Picked up a FRPP Track pack for my 2020 PP1 car.

[Dave2013M3]

Obviously there is a lot of parts in this pack I won't need as I already have a PP1 car. I got this kit for $800 and it was never installed and is basically new and I am going to use the Track springs and the FR3 struts and shocks. I am deciding whether or not to use the sways and just stick with the OEM bars and sell the track pack bars. Will the OEM PP1 bars not marry up well with the Track springs and shocks?

Dave

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[1 old racer]

They will bolt right up.But why not just put on the complete kit? They will complete the setup and you have already paid for them. installed that same kit on my 2018 not long after I got my car in 2018. and still love it. I did swap out the F.P. sway bars with a set of Steeda because the F.P bars did not have the bushing keepers on the bar like the newer F.P. bars do.

 

[Dave2013M3]

They will bolt right up.But why not just put on the complete kit? They will complete the setup and you have already paid for them. installed that same kit on my 2018 not long after I got my car in 2018. and still love it. I did swap out the F.P. sway bars with a set of Steeda because the F.P bars did not have the bushing keepers on the bar like the newer F.P. bars do.

Yea I just ordered the lateral sway locks

 

[1 old racer]

you will be happy with the results. I like a stiff track car feel and my wife doesnt. Something I need to tell you, you will notice a lot more bump steer with your set up (normal with a lowered S550 ). I would recommend a bump steer kit. I used the one from Steeda. After about 1000 miles my swaybar endlinks started poping, so I went ahead and got the steeda swaybar end links and the rear subframe brace. I have let it alone sense. Iam very happy with the way my car handles.

 

[DeepImpactCoyote15]

I would wait for someone to chime in on the rear sway bar, you may be better off with the PP bar. I'm not familiar with those springs but with other springs I've heard big bar up front and GT or PP in rear for some setups. I recommend on top of these mods doing a IRS upgrade like BMR CB005, upper rear shock mounts, rear lower control arm bearings, Roll Correction Kit (bumpsteer kit) mentioned above, Caster/Camber Plates and Vertical Links. I apologize if you didn't want to hear about spending more money

 

[Dave2013M3]

Yea I am not going over board. I just wanted to drop the car and was concerned about the springs and PP shocks and struts not matching up. I don't plan on going crazy with this thing. A 1" drop shouldn't even require a bumpsteer kit, its when you go beyond 1" that I would worry. If I have an issue with bumpsteer I will deal with it. I was going to do just the Steeda mimimal drop springs with the OEM PP1 struts/shocks and call it a day as the car looks like its on stilts. I got such a good deal on the FRPP kit I went ahead and got it. Its funny you call Steeda and you tell them you want their springs and they try to sell you another $3k worth of items.

 

[1 old racer]

A simple but effective way to set up your swaybars. Set the front sway bar to the corner flatness you like, I felt the center hole of the FP front bar is the best for aggressive street or canyon carving . Then adjust the rear to balance the car the way you like. The stiffer the rear the more oversteer you will get with a given front bar and the softer the rear bar the more understeer you will have. I had the rear of my FP rear bar on the stiffest or hole closest to the tube of the bar. I felt it gave me a tiny bit or oversteer when I exited the corners. I had stock pp1 wheel tire setup and O.E.M. alignment. Your results may very, but that what the adjustments are for. Remember no one will look under your car to see where you position the endlinks. More is not always better. It depends on you the driver and your car. if the bar feels to stiff to your liking go softer, if you like understeer then soften the the rear. Make the bars work for you not you for the bars

 

[Dave2013M3]

A simple but effective way to set up your swaybars. Set the front sway bar to the corner flatness you like, I felt the center hole of the FP front bar is the best for aggressive street or canyon carving . Then adjust the rear to balance the car the way you like. The stiffer the rear the more oversteer you will get with a given front bar and the softer the rear bar the more understeer you will have. I had the rear of my FP rear bar on the stiffest or hole closest to the tube of the bar. I felt it gave me a tiny bit or oversteer when I exited the corners. I had stock pp1 wheel tire setup and O.E.M. alignment. Your results may very, but that what the adjustments are for. Remember no one will look under your car to see where you position the endlinks. More is not always better. It depends on you the driver and your car. if the bar feels to stiff to your liking go softer, if you like understeer then soften the the rear. Make the bars work for you not you for the bars

Thanks so much for the advice!

