Switching from 5W-20 to 5W-30. Best Oil?

[OnThree]

Yes Sir. Let em use their zero w whatever. Then the make thread about oil consumption problems and a bunch of other shit. Cheers.

You really have no clue, if you start burning that much oil because you switched from 5w to 0w then you have much bigger problems than the oil viscosity.

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[OnThree]

What moron runs a cold motor ??

Never heard of BillyJ must be famous, nor does it matter.

You missed his point entirely

 

[WildHorse]

What moron runs a cold motor ??

The ones that sick zero weight in it haha.

 

[OnThree]

The ones that sick zero weight in it haha.

Must suck to be this retarded

 

[WildHorse]

You really have no clue

Think what you want guy. That engine is spec'd ata 5 cold 'weight'. That said, run whatever you want.

 

[WildHorse]

Must suck to be this retarded

Wow. Insults now. Come.. I clap slowly for you.

 

[OnThree]

Wow. Insults now. Come.. I clap slowly for you.

Says the guy insulting people while talking out his ass

The ones that sick zero weight in it haha.

 

[WildHorse]

Says the guy insulting people while talking out his ass

 

[OnThree]

Hey man, good on you, at you least you own it

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Anyone who knows anything about oil knows that the individual properties of the specific oil matter more than the weight rating on face value. There's a very broad range of performance within full synthetic oils that are rated 5W30, for instance. Find the one that has the right combination of low and high temp kinematic viscosity, HTHS, cold flow and NOACK volatility for the application. Ford's use of the Motorcraft 5W50 in the GT350 and Gen 1 w/ track pack, for instance, is very interesting as it has demonstrated low shear resistance and thus becomes equivalent to a 5W40 quickly. A thicker/high HTHS 5W30 will provide similar protection, as will a 0W or 5W40.

 

[Cobrakit]

I had a free oil change and had dealer install 5w30 (since approved in owners manual), no problem. Also i get my motorcraft synthetic blend either 5w20 or 5w30 at Walmart for <$20 for 5 quart container. And i change every 5,000 mikes. Not recommending any oil for others, just providing info.

 

[ice445]

I run the finest 5w20 blend of peanut oil. My car always smells great.

 

[Elp_jc]

Never, ever go thinner than the first number of what the manufacturer suggests. In this case, '5'. All manufacturers agree with that.

On the contrary. All manufacturers are switching to 0/xx oils now; there's really no drawback, especially if you don't push the envelope with OCIs.

A lower cold viscosity just means it'll flow better at low temperatures, but the bigger gap between cold and hot ratings means more viscosity modifiers which often means less viscosity stability.

Exactly. But since we're not talking 5/50 here, and changing oil at 10K miles, there's really no drawback. I do 5K OCIs, so zero issues at that mileage with M1 (group-III) in 0/30. By the way, M1 0/30 is considered a 'thin' oil, meaning is almost in 20 range, so it's not a big departure from 5/20. And same when cold, but the quicker lubrication when cold, the better, and that goes at any temperature, since even when it's 100-deg in your garage, the oil is still too thick for proper lubrication.

As a final comment, the difference among 0/20, 5/20, 0/30 and 5/30 is really minor, so it's not even worth getting into arguments . It basically falls into the preference category. But with the EPA involved in that, I just don't take the manufacturer's word, because they save a ton of money in EPA points by specifying thinner oils on high volume vehicles, with the fraction of 1% savings in fuel economy. I use what I think it's best for my engines .

 

[Dfeeds]

Think what you want guy. That engine is spec'd ata 5 cold 'weight'. That said, run whatever you want.

Okay I think things are getting a bit off base here. The "w" stands for winter, for starters. The oil viscosity, at room temperature, of a 0w is significantly more viscous than even a 0w50 when at operating temp. The two don't denote the same value. As in, a 0w does not share the same viscosity as a 0 weight at 100°C.



How synthetic multi viscosity grades work is to start with base oil. The winter rating is achieved by either using a less viscous base oil to have better cold flow properties, or "superior" synthetic base stock that flows better in severe temps. As the oil warms up, it's viscosity decreases even further. In order to maintain a rated viscosity (Xw20, Xw30, Xw40, etc), synthetic polymers (VII, or viscosity index improvers) are added to the oil. A 5w20 and 0w20 will perform the exact same at 100°C.


VII's are a two fold addition. They could offer superior protection (MOFT, or minimum oil film thickness) but can also shear. The more that are needed, the more shearing can occur. So a 5w20 will have less than a 0w20. A 10w30 is considered very stable, and a 0w50 can find itself down to a 0w40/30 as quickly as one track session.


Now where some misunderstanding comes in is the benefits of 0w20 to 5w20. At room temperature, there's virtually no difference or benefit to one over the other. The difference only matters beyond the limit the oil is rated for because our engines use positive displacement pumps. That means a 5w and 0w will have the same volumetric flow until around -30° C. Well, okay, there's a slight benefit. The pump has to work a bit more with the 5w which means a teensy bit worse gas mileage on cold starts.

I can muddy the waters even more. Several tests have proven that lower viscosity oils can provide better protection than more viscous oils depending on what parts of the engine we're dealing with, the engine speed, and load. Larger aluminum bearings can benefit from lower viscosity oils. Low tension piston rings can struggle to scrape off excess oil off of the cylinder walls of more viscous oils (the opposite of higher tension rings).

 

[Andy13186]

Castrol edge extended 5w30 is good I think, amsoil 0w30 is probably the best 30 weight oil. Some people have had good luck with pennzoil ultra platinum

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