jwt]

You will be fine with 0W-30. No need to change early, no need to change from 0W-30 at all unless you want to. That 0W-30 offers great protection in any temp range you will see.

My bad I meant switching from 5w-20 to 0w-20, brain fart on my end

 

[Dapepper9]

What I like about the euro spec oils is they are 100% true synthetic if labeled as such. Not so here in the States.

Depends how picky you want to be about the definition of "synthetic" lol. Group III hydrocracked are refined mineral stocks and typically labeled as synthetic. Well, Group IV oils or PAOs are typically the result of further refining Group III stocks to produce ethylene gas which is what the majority of PAO compounds are derived from. So in a round-about way Group IV PAOs are quite often not a "true synthetic" as many claim about Group III lol.

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