 

[DeepImpactCoyote15]

Yea I am not going over board. I just wanted to drop the car and was concerned about the springs and PP shocks and struts not matching up. I don't plan on going crazy with this thing. A 1" drop shouldn't even require a bumpsteer kit, its when you go beyond 1" that I would worry. If I have an issue with bumpsteer I will deal with it. I was going to do just the Steeda mimimal drop springs with the OEM PP1 struts/shocks and call it a day as the car looks like its on stilts. I got such a good deal on the FRPP kit I went ahead and got it. Its funny you call Steeda and you tell them you want their springs and they try to sell you another $3k worth of items.

Oh I gotcha! Springs/shocks in general are great and a must, so you're going to feel a huge difference. I would say if I had to choose one thing out of that it'd be CB005 or anything similar . That is a great deal, half price from what I saw when I looked up what all comes in the kit before I responded. Oh man, they asked me my budget and they were reasonable to me when I reached out to them

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Install the bars. Once you drive the car a bit you’ll see the value in getting the roll-center and bump-steer kit—lowering the car makes the steering sloppy. The kit remedies this.

 

[SVO MkII]

I installed this on my 2018 EB PP car. It's a daily driver, but I do a half dozen HPDE events a year. If you have any aspirations of hitting the track, I would install the entire kit. All of the components were designed to work together, and they do. The car is way more fun to drive now, track and street. However, as others have noted, it is really pretty comfortable on the street too. My test for street comfort is whether or not my wife can fall asleep in the car. Yep, like a baby!

 

[Dave2013M3]

Hey guys just an update. Installed the suspension, the complete kit, other than the rear toe links as the PP package car already has them. I was going to install it with a buddy but wife was not willing to co-mingle due to Covid 19. I ended up having it installed by a shop here in Los Angeles that mainly works on Porshces, BMWs, Lambos's...well you get the point. The name of the shop in case anyone in Los Angeles wants to use them is Autotalent. They did a great job as I have used them before on my previous vehicles. I have been driving the car now for 2 days, waiting for the suspension to settle before I get an alignment. I do notice a tad more negative camber since the drop and love the way it looks. The previous vehicle which I owned new was a 2013 BMW M3 with the Comp Package (ZCP), to be honest the Mustang GT with the TrackPack is still softer than a BMW M3 ZCP car. The car only rides a tad stiffer than the PP1 suspension which was a pleasant surprise. Very happy I did this and extremely pleased. I am going to wash her and post up some pics. The drop in the front was more pronounced than the rear and it looks awesome with the wider and more aggressive rubber.

 

[Dave2013M3]

I installed this on my 2018 EB PP car. It's a daily driver, but I do a half dozen HPDE events a year. If you have any aspirations of hitting the track, I would install the entire kit. All of the components were designed to work together, and they do. The car is way more fun to drive now, track and street. However, as others have noted, it is really pretty comfortable on the street too. My test for street comfort is whether or not my wife can fall asleep in the car. Yep, like a baby!

Yea the ride is still pretty tame, firm but still pretty tame.

 

[SVO MkII]

I have been driving the car now for 2 days, waiting for the suspension to settle before I get an alignment. I do notice a tad more negative camber since the drop and love the way it looks.

FWIW...I took my car to the local Ford dealer for an alignment after I installed the kit. Instructions say -1.5/-2.0 f/r camber. Dealer called me said they were having a hard time getting that much neg camber, needed an extra tech to push on the wheels, going to cost extra(?). When they were done, I got -1.4/-1.5 front, -1.8/-2.1 rear...for $282 dollars. I won't be going back there, at least not for alignments. Make sure you find a shop that knows how to do performance oriented work on the S550.

 

[Dave2013M3]

FWIW...I took my car to the local Ford dealer for an alignment after I installed the kit. Instructions say -1.5/-2.0 f/r camber. Dealer called me said they were having a hard time getting that much neg camber, needed an extra tech to push on the wheels, going to cost extra(?). When they were done, I got -1.4/-1.5 front, -1.8/-2.1 rear...for $282 dollars. I won't be going back there, at least not for alignments. Make sure you find a shop that knows how to do performance oriented work on the S550.

Yes I know a good alignment ship that works on a lot of sports cars and does performance alignments.

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